Little advise needed please

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IamRobbie

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,800
Location
Derbyshire, j28 M1
After swapping the whole hub and axle end I gave the wheel a wobble holding the top and bottom of the wheel. It moved slightly so I'd guess the bearings are on the way out on these hubs or is there a chance I can nip the bearings up with a box spanner?
 
Front or rear, if it is the front then it could also be the swivel pin.
You would have adjusted the wheel-bearing when you fitted the hub, if it is correctly torqued up then over-tightening to get rid of wear is not really the way to go, if you left it too loose however then yes, you might adjust it out.
 
Front or rear, if it is the front then it could also be the swivel pin.
You would have adjusted the wheel-bearing when you fitted the hub, if it is correctly torqued up then over-tightening to get rid of wear is not really the way to go, if you left it too loose however then yes, you might adjust it out.
+1
 
I brought the whole hub. Only thing I've changed is the 7 14mm bolts and slid the whole hub and half shaft and cv exact out. New second hand one in. So I don't know the history of the hub ends.. If i get someone to hold the brake down whilst I try to lift the wheel with a bar this is swivel play?
 
I brought the whole hub. Only thing I've changed is the 7 14mm bolts and slid the whole hub and half shaft and cv exact out. New second hand one in. So I don't know the history of the hub ends.. If i get someone to hold the brake down whilst I try to lift the wheel with a bar this is swivel play?

Re: Looseness with brake locked: Yep, swivel play. I will lay long odds if you've not reset the bearings then the play could well be there.
 
Defender bearing's are just plain crap and need load's of care especially if off roaded in deep water/mud, the bloody thing's **** me off big time.
A little bit of play is acceptable, the same amount of play on a modern car would mean the bearing is shagged.
 
yeh i know buddy, i swapped the whole lot from an axle i dont know the history of, i should have left the drivers side alone as i did the bearing on that side not too long ago.

On pay day ive got to go paddocks with my shopping list so what I'm gonna do before then is check for any wear in the steering.
 
If you buy new bearing's get the timken one's much better than the elcheapo britpart one's.
Ive alway's found new defender bearings need adjusting after a few mile's and then again a few week's later.
 
Defender bearing's are just plain crap and need load's of care especially if off roaded in deep water/mud, the bloody thing's **** me off big time.
A little bit of play is acceptable, the same amount of play on a modern car would mean the bearing is shagged.
To be fair, most bearings don't much like being filled with water, mud, and grit.
Better too loose than too tight on the adjustment, I would think.

If you buy new bearing's get the timken one's much better than the elcheapo britpart one's.
Ive alway's found new defender bearings need adjusting after a few mile's and then again a few week's later.
Timken every time for me! :)
Think that is the same for most big bearings on machinery. They settle in a little bit over the first few runs.
 
Cheers. I'll grab a set. If i get time before pay day I'll see if tightening the current ones up work. It won't be driven till next month anyway as it's not a daily driver thank God lol. God to get the old track rod ends out and put new in that hd bar I have then try and get it roughly back in line. Sadly the nights are drawing in again so come 7pm when I finish work I can't be bothered to do anything.
 
Cheers. I'll grab a set. If i get time before pay day I'll see if tightening the current ones up work. It won't be driven till next month anyway as it's not a daily driver thank God lol. God to get the old track rod ends out and put new in that hd bar I have then try and get it roughly back in line. Sadly the nights are drawing in again so come 7pm when I finish work I can't be bothered to do anything.
What I do with the steering bar is to pop the tapers off the tres, then I take the whole bar into the workshop. and put it upside down on the bench. I then take a marker pen, and draw round the ends on the bench top. So if I mess up counting turns or measuring, I can put the bar down on the drawing, and I get the exact length of the old bar! No need to mess around trying to get the tracking back! :)
 
Old standard bar is in the shape of a banana. New bar is a second hand hd bar from a friend so plan was to set new threads in HD bar the same as the threads on the old banana one.
 
Should work, so long as the aftermarket bit is exactly the same length as the original.

That was my thinking. I think I need to take a good look at the front end of the truck. Check bearings swivels ect, wind out the bump stops ect ect. The other axle was beautiful until I destroyed it. The diff I took out looked brand new but I've put my front arb locking diff in now.
 
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