Series 3 Please help series 3 problem

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JoeN

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Bury
Hi me and my dad have got a Land Rover series 3 1981 2.25 diesel, we been using her for a bit then didn't use for a week and when we went to start her she wouldn't start, after some digging around taking the rocker cover off we seen the push rods are all bent so we found out it was the timing chain that had broken and jumped a tooth, we removed the head of the engine replaced the timing chain and sprockets, check the Pistons move nicely and no scoring or damage and all looks well. Carried on to check the valves which also look fine so we replaced all the push rods and set the timing of the engine, set the valve clearances once engine was back together, replaced all heater plugs, bled the pump and injectors of fuel, put everything back together and tried to start. She won't start and we get white smoke out of the exhaust that smells of diesel.
We don't have a clue and are stuck why she won't start now and would really appreciate some advise.

Cheers
Joe
 
you sure it's all well and the timing is correct?.. as they can be sods to get correct

also, some can be right swines to get primed. mine, which admittedly was knackered and down on compression, needed a hell of a lot of cranking to get it going if i mucked with the fuel lines.
 
you sure it's all well and the timing is correct?.. as they can be sods to get correct

also, some can be right swines to get primed. mine, which admittedly was knackered and down on compression, needed a hell of a lot of cranking to get it going if i mucked with the fuel lines.


We got the timing set to the book and used a DTI gauge to set the exhaust port one as in book, could be that it needs more priming but we also have done a lot of priming and don't seem to be getting anywhere, we toke the rocker cover off and tried to run to check everything is moving okay and it all was moving just won't fire.
 
White smoke is unburnt diesel, probably your injector pump timing's off.

The Land Rover was runing fine before the timing chain snapped and we haven't touched the pump apart from priming ? Could it still be the timing of the pump if we haven't touched it ?
 
The Land Rover was runing fine before the timing chain snapped and we haven't touched the pump apart from priming ? Could it still be the timing of the pump if we haven't touched it ?
Congratulations on finding the limits of my knowledge! :D
All I know is that when I replaced my 200tdi pump, I had the same problem. The pump refurbisher told me to retard the timing a few degrees and it ran perfick.
 
Congratulations on finding the limits of my knowledge! :D
All I know is that when I replaced my 200tdi pump, I had the same problem. The pump refurbisher told me to retard the timing a few degrees and it ran perfick.

Haha thanks for your help will have to prob give it a try
 
If the chain was slack the pump timing may have been historically adjusted to make up for this slack. Having fitted a new chain you may need to re adjust the pump. Don't know if the pump timing can be out so far as to prevent starting though?
 
If the chain was slack the pump timing may have been historically adjusted to make up for this slack. Having fitted a new chain you may need to re adjust the pump. Don't know if the pump timing can be out so far as to prevent starting though?

Thanks we will have to have a look at adjusting the pump to see if that can make her start or at least try to fire by moving it slightly
 
isn't getting the pump in the right position part of doing the timing from scratch? then you fine tune once its up and running?

But if I haven't touched the pump and the engine was working fine before the timing chain went, just timing the engine basically because it has been taken apart and the chain snapped so it had to be done and if the timing was right before the chain snapped then the pump shouldn't need moving? because it should be in the correct position if you put everything else back into the right positions ?
 
that's what I am wondering, I need to do mine this summer.

the pump as land raver suggests will probably be in the correct position for an old stretched timing chain not a new unstretched one so would need to be re-set
 
did you set cam by dti and marking a point both sides of ep then finding the middle ie true ep ,then turn engine over to the injection marks on flywheel 13-14 degrees no1 piston coming up on compression , then fit skew gear with master spline 20 degrees to front pump securing stud
 
Yeah we did all that with the timing to get it all in the correct place and used a DTI, just not sure on this pump then with what people are saying maybe it could be in the wrong position now there is a new timing chain on.
 
Though the white smoke does sound like a timing issue.....

Maybe tow start it down the road.

+1 - We have occasionally had to do this. Sometimes, an "older" starter motor isn't up to the job of a first start after "surgery".... and a tow start will "make it have it" - sometimes, paralleling a second battery might just add enough kick, before the hassle of a tow.....
 
Though the white smoke does sound like a timing issue.....



+1 - We have occasionally had to do this. Sometimes, an "older" starter motor isn't up to the job of a first start after "surgery".... and a tow start will "make it have it" - sometimes, paralleling a second battery might just add enough kick, before the hassle of a tow.....

Cheers we will have to try and maybe adding a battery for extra power because that is a pain that the battery does always die while we try to start it a few times and it is a new one but and extra one might do it and if not then tow it and have a look at the timing of the pump,
Cheers
 
have you tried cranking engine over with all injector pips disconnected if it has a cav rotary pump they can some times be hard to prime
 
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