Aaron's 90 rebuild (Round 2)

Al203 said:

Cheers, mate. That's the sort of clear advice I need when it comes to paint. Hadn't thought of the volatile stuff in there. I'll probably go for a good primer as you have. I am hoping to get the red as close to the rioja red, which is the original shade of red as the vehicle, doubt rustoleum do that

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No worries. A good primer and top coat will be fine. Epoxy primer is meant to be very good. Not used it myself yet but I've only heard good things.

Nope I doubt rustoleum will do rioja red either Thought you just wanted to paint them red

TrueStereo said:

Just want to add my thanks for this thread, Aaron. Can't wait to get a Landy of my own. Trouble is, I probably won't be able to take it completely to pieces because I'll need to drive it!! Dilemmas of Landy ownership! :decision:

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Cheers Good look with finding a Landy.
Taking it to pieces is all part of the fun (Well for me it is)
That's why you need two. One in bits and a daily driver

Thor1950 said:

The primer color will have effect on what shade the finish paint will have a light color primer will have a brighter red , than a black/dark primer will give a deeper darker color with the same paint. as well as air pressure will effect color and the thinners. right every thing down when doing the job in sections. air psi and very accurate measurements of paint, thinner, and hardener,

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+1.

Al203 said:

:scratching_chin:
Thor, that's awesome but way above me. Take on board the primer shade and will now be aware of that. Think I'll have to stick to acrylic from a can!

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Just use the same primer throughout and it'll be ok.

Right your ratio's down
2-1 with 10% thinner at 30psi etc.

There might be a slight difference but it's underneath and I doubt you'd be able to tell.

And will be a lot more harder wearing than out of a can when your done.

Al203 said:

Cheers, mate. That's the sort of clear advice I need when it comes to paint. Hadn't thought of the volatile stuff in there. I'll probably go for a good primer as you have. I am hoping to get the red as close to the rioja red, which is the original shade of red as the vehicle, doubt rustoleum do that

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hi mate if you google rawlinsons they have a sliding color chart for the rustoleum paint
and yes they do red

Al203 said:

I'm going to follow your lead and use rustoleum on the axles, radius arms, panhard etc I want to finish them in red to match the top of the Landy. Can you spray directly on top of the black rustoleum? Is that what you did?

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You can have rustoleum mixed in colours so if you pick the closest red and use the BS number

aaronmorris said:

Etch primer can be used for any bare metal. But yes I used it because I had it and I need a base layer for the cellulose. I could have used red oxide for instance.

I'd say you will need to flat the rustoleum as paint wont stick to a smooth surface. I doubt it will knacker the protection unless you rub back down to bare metal. Which is highly unlikely.

As for cellulose over the rustoleum. I'd be concerned about the high thinners content coursing problems. So 2k would be better.

Just had a thought can rustoleum be bought in red?
Be a much easier solution.

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yes the different shades of red, here is a color chart.. But a search will tell/show you.. Rustoleum.jpg Photo by ssten | Photobucket

Anyone know where you can get it mixed?

I don't want to hijack Aaron's superb rebuild thread any further. Thanks for all the advice, but you lads are way ahead of me in terms of knowledge and gear. Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor, spray gun any experience of using that sort of gear or anywhere to use it. I live in a modern design house where the garage is just big enough to park ya bike! So my plan was to do the underside myself and get the upperside done in a local spray shop. I'd really appreciate your guidance from this basic position, but I'm moving back to my original thread 'paint advice please'
Keep the pictures coming, Aaron

Al203 said:

Anyone know where you can get it mixed?

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Ermm im most sure decor8 mix it mate my closest is in stoke on trent but i know theres a couple dotted around uk

Al203 said:

I don't want to hijack Aaron's superb rebuild thread any further. Thanks for all the advice, but you lads are way ahead of me in terms of knowledge and gear. Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor, spray gun any experience of using that sort of gear or anywhere to use it. I live in a modern design house where the garage is just big enough to park ya bike! So my plan was to do the underside myself and get the upperside done in a local spray shop. I'd really appreciate your guidance from this basic position, but I'm moving back to my original thread 'paint advice please'
Keep the pictures coming, Aaron

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Cheers Still a way to go yet so plenty more pic's to come

I lived in one of those sort of houses for a couple of year. Pile of **** if you ask me and the estate was full of 10bob millionaires. Posh car on the drive and no food in the cupboards

Oh and don't worry about it threads never stay on topic on here

Evening folk

So not a lot done again today, Well I lost all morning as I went to pick my new toolbox up
Yep wasting yet more money

Anyway, Fitted vent flaps, windscreen and brackets. (In between the rain)

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And fitted the fuel tank. Connected the fuel lines and tried to start but there wasn't enough life in the battery so it's on charge and I'll try again tomorrow.

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was it a drivel special

Thor1950 said:

was it a drivel special

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How very dare you associate me with drivel
No the battery has been sat on a concrete floor for the last 3months and is dead as a fart. My engine will start

Aaron, why did you strip your axles down?
The steel ring holding the swivel seals on mine are wrecked, took them off today to find the seals are perished and just doing their job. Swivels are shiny and not a mark on them
Anyway, thought bugger, I'll need to take hub apart and I've not done that before. Had a look on your thread and you have pics of your axles stripped right down
Did a search of old threads and found one from 2006 describing how you can take the caliper off, undo the bolts at end of axle and pull the hub off. Didn't know that.
A lot of your Landy looks in great nick - the bulkhead for example. So was surprised you stripped axles down.

