Drinking oil

Mine loses about 1/2 litre every couple hundred miles, but it comes out the bottom when hot im sure!

No smoke to speak of.

Are you sure it's not leaking at all?!

Although I must say at 110k a rover v8 has every chance of being well past its sell by date so you may just have to rebore and be happy

Cheers Sam

No leaks externally at all.

I should've bought a Shogun

It's rock and a hard place with the D2, all the engine options are troublesome one way or another.

Ok, so I ring the garage this morning to ask why they didn't call me yesterday with prices.

The guy says he hasn't had time, and waffled on about it not being an easy or quick fix and that it was going to expensive.... I then said that there was no issue with any of that, but would it be possible to check the car out for rust as if its sound I'll go full steam ahead, but if theres any rust I'll cut my losses. He then goes on in a real negative manner that he's going to have to put the car back on the ramp to check and thats not going to be immediate... bla bla bla...

Anyway, I've told him that as he has no interest in doing anything with the car I will pick it up within 24 hours.

The garage is Lingley Autos at Gemini in Warrington.

Avoid like the plague.

Have you just bought the car from these guys by the way?

worth changing the oil to 20W50 and see how it goes?

Mr Noisy said:

Have you just bought the car from these guys by the way?

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No, I bought the car from another crook in Leeds.

trax said:

worth changing the oil to 20W50 and see how it goes?

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Interesting. What would the benefit of this be?

ATD said:

Interesting. What would the benefit of this be?

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it's thicker, so if the engines worn it might not get past the seals/rings as much.

if you are going to scrap the engine/run into the ground, then might be worth as a temp fix

trax said:

it's thicker, so if the engines worn it might not get past the seals/rings as much.

if you are going to scrap the engine/run into the ground, then might be worth as a temp fix

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Nice one. I'll give that a go.

I tell you what we use at work with great success on bad burners/smokers

Wynn's oil treatment

It's basically glue in a can

Get it from Halfords, two tins of that and fill her up with fresh 20w50, if that don't slow it down I think you've got a hole in a piston

id agree with that, same engine more or less designed to run on 20w50 all those years ago so thin stuff not so great for them now especially with a lot of miles on them.

Mr Noisy said:

I tell you what we use at work with great success on bad burners/smokers

Wynn's oil treatment

It's basically glue in a can

Get it from Halfords, two tins of that and fill her up with fresh 20w50, if that don't slow it down I think you've got a hole in a piston

Click to expand...

Nice one.

I seem to remember checking the specs for halfords classic 20w50 and deciding it was ****. Many including myself use valvoline 20w50 vr1 but may work out expensive in your case. Check the api or acea oil spec in your manual

Halfords classic is ****.

I used to use comma sonic but it has morphed into comma x-flow

Lots of zinc and phosphorus content

Valvoline is a good shout but personally I prefer old fashioned mineral

Have they changed sonic then Sam? I bought loads so I've not got any for a while. Did u check the specs for zinc?

They have ditched sonic and rebranded

I **** myself cos I thought they'd ditched it all together, but it has been replaced with a similar item

The zinc and phosphorus levels were high so it's the same stuff

Found out some info though whilst I was digging

Car oils have the metal contents limited and sonic is nearly on the limits, but motorcycle oils have no such limit

You can buy 20w50 for bikes with double the ZDDP content of sonic!!

Oo, is there such a thing as too much zddp