Disco 1 Getting desperate

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marty_b

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Right still can't get my disco going its a 98 R plate 300tdi auto with immobiliser problem can get the starter motor working but won't fire up I have tried running a cable from the whitehead on ignition to solonoid WHERE wire is spliced. And it clicks then sounds like it's pumping and clicks again. But the noise continues. Am I doing something wrong I desperately need this going now as it's stuck in my works car park. Also what's the other big plug for


 
Run a live feed to the fuel solenoid on the pump. If it fires and runs and seems ok then there is a power feed problem. If that does not work, remove the solenoid, see if it runs then, but because it's an auto take care.
Normally you'd stall it to stop the engine, which is not going to be easy on an auto.
The other way to stop any engine is to block the air intake. A bit of sheet steel put over the turbo intake will stop any engine or a blast from a CO2 extinguisher.
 
Will diagnostics help this guy?

I have little experience of EDC - I took it off my D1, But diagnostics should be able to at least see the immobiliser problem, if there is one ??
 
Disco1BFG said:
Will diagnostics help this guy?

I have little experience of EDC - I took it off my D1, But diagnostics should be able to at least see the immobiliser problem, if there is one ??
Click to expand...

D1s security system isn't monitored, therefore how does diagnose any immobiliser issues it may have?
Even after 17 years of ownership I'm interested on things I may have missed. :)
 
Speckydude said:
Run a live feed to the fuel solenoid on the pump. If it fires and runs and seems ok then there is a power feed problem. If that does not work, remove the solenoid, see if it runs then, but because it's an auto take care.
Normally you'd stall it to stop the engine, which is not going to be easy on an auto.
The other way to stop any engine is to block the air intake. A bit of sheet steel put over the turbo intake will stop any engine or a blast from a CO2 extinguisher.
Click to expand...

I have a 1989 Passat that I've fitted a tdi 1900 engine & similar engine management from a mk3 golf tdi (uses bosch system / fly-by-wire as on 300tdi D1 auto??)

in december it refused to start so I tried all kinds including +12v to the stop solenoid on the injection pump, still wouldnt start :mad:

fault code reader later said that it was the solenoid so I changed it (10 mins job, had a spare as they are about £7 :cool:)

Bearmach Land Rover Range Rover 1 Fuel Stop Cut Off Solenoid Switch RTC6702
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261598255781?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
£6.94:cool:

you can take the solenoid from the pump (24mm spanner for body & 8mm for wire, carefull as there is an 'O' ring in there & a spring on top of the plunger?) then remove it's plunger & re-fit the solenoid body then see if it starts up & runs, to stop the engine you should be able to use the ignition key as normal as the ecu will drop the fueling & timing to stall the engine - the solenoid is supposed to be a left-over from older pumps & a 'last-resort' to stop running o_O

hopefully something like that anyway :cool:

Rich.
 
Zed. said:
I have a 1989 Passat that I've fitted a tdi 1900 engine & similar engine management from a mk3 golf tdi (uses bosch system / fly-by-wire as on 300tdi D1 auto??)

in december it refused to start so I tried all kinds including +12v to the stop solenoid on the injection pump, still wouldnt start :mad:

fault code reader later said that it was the solenoid so I changed it (10 mins job, had a spare as they are about £7 :cool:)

Bearmach Land Rover Range Rover 1 Fuel Stop Cut Off Solenoid Switch RTC6702
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261598255781?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
£6.94:cool:

you can take the solenoid from the pump (24mm spanner for body & 8mm for wire, carefull as there is an 'O' ring in there & a spring on top of the plunger?) then remove it's plunger & re-fit the solenoid body then see if it starts up & runs, to stop the engine you should be able to use the ignition key as normal as the ecu will drop the fueling & timing to stall the engine - the solenoid is supposed to be a left-over from older pumps & a 'last-resort' to stop running o_O

hopefully something like that anyway :cool:

Rich.
Click to expand...

Not quite that easy .. 300Tdi has a tamperproof solenoid. It _can_ be replaced but it's probably easiest to remove the injector pump to do it properly. I just did mine recently and basically brute-forced it off .. which caused further issues like a bent idling screw and other things .. but once it's off, the solenoid above will then work .. You just need a live feed either direct from battery to test it, or an ignition switch live feed when it starts running properly .. ;)
 
Right I have been on this all morning tried everything pump is making all the right noises but no fuel getting to injectors at all. So am I right in thinking it's the stop solonoid not working
 
Id say it's more than likely, I'm not sure what else you got left to try, once the fuel is getting to the injectors, and no further, likely culprit stop solenoid, take your time doing it can sometimes be awkward and a pain in the ass,but with patience easily doable, good luck,
Ge'ez
 
Not necessarily ... My 90 had summat very similar to this and it was simple, petrol supply pipe off at the tank and lift pump, a hefty blow (don't suck) from the lift pump end with the diesel tank end pointed AWAY from whoever's watching/holding it and the ****e suddenly shot out, so our lass says, like a long lump of snot, then diesel then air ...

We figured, that when I was hand pumping the lift, it was pulling enough through to start, but couldn't pull enough through to keep it running.
 
Can you take the plunger out of the solenoid to try it?
You say the pump is making the right noises, do you get a buzzing from the quantity solenoid doing it's thing when the ignition is on?

If you open the filter bleed when cranking, is it pulsing fuel out?

If you crack an injector line, is it fuelling?

Paul D said:
Not quite that easy .. 300Tdi has a tamperproof solenoid. It _can_ be replaced but it's probably easiest to remove the injector pump to do it properly. I just did mine recently and basically brute-forced it off .. which caused further issues like a bent idling screw and other things .. but once it's off, the solenoid above will then work .. You just need a live feed either direct from battery to test it, or an ignition switch live feed when it starts running properly .. ;)
Click to expand...

Not tamper proof on the EDC models.
I believe the immobiliser affects the engine management so it doesn't really need the stop solenoid as a security feature, unlike the mechanical pump ones where all they need is 12v to the solenoid.
 
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