L322 Range Rover Dead

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DISCO2RS4

Active Member
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190
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Aberdeen
Im just back from an 8 day trip and both keys for the range rover don't work? I can unlock the drivers door but ignition wont turn, just solid. it wont unlock or lock with both keys either. Any ideas? is this always going to happen after short trips as im away with work quite often, its had a new battery and a new alternator its a 2002 4.4 v8

Thanks
 
Have you changed the batteries in the keys lately or had the back/covers off??

Inside the key is a small bit of plastic...well it looks like plastic, but this is the transponder for the ignition coil to tell it that it is the right key and to unlock the steering lock and re-mobilse the engine.

What voltage level do you have on the car battery, just because it is new doesn't mean that a mysterious power leak on the car hasn't drained it already!
 
I have left mine for two weeks and it started fine, although i did get a bong of HDC inactive which means it had lost a bit of charge.
There are dozens of threads on here regarding current drain.
I think the most common suspects are headlight wipers not parking and HEVAC final stage resistor but check you battery as Saint says
 
Thanks for the replies, I jump started it and its up and running, went for a long run and is working fine just now at the moment, ill grab a multimeter and check the battery before I go to bed tomorrow and then again in the morning see how any volts its lost
 
Whats the procedure for disconnecting the the battery? wait 2min for the systems to shut down? im planning on doing a drainage test fault find etc this weekend

Thanks
 
Thats pretty much it, extract from rave below
You need to be really careful as if you connect the battery and then unintentionally disconnect it for a second the sat nav can die.

I found the article on testing battery drain on cars with ECU's but have never tried it myself.
There is a gadget called a fuse buddy that some have used whereby you replace the fuse with the tool and it tells you if there is a current flowing.
http://randysrepairshop.net/testing-for-battery-drain.html


Battery disconnection
It is imperative that the key is removed from the
ignition before disconnecting the battery. A time of 2
minutes must also elapse before disconnection.
Failure to do so could result in:
l Navigation computer hardware damage
l Incorrect fuel gauge reading
Before disconnecting the battery, disable the alarm
system and switch off all electrical equipment. If the
radio is to be serviced, ensure the security code has
been deactivated.
CAUTION: Never disconnect the battery with the
ignition switched on.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the navigation
computer hardware, a waiting period of two
minutes must elapse after the ignition is
switched off before the battery leads are
disconnected.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to electrical
components, always disconnect the battery
when working on the vehicle's electrical system.
The ground lead must be disconnected first and
reconnected last.
CAUTION: Always ensure that battery leads are
routed correctly and are not close to any
potential chafing points.
 
Thanks Busakaz and Holidaychicken

Does any one know how much milliamps is drawn from the battery in normal conditions when its parked up with the key out?
 
Last edited:
Thats pretty much it, extract from rave below
You need to be really careful as if you connect the battery and then unintentionally disconnect it for a second the sat nav can die.

I found the article on testing battery drain on cars with ECU's but have never tried it myself.
There is a gadget called a fuse buddy that some have used whereby you replace the fuse with the tool and it tells you if there is a current flowing.
http://randysrepairshop.net/testing-for-battery-drain.html


Battery disconnection
It is imperative that the key is removed from the
ignition before disconnecting the battery. A time of 2
minutes must also elapse before disconnection.
Failure to do so could result in:
l Navigation computer hardware damage
l Incorrect fuel gauge reading
Before disconnecting the battery, disable the alarm
system and switch off all electrical equipment. If the
radio is to be serviced, ensure the security code has
been deactivated.
CAUTION: Never disconnect the battery with the
ignition switched on.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the navigation
computer hardware, a waiting period of two
minutes must elapse after the ignition is
switched off before the battery leads are
disconnected.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to electrical
components, always disconnect the battery
when working on the vehicle's electrical system.
The ground lead must be disconnected first and
reconnected last.
CAUTION: Always ensure that battery leads are
routed correctly and are not close to any
potential chafing points.

how is the alarm system disabled?

That's a great link
Take it ill need something like the blue jumper to allow the computers to shut down?
 
All it means 'disable the alarm system; is to have the car unlocked....

I have not needed to disable anything when disconnecting the battery in my L322....be mindful, that on each opening and closing of doors and tail/bonnet will re-awaken the Sat Nav again, so best to open boot and remove the side trim, then open bonnet and monitor the Sat Nav lamp...once it is out you can then disconnect the battery....some have checked the Sat Nav, then opened the bonnet to disconnect the battery not realising the act of opening the door and the bonnet has woken it up again!
 
Excellent advice Saint!
Ill have to keep everything connected first though to check I actually have a battery drainage problem? then pull the navigation fuse first and leave it out if im going to be opening doors?
 
There are a few good videos on youtube showing how they test for the drain and then pull each fuse in turn but as Saint says, this could then trigger the system to wake up again when you replace the fuse. You can clamp / tape the bonnet pin switch down so it thinks it it's still closed so you can probably do the same to the doors and tailgate so you haven't got to worry about opening and closing doors either waking up the system or causing a drain
 
There are a few good videos on youtube showing how they test for the drain and then pull each fuse in turn but as Saint says, this could then trigger the system to wake up again when you replace the fuse. You can clamp / tape the bonnet pin switch down so it thinks it it's still closed so you can probably do the same to the doors and tailgate so you haven't got to worry about opening and closing doors either waking up the system or causing a drain
Can't tape up the door or tailgate sensors andy, they are integral to the lock mechanisms.

Be also mindful that some fuses if removed will cause you grief, chiefly the ones for the security and imobiliser ECUs and also the BCU....removing the BCU fuse(s) will set the alarm off!
 
i didn't think i had seen the door switches, my bugger wont even start if i disconnect the battery hence the faultmate to reprogram the link to the immob/engine but i think that's almost a unique problem to me as mine likes to be 'special'
 
Can't tape up the door or tailgate sensors andy, they are integral to the lock mechanisms.

Be also mindful that some fuses if removed will cause you grief, chiefly the ones for the security and imobiliser ECUs and also the BCU....removing the BCU fuse(s) will set the alarm off!

Easiest way round is to open the door and latch the mechanism with a screw driver and watch the light go out.
 
I've latched all the required doors plus the bonnet, waited the couple minutes for the sat nav to shut down then disconnected the battery, fitted the jumper between the negative post and clamp and waited for the systems to shut down, changed multimeters (just in case the first one was dodgy) and still reading 1.10a of draw, unplugged the sat nav unit from inside the boot and I'm now down to 215Ma of current. So sat nav deffo a problem but there must be something else as standard drainage should be 50Ma when left over night unless someone else can confirm?
 
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