Valve stem and tire fit question

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

wrickm

Active Member
Posts
106
Location
Virginia, USA
I am replacing my tires/tyres with some nice fenderal 235/85 r16's i got. These are replacing the tubed 7.5's. My tire fitter seemed to think the tire will fit fine being tubeless but mentioned i needed larger valve stems than what he carries. A little research show 5/8ths or .625 should be what i need, Can anyone confirm all of this for me before i run out?
 
I have not got a bare rim to measure but size sounds about right. My concern would be suitability of series rims with tubeless tyres. I have always run them with tubes fitted, hence the bigger valve stem size.
 
I am replacing my tires/tyres with some nice fenderal 235/85 r16's i got. These are replacing the tubed 7.5's. My tire fitter seemed to think the tire will fit fine being tubeless but mentioned i needed larger valve stems than what he carries. A little research show 5/8ths or .625 should be what i need, Can anyone confirm all of this for me before i run out?

Sounds like you are trying to make a tube rim into a tubeless rim. Valve stem hole gives it all away
 
I am replacing my tires/tyres with some nice fenderal 235/85 r16's i got. These are replacing the tubed 7.5's. My tire fitter seemed to think the tire will fit fine being tubeless but mentioned i needed larger valve stems than what he carries. A little research show 5/8ths or .625 should be what i need, Can anyone confirm all of this for me before i run out?

True, but i had been told that the tubeless rim could accommodate the tubeless tire. Possibly i misunderstood. i am thick like that.

Your first post sounds as if they are tube rims.

Go to NAPA or a tire city shop, or another national parts store. Or even a agricultural store
 
If the rims are riveted together instead of welded then you should fit inner tubes. You can do that fine with most tubeless tyres so long as anything that might pop the inner tube is removed (large bits of mold overrun and stickers). You need to find a tyre shop that knows about Land Rovers - maybe not so easy in the States? Until quite recently Land Rover fitted tubeless tyres to tubed rims with a tube.

I've seen plenty of people that run tubeless on tube rims but it is a risk as the bead-holder is not really designed for it.

This is what I have been told by the local tyre man - he's a well respected agricultural / Land Rover / 4x4 specialist (and charges accordingly). He says the main problem with putting tubes in tubeless tyres he's seen is fitters leaving stickers on the inside which tend to rub on the tubes and cause them to fail.

Personally I prefer tubes - last set of tubeless tyres with tubes never needed any air except when I'd deliberately let it out to get out of mud and I could let them right down to do that without losing a tyre.
 
I am replacing my tires/tyres with some nice fenderal 235/85 r16's i got. These are replacing the tubed 7.5's. My tire fitter seemed to think the tire will fit fine being tubeless but mentioned i needed larger valve stems than what he carries. A little research show 5/8ths or .625 should be what i need, Can anyone confirm all of this for me before i run out?

Can't help with the valves, although never an issue in the UK.

But do check your rims are tubeless rims. It has nothing to do with rivets or about looking air tight. It's about if the tyre bead will stay seated or not.

It's really obvious which is which:


The tubed is on the right. Note after the outer flange, the main parts of the inner rim are completely smooth and flat.

The rim on the left has an extra bulge, this bulge/lip is there to stop the tyre bead moving towards the centre of the rim. Something that could happen bumping a curb, pot hole or off road. Or even under cornering.

If you fit tubeless tyres with no tube to the rims on the right, you run the risk of the tyre deflating instantly with the tyre coming off the rim. More likely to happen at high speed and could be very dangerous.


You can run tubeless tyres on tubed rims fine, but you must still put a tube in them.
 
Last edited:
If the rims are riveted together instead of welded then you should fit inner tubes. You can do that fine with most tubeless tyres so long as anything that might pop the inner tube is removed (large bits of mold overrun and stickers). You need to find a tyre shop that knows about Land Rovers - maybe not so easy in the States? Until quite recently Land Rover fitted tubeless tyres to tubed rims with a tube.

I've seen plenty of people that run tubeless on tube rims but it is a risk as the bead-holder is not really designed for it.

This is what I have been told by the local tyre man - he's a well respected agricultural / Land Rover / 4x4 specialist (and charges accordingly). He says the main problem with putting tubes in tubeless tyres he's seen is fitters leaving stickers on the inside which tend to rub on the tubes and cause them to fail.

Personally I prefer tubes - last set of tubeless tyres with tubes never needed any air except when I'd deliberately let it out to get out of mud and I could let them right down to do that without losing a tyre.

Nothing to do with land rover. A tube rim is a tube rim simple. What he needs to do is either put tubes in them new tires or buy new rims to fit, which will be very easy to find in the states. Best choice is buy new rims, which would cost about the same as new tubes, but with much less problems down the road
 
Just measured an old rim I have and its a tad over 15mm so TR415 should be right...you have to snap em into place you know.

I have run my tubeless tyres at quite low pressure and never had one come of the rim....run them for years as lot of other Landrover guys do...not a prob.

Nick.
 
Nick
I have purchased some from your link for my modular wheels.
Hole in wheel 15.45mm old valve stem 17.11mm new valve stem 18.94mm .
Look good to me.
IMG_1232.JPG

IMG_1233.JPG
Doug
 
Back
Top