Freelander Faults poll

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

What faults have you encountered on your FL1


  • Total voters
    1,828
  • This poll will close: .
You ought to do a poll to identify how many Freelander Owners who are driving around without the propshaft. I am replacing my 3rd transfer box in 3 months :mad:, which is why I will be joining this crowded group.....
 
Bought a freelander l series that had been sat for a while, the rear brakes were siezed solid, due to being parked up so understandable but not helped by stupid adjuster.

It had a strange steering wobble that I never got to the bottom of but expect it was the rack needed changing.

The engine management light came on during constant throttle, I expect this was the throttle position sensor or the fip electronics but as it was not obd2 compliant it wouldn't talk to anything other than a Nanocom etc.

Then I sold it and as the buyer was collecting it the head gasket let go spectacularly!

Well I can safely say it was my last freelander and very nearly my last land rover!
 
Hmmmmm . Just recap my series of unfortunate events


  • Early Dec, noticed a loud rumble ( of death) under the car at 30-40 mph
  • Took car to Stratstone who were fixing an unrelated issue: HP Pump. They noted the rumble but could not pin down the issue ( " tho claimed they checked everything inc the VCU
  • Broke down mid Dec with a blown transfer box
  • Replaced transfer box and picked up car Christmas Eve
  • Still loud rumble but dumbly I drove to Birmingham to pickup someone up
  • Broke down again that day, and this time it was the Prop and transfer box
  • Replaced the transfer box but kept prop disconnected. fitted by a Took care to a Gear box specialist: They noted the VCU bearings were worn so I ordered the top GKN VCU bearings which they fitted. this cured the "Rumble of Death" . They thought the noise when the fitted the replacement prop was horrendous so the disconnected it before allowing me to drive the car away. I drove the car for 4 weeks without connecting the prop
  • Around 4 weeks ago I noted a garage in Stafford ( where I am working for the next month) seem to work on a lot of Freelanders so I got then to connect the prop. They found a rusty UV joint which they replaced and reconnected the replacement prop.
  • They noted a noise that seemed to be a wheel bearing or even the turbo going but thought the car would be fine
  • Broke down a week ago and the 2nd transfer box has gone Took 6 hours to be towed back because the crap AA approach to breakdowns. -
  • At a local garage, I got under the car and you could see a lot of oil near the connection to the prop. I ordered a new transfer box ( 3rd) and agreed with their recommendation that Mark 1s have a flimsy 4x4 system so safer without the prop - I have now heard the recommendation from other garages. They replaced the transfer box and all oil which they noted was very black when they drained the gearbox.
  • Lets hope I get to a month without breaking down - maybe I will celebrate if I do:mil82:
in no expert but you must be doing something wrong
. Oh believe me I am all ears as to what I could possible be doing wrong that is now cost me the best part of £2.5 K
 
Last edited:
I've noticed that with all the work you've had done you haven't mentioned that the VCU unit has been changed, as stated many times on here by lots of people a faulty VCU will kill the IRD unit (transfer box), maybe the VCU is the problem and if it was changed much earlier it could have saved you a great deal of money.
 
British Wardog is 100% correct but tyre wear is the biggest cause of damaged VCU. The VCU is a limited slip item and the greater the speed diff between front and rear drive the more heat is generated in the VCU causing it to lock up as designed, now a 4x4.
 
Hi, I'm new to the forum, nice to meet you all! I have a problem with my 2002 TD4. Occasionally it has been smoking quite badly, running on after ignition is switched off, and occasionally the engine management light has been coming on. It starts no prob and sometimes none of the above symptoms happen. I have had it diagnosed as a faulty high pressure fuel pump. Is this likely?
 
Our 54 plate TD4 had been almost trouble free for over 3 years, then the rear diff broke the aluminium casing when my wife was driving it. Thankfully she pulled over and we had it taken to a friends 4x4 garage and he fitted a replacement diff. Other than that and a replacement 2nd hand rear door lock It's been no trouble (I did have to get a fuel pump about a year ago also)

Just passed It's MOT about 2 weeks ago, had to put 2 rear brake pipes on it (Copper ones)
 
