respray prep advice

farmershort · Mar 1, 2016

Hi All,

I can only apologise. I know this is one of those subjects where the info exist in a million forms on the web already, but there's also a whole load of differing opinions, and my god it make tedious reading!

I've got my compressor, my 6" DA air sander, some primer, thinners, and top coat.

I need to buy some sanding discs next... here's what I think I know so far:

wash panel all over to remove waxes
320 grit dry all over to cut the surface up for primer adhesion
1st coat of primer
400 grit (wet or dry? no clear answer here)
2nd coat of primer
600 grit (again, should it be wet or dry?)
layers of top coat
1500 (wet or dry?), 3000 (wet or dry?), then polishing pads and cutting compound?

obviously there's a few questions in there.... Interested to gather some experienced opinions and advice.

also obviously - I will etch-prime anything that is bare metal before beginning, but most things will be on original paint.

Thanks

Adam

EDIT: I have no idea if scotchbright should be part of the process, I've gather that it's some sort of spongey pad, but i dont know if it's like soft wire-brush, or more like a polishing pad which needs a compound.

Carrington224 · Mar 1, 2016

Using the wet and dry wet gives a far better job and lasts longer, using it dry it clogs up very quickly.

Lighthouse · Mar 1, 2016

good luck i always find getting a good finish is hard work

farmershort · Mar 1, 2016

Carrington224 said:
Using the wet and dry wet gives a far better job and lasts longer, using it dry it clogs up very quickly.

After your performance in the last thread of mine, you can keep your advice to yourself.

Carrington224 · Mar 1, 2016

Carrington224 said:
Using the wet and dry wet gives a far better job and lasts longer, using it dry it clogs up very quickly.

farmershort said:
After your performance in the last thread of mine, you can keep your advice to yourself.

Well thanks a lot britchy, I'll bet you get the same advice from others.

Discokids · Mar 1, 2016

I tend to;
Rub down with 180 - 240 dry. Preferably 180. Any filler needs 80 to key the surface and flat it down afterwards. 180 will float over filler instead of cutting straight through it. 120 is like a 1.6 petrol - stuck between two options and trying to do both but not making a great job of either. 320/400. Great finish but you will be there all week.
Then 2k primer.
Then Guide coat - any old ****e will do. 600 wet and dry (used wet, warm soapy water). Then as long as you haven't rubbed through you either;
Basecoat then 2k primer. If you want an extremely flat and shiny finish, wet flat with 2000, then buff with a machine, orange pad and 3G. Plenty of water.
Or, cellulose. Put on lots of coats, start light and work up to medium. Not much time between, say 10 minutes. Leave for about 4 weeks, then wet flat with 1200. Polish with either machine or by hand. If it clogs the paper it needs more time to dry.
Enamel. Not sure really, never used it. All paints can be used over 2k primer. Remember, 2k 'cures', like cement, even when left in a cup full of thinners it will cure at the bottom of the cup. Other paints 'dry'.

I'm no expert on painting, and don't do enough to know the correct terminology, although I am apprentice trained (years ago!) and have always painted my own and friends/customers projects. Other advice is available.

h4rri · Mar 1, 2016

W&D: Use wet if you are flatting ready for the next coat, dry is more aggressive but does clog quicker.

Scotch pads can be bought in big packs and I used them to key coat a standard panel ready for primer.

Get some panel wipe and lint free cloth.

Coffeelandy · Mar 1, 2016

farmershort said:
Hi All,

I can only apologise. I know this is one of those subjects where the info exist in a million forms on the web already, but there's also a whole load of differing opinions, and my god it make tedious reading!

I've got my compressor, my 6" DA air sander, some primer, thinners, and top coat.

I need to buy some sanding discs next... here's what I think I know so far:

wash panel all over to remove waxes
320 grit dry all over to cut the surface up for primer adhesion
1st coat of primer
400 grit (wet or dry? no clear answer here)
2nd coat of primer
600 grit (again, should it be wet or dry?)
layers of top coat
1500 (wet or dry?), 3000 (wet or dry?), then polishing pads and cutting compound?

obviously there's a few questions in there.... Interested to gather some experienced opinions and advice.

also obviously - I will etch-prime anything that is bare metal before beginning, but most things will be on original paint.

Thanks

Adam

EDIT: I have no idea if scotchbright should be part of the process, I've gather that it's some sort of spongey pad, but i dont know if it's like soft wire-brush, or more like a polishing pad which needs a compound.

Glad you posted this I'm about to retouch some bits on mine and it wasn't overly clear how this should be done. Definitely wet the wet and dry it causes the paint powderr you've rubbed off to turn into a a paste that creates a really good cutting surface.

