AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHH Just start!!

Aaaagggggghhhh Just Start!

The story thus far;

Before X-mas had minor starting problems, it would start then die three sec later, but it would always go again almost straight after.

Problem got worse, I left the car for 48hrs at work, it started then 3 secs later died, I tried the purge process, checked all the fuses all ok. I killed the battery trying to start so I came back the following day armed with some jump leads and some easy start. Hooked it up and she fired up fine 3rd attempt so I left her running on elevated revs for 30 minutes.

Four hours later went back and wouldn't start again! Tried to jump and nothing so had to get her trailer'd home. RAC hooked it up to diagnostics and reported two pages of faults, he tried to delete and they re-occurred then it lost signal all together. This made me believe it is ECU related.

Things i have checked;
ECU; there was oil in the red plug so gave it a complete clean out and installed a new injector harness and rocker cover seal.

Fuel Filter; Installed new fuel filter.

Battery; Charged the battery seemed ok, however is only rated to 640Amps?

The fuel pump whines and changes pitch as the Glow plugs go out and I can hear fuel transiting the lines, the purge process runs ok.

I'm lost, and now at the stage where I need to take it to a LR specialist, to that end does anyone have any idea's or knowledge mechanic recommendations, I'm located in Yeovil and happy to pay, I just ant it running.

The only things I can think of is maybe the Injector seals? but I do not have a puller and I've been warned about levering them out, I'm going to try a new battery this week (got an Odesey on order)

Take the cover off the ECU and see if oil has got inside.

On some versions oil can get inside and cause all manner of issues.
The lid is held on with four screws, and a bead of sealant. You need to (obviously) remove the screws, then carefully prise off the cover, being careful not to damage it.

I'll give it a try - I didn't think oil would be able in ingress inside the actual ECU - If it is "infected" will it be a new ECU. I was contemplating a new "Chipped" plug and play ECU from Ebay.

Also a couple of people have suggested a new battery? although I have tried starting with a jump and it made little difference. I put a Voltmeter in the cigarette lighter and it read 11.4 to start then after a few turns it has reduced to 10.6.

Even with the Jump i only got high 11's.

Will the immobilizer kick in if not enough 'V's are present?

tomwelham said:

I'll give it a try - I didn't think oil would be able in ingress inside the actual ECU - If it is "infected" will it be a new ECU. I was contemplating a new "Chipped" plug and play ECU from Ebay.

Also a couple of people have suggested a new battery? although I have tried starting with a jump and it made little difference. I put a Voltmeter in the cigarette lighter and it read 11.4 to start then after a few turns it has reduced to 10.6.

Even with the Jump i only got high 11's.

Will the immobilizer kick in if not enough 'V's are present?

Click to expand...

Solvent brake cleaner with it disconnected

Check the battery voltage at the battery it should be 12.5v approx. 11v will not spin a diesel over fast enough

Td5 needs at least 10.5 volt for the ecu to allow the injectors to fire, try a new battery as td5 is sensitive to low voltage

Awesome guys;

This is all great info; thank you all for your help, I've got a new Battery on order, if that doesn't cure it, ill open up the ECU.

Nobody thinks its the injector seals then??


on another note; I might stick a chipped ECU in her from EBay anyone got any thoughts on this?

see link;
Land Rover Discovery / Defender TD5 ECU with performance chip (msb) plug & play | eBay

I'm going to check the above but does anyone think it could be injector seal? and if so are they difficult to change without an puller

Never done it myself but have a read of this

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f67/td5-injector-seals-206864.html

It's possible to do the injector seals without the proper tool, done mine...but the sympoms don't sound like leaking seals. Lots of smoke and running on a bit was what mine was doing when the the copper seals were letting by.
Mike.

i use a small heel bar
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&a...vice=c&icep_msku_flag=n&icep_cbt=n&adtype=pla

Cheer for that Mike, It's more difficult that I imagined trying to decifer problems on the TD5.

jamesmartin said:

i use a small heel bar
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&a...vice=c&icep_msku_flag=n&icep_cbt=n&adtype=pla

Click to expand...

There ok for that price!

Cheers for that gents, If the battery doesnt help i'll look at that next. I emailed LR garage in Yeovil to ask how much to change the Injector Seals - I could laugh, quoted me £38 Parts (fair enough) but 3 hours labour £360 + Diagnostics £120

total price to just change the Injector Seals £518! lol

Quick question; If I did have a naff battery would I still be able to start it using a jump start from jump start pack rated to 3ltr engines?

My engeneering collegue at work said I wouldnt be able to start it becuase the prime battery would essentially absorb the power of the jump pack thus the power being used to turn the engine would be less than required.

This kind of made sense but wanted to check your guys opinions?

Yes you would be able to jump it...

I had a 3ltr toyota surf with two batteries. id leave it here for months while back in uk and the batteries would be dead when i came back over. I had a clarke jump start battery from machine mart and once connected and left for a couple of minutes with ign on, it fired up first turn.