Yet another 110 CSW full rebuild ! Photos given, Plenty of advise required :)

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saxmanuk

Active Member
Hello all,

Not been posting, but still been lurking for the last 9 months.
Thought it was about time to sort Leaky my Landy out!:rolleyes: Decided last Friday to strip him down and change the Bulkhead! Have been meaning to do it for a while. I have a TDCI and a 300TDI bulkhead to choose from, haven't made up my mind yet which one to use!

Anyway, I kept on going and woe and behold by the close of play yesterday I was down to the chassis! :eek:

My replacement parts list due to rust are now:



  • Rear Cappings ... Already purchased nice new galv ones from YRM :)
  • Side sill frames and C pillars
  • Various brackets around rear tub and seat fixings that I just grinded off!
  • and YES you guessed!! it the rear Xmember :(

The bulk of the chassis is in good nick with just surface rust

Loads of photos to be posted below but to start the ball rolling please advise on the following questions

1) Cannot move the chassis, so need to order in a new X member. With Pressbrake quitting tomorrow, anybody recommend a good 110 Member with tub rails etc. please? Prices varies from eBay £170ish to £400. Do I really need 3mm and not 2mm???
2) Can I sand blast my chassis to remove all the surface rust and oxidisation?

That's all for now!
I aim for this thread to be a rebuild photo record of one mans fight to remember where all the bits go! and not have any bolts left over !! lol
I am not a mechanic, but an IT salesman! so have no specialist tools and will be doing this 100% by myself.!

Thanks

Sean
 
Good luck. Just got mine down to chassis level too (except the front). I'm in IT myself but how hard can this rebuild thingy be??? :)
 
Photos below

Knackered C pillars
IMG_1443.JPG

Fooked X member
IMG_1457.JPG

Old Self leveller that doesn't work! Also cannot Budge those bolts from the A frame ball joint bracket
IMG_1460.JPG

can I remove this bracket and the whole damn BOGE?
IMG_1459.JPG
 
IT here as well. Guess we're taking over.
Don't have time to do the work myself on mine, not yet anyway. Once it's back on the road I will tinker with it.
I'm looking forward to the pictures; good luck widdit
 
May be wrong but thought Pressbrake was carrying on for a few days longer than end March

PM him quickly!

Good to see you back on here and good luck!




PS - I'm not in IT ;-)
 
May be wrong but thought Pressbrake was carrying on for a few days longer than end March

PM him quickly!

Good to see you back on here and good luck!




PS - I'm not in IT ;-)

lol Thanks Station. Swapped a few emails with Clive and we decided that I didn't need the bespoke XM that he makes. Next up was MIB and after a long conversation I have ordered one from them...expecting it in a weeks time. In the meantime I am practising welding again ! :)
 
Guys,
Just seen this whilst browsing rebuild threads
Any Pros or Cons?
Obviously not good for wading, but mine only sees puddles anyway
Is it advantageous for cleaner air input to the turbo?

View attachment 57550
I had a pair of Apexi power intake air filters on my previous car which was a twin turbo. They're all about maximum air flow without compromising cleanliness of the air.

If the standard air cleaner is a bottleneck then a higher flowing air cleaner will likely help a bit. This is a big topic, but simple answer is you need good flow in, through and out, and same with fuel, and then engine management. If any of those aspects are not addressed (perhaps there is still an air or fuel bottleneck, or engine management is not considered) you might get an improvement but it wont be very efficient and it could be worse.
 
Look like a fascinating project. Don't waste time trying to undo nuts and bolts that are seriously rusty, just chop the heads and tails off with that angle grinder and drift them out. Much better to fit new ones which you can slather with grease so they might actually come undone again. My favourite Land Rover tool is this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f37/impact-wrench-porn-217776.html which speeds matters up considerably.

It would be an interesting prospect to sand/grit blast the chassis on your driveway or in your shed. Personally I'd give it a good going over with a rotary wire brush in the angle grinder and Waxoyl/Dinitrol inside and out.

Looking forward to seeing this developing over the next few weeks.
 
So, been a few weeks since I posted! Been busy with work but will post some piccies. Most of the weekends have been about cleaning the chassis and painting with POR15 etc.
I chipped off all the surface rust and used an angle grinder to get back to clean steel. Chassis really good :) except for the Xmember. On order (for weeks now from MIB!)
RUSTY
Chassis rust.JPG
CLEAN
Chassis clean.JPG
PAINTED
painter.JPG

I also removed the completely useless and BOGE and threw it in the bin...it never worked as I found out when I had cement in the back once. I ordered some helper springs and fitted them
Helper .JPG

Drum handbrake was full of **** and oil and never worked so
fiited a XENG kit...lovely well made :p
Xeng.JPG


Whilst I had good access to everything I decided to change the timing belt....what a laugh getting that pully nut off! I tried all day but good not move it! :rolleyes: I eventually did the breaker bar under the chassis trick! but because the landy has no loom or ignition had to put the battery back on and short out the starter motor to turn it! good fun :D then had to borrow a puller to remove the pulley
puller.JPG

Cleaned up the A frame and fitted a new A frame ball joint:)
AFrame.JPG
 

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  • Bulkhead.JPG
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  • Gearbox.JPG
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Question please?
Whilst I have good access to my gearbox/transfer box and engine, I would think it is wise to check my clutch????????????????
please see picky below.....Can I just slide back the whole transmission from the engine and check or do I need to 1st remove the transfer and then the gearbox etc etc?
thanks
Gearbox.JPG
 
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