Coffeelandy · Mar 1, 2016

farmershort said:
Hi All,

I can only apologise. I know this is one of those subjects where the info exist in a million forms on the web already, but there's also a whole load of differing opinions, and my god it make tedious reading!

I've got my compressor, my 6" DA air sander, some primer, thinners, and top coat.

I need to buy some sanding discs next... here's what I think I know so far:

wash panel all over to remove waxes
320 grit dry all over to cut the surface up for primer adhesion
1st coat of primer
400 grit (wet or dry? no clear answer here)
2nd coat of primer
600 grit (again, should it be wet or dry?)
layers of top coat
1500 (wet or dry?), 3000 (wet or dry?), then polishing pads and cutting compound?

I forgot to say get advice from these guys if you don't know them already.
https://www.paintman.co.uk/

obviously there's a few questions in there.... Interested to gather some experienced opinions and advice.

also obviously - I will etch-prime anything that is bare metal before beginning, but most things will be on original paint.

Thanks

Adam

EDIT: I have no idea if scotchbright should be part of the process, I've gather that it's some sort of spongey pad, but i dont know if it's like soft wire-brush, or more like a polishing pad which needs a compound.

Discokids · Mar 1, 2016

Scotchbrite is excellent for use on new panels and getting into nooks and crannies. You can get 6" discs that go on a drill. Lethal!!! Also hand held scotch combined with panel wipe will remove all your previous traces of wax etc.

farmershort · Mar 1, 2016

Ah some great stuff coming out of this. 2 points:

Does scotchbridge need a compound to work, or is it just a rough brush effect?

I'm not going anywhere near 2k... I'm using traditional enamel paint (as per Landrover apparently), from thepaintman.co.UK

Discokids · Mar 1, 2016

No, it's scouring pad, just in different colours. You can use it wet, dry, on its own, with panel wipe, inside, outside, upside down and inside out.

Tbh I considered enamel but didn't know enough about it at the time (still don't).

Is all your bodywork in good condition or are you doing major repairs?

farmershort · Mar 1, 2016

Bodywork is in "Solihull" condition... Let's face it, they come off the production line bent!

I'm getting a newer tdci rear tub, which eliminates any major repair work.

Carrington224 · Mar 1, 2016

farmershort said:
Bodywork is in "Solihull" condition... Let's face it, they come off the production line bent!

I'm getting a newer tdci rear tub, which eliminates any major repair work.

Awe! That's nice.

Marmaduke · Mar 1, 2016

@aaronmorris come on chap give us some pearls of wisdom

Discokids · Mar 1, 2016

So you can Use 240/Scotchbrite (in tight areas). What primer are you using?

farmershort · Mar 1, 2016

Discokids said:
So you can Use 240/Scotchbrite (in tight areas). What primer are you using?

Primer is a HB primer which the top coat supplier sells... To make sure it's suitable for the top coat.

Coffeelandy · Mar 1, 2016

farmershort said:
Ah some great stuff coming out of this. 2 points:

Does scotchbridge need a compound to work, or is it just a rough brush effect?

I'm not going anywhere near 2k... I'm using traditional enamel paint (as per Landrover apparently), from thepaintman.co.UK

He's got good "how to" stuff too.!

farmershort · Mar 2, 2016

so, in trying to piece together everything I've read so far, and the contributions above, this seems reasonable:

key the original paint with 180 grit - dry
primer, then guide coat (guide coat just to show you the high spots right?)
then depending on the finish - something between 320 to 600 - or perhaps 320 working up to 600? wet or dry - seems a point of debate.
then top coats, which need to be left to dry and rubbed down with something around 1200 ish wet

if I'm still not getting it, please chip in.

It seems as though this scotchbrite malarky is just the latest new thing, and something else to spend money on. If I can key with 180 paper, I suspect there's no point also buying scotchbright pads.

Discokids · Mar 2, 2016

You're getting there. Scotchbrite isn't a new thing, it's been around years. Buy a roll off ebay (red is best imho) as it has many other uses and is best for getting in tight spaces. You want absolutely no shine at all before you prime. If it's shiny the paint won't stick. Guide coat - yes, just shows up the uneven finish. A light coat like my roof below.

If your primer is thin then I'd suggest upping the initial rub-down to 240, so the scratches you are painting over and filling aren't as deep.

Your primer finish 320-600 depends on your paint of choice, which is Where knowledge ends as its enamel. Not sure what sort of key it needs. If you were using ordinary basecoat it would be 600. If it was silver, metallic etc then 800 would be better as a really fine silver pigment can sit in a 600 scratch and show up forever more. But irrelevant I know.

respray prep advice

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