Aaron's 90 rebuild (Round 2)

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Aaron quick Q mate, the allen key bolts you use for the door hinges, do you know the size?

Im going to get myself to bapp for bolts this week and get myself all the bolts i need to put my doors and wings back on dude!
 
Yeah the preload is the hard bit as its quite precise, should be able to do it easy enough though :)

Yeah even if it only saves me a little it would be worth it knowing I built it all myself :)

The RR was auto so the tunnel is already fairly large but I see abit of welding and bodyforming being required :( mehh cummins power will meke it worth it :D

Yeah, Just be a case of lots of measuring and cutting.
Would definitely be nice to know you'd done it all yourself :)
Yes, Cummins power will make it worth it :D

Aaron quick Q mate, the allen key bolts you use for the door hinges, do you know the size?

Im going to get myself to bapp for bolts this week and get myself all the bolts i need to put my doors and wings back on dude!

If you mean the front door bolts? Then just buy a kit off ebay or the like.
As normal bolts don't sit in the recess properly.
How come you've had the wings off, To repair the bulkhead I guess.
How did it go? :)
 
Went alright, need to replace at some point with one like the bulkhead you sold, Its another to do job lol, but for now i just want her back on the road to go play in some mud!!

When I'm set up with a nice cozy garage I'm gonna strip it down, could do with a new chassis or get a second hand one and galv it after patching it, i dunno tbh...

Maybe get settled and save for a galv and a new bulkhead for long term! End of the day ive seen guys on here who have had their trucks 10+ years and rebuild them after a hard life so why not :p

Ill have a look on ebay now for a set however i am useless when it comes to finding things on ebay
 
Went alright, need to replace at some point with one like the bulkhead you sold, Its another to do job lol, but for now i just want her back on the road to go play in some mud!!

When I'm set up with a nice cozy garage I'm gonna strip it down, could do with a new chassis or get a second hand one and galv it after patching it, i dunno tbh...

Maybe get settled and save for a galv and a new bulkhead for long term! End of the day ive seen guys on here who have had their trucks 10+ years and rebuild them after a hard life so why not :p

Ill have a look on ebay now for a set however i am useless when it comes to finding things on ebay

Ah, Fair enough, I'd have thought theirs not much original steal left now :p
That one of mine wasn't as good as first thought, When I striped the dash off I could see filler had been used in the past near the vents.

I don't blame you for wanting it back on the road, I'm a bit ****ed at the mo, But no money means it can't be finished.
Although I'm back at work for a couple of weeks so that should pay for a few bits :)

Galv chassis is well worth the money, It just spirals out of control with me as you want to do everything right while it's easy, Plus I don't like bolting rusty ****e on :eek:
If it was just a straight swap it'd take a quarter of the time and money to do.

Oh and did you find a bolt set dude?
 
So it's been a while since I updated this as I haven't really touched it.
Have kind of lost enthusiasm for it of late.
Mainly due to being skint. I have had stuff to do but thought whats the bloody point :(

Anyway I've had a series parallel relay here for ages I've just not fitted it.
So today I thought it'd be a good place to start again.
So I did a quick install to make sure it works as it should and left it at that.
Still needs a fair bit of tidying up but at least it starts on the key now.

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One thing I wasn't 100% sure about was where is says.
51 - Alternator B+
I assume it means the cable that usually goes from the starter to the alternator wants taking off the starter and taking to the relay instead as if not on cranking it'd put 24v to the alternator?
Thoughts please.

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That's a beast of a relay. I have no experience with these, but what you say makes sense. You could always check the voltage output before actually connecting it to the rest of the system to be sure.
 
good progress as usual Aaron, its going to be a beast when its done nice to see your making it all look tidy :D keep up the good work :cool:
Sam

Cheers dude :) Hopefully get back into it again soon.

That's a beast of a relay. I have no experience with these, but what you say makes sense. You could always check the voltage output before actually connecting it to the rest of the system to be sure.

It is :D
That was the original plan to check the voltage output, Until I realized my meter was at work.
Just wondered if anyone knew better than I did.
Although I'll bring my meter home tomorrow and check anyway.
 
Had a couple of hours on it today.
Not a bad day but theirs always something that doesn't go right.
Still managed to get a few bits and bobs done though.
So, Got handbrake assembly on.

Cut the seatbox a little so I could fit the clutch slave.
At this point I though I'd try and bleed the clutch.
Nope :mad:
The fluid wont even come out of the reservoir and down the pipe.
Even if I have the pipe disconnected it wont squirt out when the pedal is pressed.
Now this is a series 3 brake master I'm using for the clutch, So was bought new.
When it arrived it wasn't in a box so I'm thinking it may have been a ****part one :mad:
Guess that's what you get for buying off ebay.
So I'll order another from lr direct and chose the brand myself.

After that it was sorting the series parallel relay.
My assumptions where right with the alternator connections. (Brought meter home from work and checked)
So we now have 24v starting and 12v running.
Batteries are charging and everything seems fine.
Happy days :)
Still needs bolting down but I'm going to get some rivnuts for it.

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Oh and brother said he took a video today so if he sends me it I'll stick it up :D
 
Looking good Aaron. So do you have a list of what's left to do? Can't be that much, you've done loads already.

Cheers :)

Erm... Nope, Don't do lists.
To be honest. Not a lot to get it on the road.
It'd have been done a while back if I had money. And although I'm working again now I'm still dubious to spend to much as it's only a couple of weeks job.
Then back out of work again for an unknown period. (last time was 3-4 months) but I can't last that long again.
Anyway slightly off topic :eek:

Pair of props. (Currently deciding which ones to go for) Would like of the shelf if possible.
Diff lock and high/low selector. (Thinking air actuators) But again not cheap so may just stick them on a lever for now.
Gear selector. (Currently on its way from america :) )
Make trans tunnel. (Probably the last thing to do)
Make the clutch work after todays fiasco.
Other than that just stick the seats back in and general tart up and check of everything I've done.
Oh and some sound proofing :lol:
 
Rivnuts are great but always grease the bolts well.
When we change the clutch servos at work we get it all ready and whip the hyd pipe off of old servo onto new servo, gravity bleed a bit then it may need the odd pedal push to burp the thing clear.
It cant be that hard as day shift do it all the time and they arent the brightest things going!
 
Rivnuts are great but always grease the bolts well.
When we change the clutch servos at work we get it all ready and whip the hyd pipe off of old servo onto new servo, gravity bleed a bit then it may need the odd pedal push to burp the thing clear.
It cant be that hard as day shift do it all the time and they arent the brightest things going!

Yeah, I use rivnut where I can to be fair. They're good things.
I always grease stuff because I no doubt I'll need it in bits again.

RE the clutch master.
I've taken the complete pedal box out now.
So with the reservoir full and no pipe connected to the outlet if I pump the pedal nothing comes out.
Whereas usually it'd be coming out without even touching the pedal.
Which is making me think faulty master. Not even sure what else to think :eek:
 
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