Hello!

Hi,

Apologies if I have posted this to the wrong place, new to forum.

So first Hello! Looking forward to learning lots about my Land Rover Defender and hopefully going to a meet!

I currently have Land Rover ( 1985) 90 2.5 and It looks like I’ve got some Jobs I instantly need to do.

First on my jobs will be cleaning up the rust on the chassis, ive read a lot about this and it seems the best choice is a wire brush on a disc cutter, go to town, then get some good hammerite metal paint on there.

My main concern at the moment is when turning full lock I am getting a very loud clicking noise. It was suggested it could be my wheel bearings, but since I’ve just started playing around with my first Landy, I was hoping for some suggestions?

Also, as stupid as this may sound, if im driving on road a lot, where should my gear stick be on the 4x4. I don’t want to play around with it too much, but it seems like it should have more pull on road. And when I went use it off road, it sruggle to pull a truck out the mud, when another pickup done it with ease.

Sorry for all the questions and again if this should be somewhere else, please let me know!

I look forward to your responses.

:welcome2:

Hubs/Swivels could be on there way out. Mine are about to fail and that happens to mine on full lock. How does the steering feel?

The Defender is permanent 4 wheel drive, theres no stick to activate it.

Off road generally 2nd gear lo-range. The little gearstick should be clicked into the 'lo' position. Left will activate the central diff lock which forces 50% power to the front 50% power to the rear. Others will explain this better!

Bankz you an absolute diamond! Very helpful!
The steering definitely is not right; it’s got a hell of a lot of give.
To confirm, when I’m on road, should the stick be in lo position when on or off road?

Thanks in advance.

Hi and diff lock off for road use. Lo when off road (don't always need lo off road) diff lock on as and when needed.

Thanks Chris!

If your steering is wayward then I would say the swivels need rebuilding/replacing.

Theres some info in here that should help regarding that -

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/much-do-advice-many-things-required-268769.html

Hi - Road Use
Lo - Off Road
Diff Lock - Off Road

Well this is concerning that I've definitely not been driving in Hi!

Cheers mate.

bankz5152 said:

Hi - Road Use
Lo - Off Road
Diff Lock - Off Road - in wet / slippy conditions - a lot of the time you won't need diff lock off road.

Click to expand...

Amended

JonnyRae said:

Well this is concerning that I've definitely not been driving in Hi!

Cheers mate.

Click to expand...

haha... max speed in low ratio is 40mph really and you'll be changing gear continuously up to 5th.

You'll get the hang of it all though Welcome

Bump, your not wrong there mate, I was in 5th by time I got off the bloody farm!

I was wondering why I couldn't get passed lorrys on the bypass. 45Mph was my Max.

Another Questiion Bankz - What happens if the damage continues with the Swivels?

Cheers lads

Thanks

I thing the wheels fall off lol

honestly not sure, steering will get worse and vague for sure, massive vibration, possible half shaft/diff damage i imagine

You don't need to use low gear ratio off road, sometimes you might , sometimes you might not.
You don't need diff lock off road either, unless the conditions call for it.

Never use diff lock on the road or on hard ground, your transfer box wont like it and you might damage something.

Make sure the diff lock light on the dash is working so you have a visual aid.

bankz5152 said:

Thanks

I thing the wheels fall off lol

honestly not sure, steering will get worse and vague for sure, massive vibration, possible half shaft/diff damage i imagine

Click to expand...

sorry to ask are the swivels the same design as the series landies

as I got notching in the driving and also learnt that I could shim the steering box

don't know of course how it compares to a fender

I expect similar. Though you shim the swivels not the bearings.

You can but its like a plaster for a broken leg.

I shimmed mine and it only gave me 2 months/ 500ish miles before it went alll wayward again.

From what i've read its not a difficult job if your good around a spanner. Bout 2.5 hours a side.

Was quoted £200 - £240 labour from a garage.

I bought all parts needed for both sides for about £150 doing it myself with a mate

Think im there with the massive vibration (only when i get past 45 Mbps) and vague steering! Im assuming this is not a cheap job if i wanted it done in the shop?

A pinging noise on full lock could be the CV joints. If it sounds like metal balls pinging around a cage then I'd put my money on that.

Could be wheel bearings, but less likely if you notice it most on full lock, you can check by jacking up the vehicle and rocking the wheel.

It's all quite simple to do yourself and if your taking the axel to bits might as well replace the lot.

OK if you want to go for the expensive bits first!

However, remember that you have 3 track rod ends and a drop arm link, so check them for play first. Also check for backlash in the steering box.

Then jack up the front end and see what play there is at each of the front wheels, and if you find some, then sort it out cheaply and simply ... unless you want someone else to get their hands dirty in return for wadges of your cash!