Power problem 3000rpm - yes I've changed solenoid

2004 TD4 HSE 90,000 km.

Saw the excellent sticky in fact before I had the power problem, so changed solenoid with relish - didn't even bother with a test drive. However problem's still there! Around 3,000 rpm, stutter like fuel starvation and yellow light comes on (right hand with exclamation mark). No other noticable effects - does seem a bit sluggish off the mark, but I think they're all like that. Aren't they?!

Any of you experts got any other bright ideas? Many thanks in advance, R

Have noticed that the fuel pump comes on with the ignition key and pumps for a good minute or more before cutting out (if I don't start the engine). And it makes a noise, which of course it might have made before and I hadn't noticed. Is all that normal?

Will change fuel filter in rear wheel arch asap, and let you know if anything improves. To me it's odd that it feels like a fuel starvation problem, but maybe in an electronic cut-out way (engine feels fine otherwise). And as I said, I've changed the solenoid.

Anyone any other ideas? Thanks, R

Rafe Dent said:

Have noticed that the fuel pump comes on with the ignition key and pumps for a good minute or more before cutting out (if I don't start the engine). And it makes a noise, which of course it might have made before and I hadn't noticed. Is all that normal?

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This is normal behaviour.

Although you've changed the solenoid, have you actually checked if the actuator's working? i.e. is the solenoid doing what it's supposed to when it's supposed to? Can the arm move freely to alter the turbo vanes?

Have you tried changing air filter, turbo vent filter, PCV filter and given the EGR a clean, as well as the fuel filter?

Have you changed the crankcase breather filter recently?

Great ideas, thanks. Should have worked that logic out myself in fact.

Will check the arm (is that easy?) and the other vents (didn't know ther were so many).

And change the filters one by one to try and get more quantitive results and feedback. Thanks R

No worries.... I'm sure it mentions in the thread about how to check it's actually working. The solenoid basically moves an arm which alters the turbos vanes to give the variable boost. From what I've read, if the solenoid stops working and therefore not moving this arm, the vanes in the turbo and get a bit clogged with soot and what not and get jammed open. Can't recall exactly but if you can't move this arm with a little bit of force to free it, I think you need to take the turbo off to clean them properly.

By the way - PCV filter is the same as the crankcase breather filter. Rather than just change the filter, many people swap if for an updated item from BMW - do a search and you'll find the part number for it. Around £25 from BMW but it's a bit more fit and forget than a replacement filter.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

sounds like an electric fuel pump problem to me...

Optimus Prime said:

sounds like an electric fuel pump problem to me...

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Exactly what I thought before reading your post Opti.

Optimus Prime said:

sounds like an electric fuel pump problem to me...

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Agreed, also with 90km on the clock it's possibly original fit and ready for replacement together with the fuel filter..

So, as I had already bought the new type BMW oil breather a while back, I replaced that; then
- blew out the air filter with compressed air (for other newbies such as myself, the air filter is located in the plastic housing underneath the oil breather);
- trimmed back most of the tubes on the solenoid, including the air-vent checking it wasn't blocked;
- pulled on the arm leading from the solenoid to the turbo to check not blocked (seemed to work, pulling against a quite strong spring-motion);
- cleared the decks and took it for a test drive.

Sure enough pretty much the same thing: power loss at about 3,000 rpm with yellow light.

Looks like you're right, could be filter/ pump. Went to L/R for fuel filter but they're shut at w/e, so will have to continue later. Do I chance it on just a fuel filter (aren't they about £10?), or get pump at same time (are they really about £150?). Thanks for all your help, R

Personally I would fit new pump and filter and also remove the tank unit and check the pick up is clear and the tank has no crap in it.

If you first want to confirm it's a fuel issue have the fault code retrieved, P1260 will indicate it's low primary fuel pressure.

So at last got round to changing fuel filter, and it works !! No more yellow light and power problem at 3,000 rpm.

Other newbies might like to know that under the rear wheel arch there are 2 x 10mm bolts holding the entire fuel pump/ filter assembly on to the chassis. Remove some of the wheel trim, undo 2 x bolts, detach elctrical connectors and fuel connectors (squeeze and pull), and it should all drop out. Then put it all in a vice, squirt WD40 everywhere and push/ pull the filter cannister out. The sedimentor should also be emptied, refit the fnew filter (direction etc all fairly obvious) and refit to vehicle.

I fired up the ignition before final trim assembly in case I had a fuel pump problem as well, but after much gurgling and humming was fairly convinced all working fine. Repeated twice, then fired up the engine with no starter churning required at all.

One lesson learned is that a fuel problem can stem from anything - starting with the nozzle right through to the tank, pump, filter, pipes, main pumps, injectors etc. Oh, and the solenoid. But maybe it gives slightly different symtoms. Thanks for all the help.

Good news! Glad you got it sorted and thanks for letting us all know!

Well that lasted all of about a week. Stuttering, yellow light and no power all over again.

So went off and bought the fuel pump (£200 downtown Genva L/R !), detached pump assembly, slotted it all in, and re-assembled everything - getting easier and quicker at this lark.

Works like a dream now. Not sure I've cracked the one week barrier yet, but all feels fine so far.

Hope this helps other newbies to get therough the maze of power/ yellow light issues. And thanks for all your predictions/ support - Optimus Prime Chaser Dann chromiumuk and chris.sargent. Spot on as ever.

I have the exact same problem. Just serviced my TD4 (not fuel filter as I was given the wrong one) and gave it a bit of a thrash and the power cut out at about 3000rpm and the yellow light comes on. When I ease off the gas the light goes off and the car drives ok again, providing I'm not over 3000 rpm etc... Is it worth taking it I to a landrover dealer and be told to bend over or should I just attempt to change the fule filter and pump myself? Problem is if it isn't that then I probably won't be able to do much else as I'm not the most madani ally minded guy. Any help here greatly received.

Pat

patrickrubix said:

I have the exact same problem. Just serviced my TD4 (not fuel filter as I was given the wrong one) and gave it a bit of a thrash and the power cut out at about 3000rpm and the yellow light comes on. When I ease off the gas the light goes off and the car drives ok again, providing I'm not over 3000 rpm etc... Is it worth taking it I to a landrover dealer and be told to bend over or should I just attempt to change the fule filter and pump myself? Problem is if it isn't that then I probably won't be able to do much else as I'm not the most madani ally minded guy. Any help here greatly received.

Pat

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Sounds like the low pressure fuel pump giving up.

If the car is over 8 years old and 60/120,000 miles then it is worth replacing anyway. Not hard, just fiddly and be prepared to catch the diesel that leaks out when you disconnect the pipes. Took me an hour to change last tine from start to finish.