Revs stay high on gearchange

Every so often, and its happening more often, when I change gear in my TD5 non-facelift, the revs dont drop. Feels a bit like when you drive wearing wellies and cock up your footwork. I have done a bit of searching on here and come up with mention of a diesel control switch (abou £20). There was also mention of a sticky potentiometer? It doesnt seem to do it if I rev the engine when standing still in neutral.

Not the clutch slipping?

steveyorks said:

Every so often, and its happening more often, when I change gear in my TD5 non-facelift, the revs dont drop. Feels a bit like when you drive wearing wellies and cock up your footwork. I have done a bit of searching on here and come up with mention of a diesel control switch (abou £20). There was also mention of a sticky potentiometer? It doesnt seem to do it if I rev the engine when standing still in neutral.

Click to expand...

my money is on the clutch(diesel control) switch see this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2019724-post2.html and description in the attachment, what's to be added is that on facelift modells it's not fitted as in the description but to the bottom of the clutch master cylinder, the rest is the same

I agree. Another vote for the clutch switch.

Deffo not clutch slipping. What kind of a job is it to do? I have ordered one from ebay so will blame you all if its not right! For £20 I will be made up if it sorts it and if it doesnt well its not a lot lost.

it's piece of cake, unplug, unscrew the old one and screw in the new one just move with talent to not loose much fluid

Cheers for that. I will have a bash when new part arrives and let you know!

Got the part and can disconnect the electronic plug but the thing wont unscrew and Im worried it will twist the pipes and shear one off. Called local landy specialist who says if you are not ceraful you can lose the clutch as it lets air into the system and it needs bleeding.

as long as you dont touch the pedal and the tank is full i dont see any reason for air to get in as fluid will come out by gravity... and if in the unlikely case that air gets in the system is bleedable... imo you have to fix it one way or another... that switch can be tested with diagnostic equipment even with multimeter so at least make sure it's at fault before you remove it... grab it's 'housing' with mole grips or something while you try to unscrew it

Oddly after I soaked it in WD40 to prepare it for taking off it has been behaving itself so perhaps some water on the connection? It will get swapped anyway seeing as I have the part but saves me braving the snow to do it.