Last edited:
The Freelander looked good to me at the start and seemed a good bet by way of entry into the fabled world of Landrover. In reality -and subsequent to my ownership of Gladys (a 99'er) it is in reality a classic piece of British engineering that has succeeded in epitomizing everything that was fundamentally wrong with our car industry and quite understandably (like the British motorcycle industry) lead to its complete demise.
The best thing you can do to a Freelander is totally neglect it and thrash it into the floor thereafter with absolute intent. Once you have killed it, you can then move on to something far better (not a difficult task, as even a Halfords discounted pushbike would prove to be an -albeit noticeably slower and less comfortable- improvement)
Anyone who challenges this opinion is either seriously dysfunctional, lying through their teeth for reasons their respective partners don't want to discover, or need to be sectioned under the mental health act immediately! :violent:
 
The best thing you can do to a Freelander is totally neglect it and thrash it into the floor thereafter with absolute intent. Once you have killed it, you can then move on ...........! :violent:


This is why we have so many poorly freelanders on the forum - so many people think they can run a 4x4 for the same amount of money and effort as a average hatchback.
 
The Freelander looked good to me at the start and seemed a good bet by way of entry into the fabled world of Landrover. In reality -and subsequent to my ownership of Gladys (a 99'er) it is in reality a classic piece of British engineering that has succeeded in epitomizing everything that was fundamentally wrong with our car industry and quite understandably (like the British motorcycle industry) lead to its complete demise.
The best thing you can do to a Freelander is totally neglect it and thrash it into the floor thereafter with absolute intent. Once you have killed it, you can then move on to something far better (not a difficult task, as even a Halfords discounted pushbike would prove to be an -albeit noticeably slower and less comfortable- improvement)
Anyone who challenges this opinion is either seriously dysfunctional, lying through their teeth for reasons their respective partners don't want to discover, or need to be sectioned under the mental health act immediately! :violent:



You call your motor Gladys and then challenge other people's mental health!! ;)

Cars are built by economists these days, not engineers, the FL1 only had an eight year business plan
 
First time I write in LZ...just want to say that my Freelander, 1999 L series diesel, has always serviced me very well and apart from ordinary maintainance (engine oil and filter, air filter, diesel filter every 20.000 km or once a year) I just replaced the timing belt, auxiliary belt and tensioners etc every 100.000 km, replaced driver windows' electric mechanism once, rear diff mountings once, 1 VCU at 150.000 km, IRD and rear diff oil every 60.000 km, gearbox oil at the same interval as the timing belt...not a single major problem, 15 years and still running perfectly.
 
First time I write in LZ...just want to say that my Freelander, 1999 L series diesel, has always serviced me very well and apart from ordinary maintainance (engine oil and filter, air filter, diesel filter every 20.000 km or once a year) I just replaced the timing belt, auxiliary belt and tensioners etc every 100.000 km, replaced driver windows' electric mechanism once, rear diff mountings once, 1 VCU at 150.000 km, IRD and rear diff oil every 60.000 km, gearbox oil at the same interval as the timing belt...not a single major problem, 15 years and still running perfectly.

Your next thread will be 99 L-series for sale, runs perfect, never misses a beat...honest ;)
 
Your next thread will be 99 L-series for sale, runs perfect, never misses a beat...honest ;)

I was sincere about what I wrote and (as they say, touch wood) I hope my next thread is not going to be named "a mew major problem with my L-series"...! As far as I'm concerned I don't want to sell it (to earn what? something like...1000/2000 Euros?)...and even if i want to, I'm italian and living in Italy, so I guess I wouldn't consider to put it on sale here ;) I just wanted to share what faults my Freelander's suffered, saying that they were nothing major...I didn't want to do a strange "self-marketing" ;)
 
I was sincere about what I wrote and (as they say, touch wood) I hope my next thread is not going to be named "a mew major problem with my L-series"...! As far as I'm concerned I don't want to sell it (to earn what? something like...1000/2000 Euros?)...and even if i want to, I'm italian and living in Italy, so I guess I wouldn't consider to put it on sale here ;) I just wanted to share what faults my Freelander's suffered, saying that they were nothing major...I didn't want to do a strange "self-marketing" ;)

I was pulling your leg Alberto! and your input is appreciated.

I'm the FL1 biggest critic, it has many faults and at the same time one of its biggest fans.

The L-series is a solid engine, the most reliable of the bunch, some N.I. Rover drivers tune their L-series to 150bhp.:cool: Keep err lit

I always say to people, find a motor you like and stick to it.
I agree, why sell a perfectly good motor for little money.

Viva Italia, we have the Giro d'italia here at the moment
 
Back
Top