Al203 said:

Aaron, why did you strip your axles down?
The steel ring holding the swivel seals on mine are wrecked, took them off today to find the seals are perished and just doing their job. Swivels are shiny and not a mark on them
Anyway, thought bugger, I'll need to take hub apart and I've not done that before. Had a look on your thread and you have pics of your axles stripped right down
Did a search of old threads and found one from 2006 describing how you can take the caliper off, undo the bolts at end of axle and pull the hub off. Didn't know that.
A lot of your Landy looks in great nick - the bulkhead for example. So was surprised you stripped axles down.

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Why did I strip the axles right down. Well I could have easily slapped a load of paint all over the axles and thrown them back under the chassis.

But bare in mind I only drove it home and then stripped it for the rebuild.
So I wanted to check the condition of all the parts.

Plus I can do a more thorough job while they are completely striped.
new gaskets, seals, nuts bolts washers etc....

I'd rather do it now then when it's back on the road and seemingly ripping apart all my hard work if there was a problem. Now if there is ever a problem in the future I also know it's going to come apart easily.

And axles are easy to strip and build and probably didn't add that much time onto just painting them.

To be fair a lot of it is in good nick. If I'm honest I probably started with to good and a to expensive vehicle

The bulkhead had been repaired in the past. Not really up to my standards and had some filler in places. Could have repaired it but ended up with a td5 bulkhead instead. Which is as good as I could get.

At least your swivels are good, Many aren't and the new Teflon ones are meant to be crap if you offroad lot.
Gis' a shout if you need any advise with the axles and I'll happily try and help

Awesome, mate. Thanks for the offer, I might just need that help.
Looking in my Landy manual taking the hub apart looks like a nightmare, but then most jobs seem like that first time around. Mines a 1996 P reg, but I've had it for nearly 10 yrs and all oils have been changed at the correct intervals throughout that time. Before that it was dealer maintained, so the drivetrain seems to be in good condition for its age.
I must admit while picking peoples brains about how to paint them and what with I've been looking at the axles thinking when I get to the hub assemblies I'm going to hit bother. So its probably just as well the seals are on there way out and I have to take the hub off the axles. Hopefully that's as far as I need to go!
I've got a couple of mates with compressors, but no idea of capacity yet, hopefully find out tomorrow. Those needle guns need 4cfm and I fancy one to clean the axles, calipers etc. Then I can get them painted and start getting stuff put back on.

Al203 said:

Awesome, mate. Thanks for the offer, I might just need that help.
Looking in my Landy manual taking the hub apart looks like a nightmare, but then most jobs seem like that first time around. Mines a 1996 P reg, but I've had it for nearly 10 yrs and all oils have been changed at the correct intervals throughout that time. Before that it was dealer maintained, so the drivetrain seems to be in good condition for its age.
I must admit while picking peoples brains about how to paint them and what with I've been looking at the axles thinking when I get to the hub assemblies I'm going to hit bother. So its probably just as well the seals are on there way out and I have to take the hub off the axles. Hopefully that's as far as I need to go!
I've got a couple of mates with compressors, but no idea of capacity yet, hopefully find out tomorrow. Those needle guns need 4cfm and I fancy one to clean the axles, calipers etc. Then I can get them painted and start getting stuff put back on.

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Yeah, No worries mate

Them needle guns do look good.
I used a wire wheel in the grinder and wire wheel in the drill for the hard to reach places. I'd like to see how the needle gun compares.

If I get one I'll do some before and after pics.

Hi Aaron,

I see those neighbours are at it again. I've had that before and to say the least I hate ####ing neighbours. I ended up getting a unit a few years back and have never regretted it or looked back. As for paying for it, I usually have a breaker or 2 which covers all the rent and has even helped cover essential tools eg. ramp!

Just a thought for you mate, even gives you an excuse to get away from the missus haha

Al203 said:

If I get one I'll do some before and after pics.

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Sounds good to me

alexr said:

Hi Aaron,

I see those neighbours are at it again. I've had that before and to say the least I hate ####ing neighbours. I ended up getting a unit a few years back and have never regretted it or looked back. As for paying for it, I usually have a breaker or 2 which covers all the rent and has even helped cover essential tools eg. ramp!

Just a thought for you mate, even gives you an excuse to get away from the missus haha

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Hello matey,
Yep I f*cking hate neighbours as well.
Luckily no missus But all the same it stops people ****ing and whining and the extra space would be nice.
I have thought about it but I need to look into it a bit more.
Stuff like do you have to pay business rates.
How much does it cost you to rent a unit and how big? If you don't mind me asking. Pm if you prefer.
To be honest my only gripe is that renting seems like dead money, But is suppose if you can pay the rent by having a couple of breakers it seems ok.

Oh and a ramp would be bloody terrific

So first things first. It starts

Erm... What else have I done today. Well this is what I can remember not a lot heads been a bit f*cked today. More just a case of bumbling about than anything else.

Prepped the doors. Amazing how many dents you find with what appear to be straight doors.

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And in primer. Went out a few hours ago and flatted the primer ready for paint tomorrow.

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