Baloney999
Active Member
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- Bali, Indonesia
This happened to me and I found a helpful posting in 'another place' so I edited it and expanded it and now I'm sharing it:
HOW TO GET THE GLOVEBOX OPEN WHEN THE OPEN BUTTON DOES NOT WORK, AND THEN REASSEMBLE IT CORRECTLY
If work has been done that requires the removal of the glove box, when it is reassembled you may find that the glovebox will not open when you depress the button. The main reasons that cause this are, a) when you replace the release actuator you inadvertently fail to locate the link rod into the actuator, b) you forgot to replace the release actuator, c) the cable to the release actautor has somehow become snagged or kinked, preventing the cable running freely, or d) the release actuator popped out when you used the open button.
First I will describe how to open the glovebox and then I will detail the correct reassembly, highlighting important points.
Remove the trim panel above the footwell. This is held by three plastic fittings that pull out after the threaded centre pin is removed. If they don't unscrew, a sharp yank should remove it without any damage. If it is too difficult to remove the inboard fixing you can just leave it in situ provided the hinge bolts are exposed it wont get in the way. This will expose the glovebox hinge bolts.
Then remove the exposed 4 hex head hinge screws and the gearbox cover (outer) panel together with the interior plastic upper liner of the glovebox will come loose.
From a position outside the car, you should now be able to pry the drawer away from the interior plastic upper liner just enough to see where the hasp of the lid enters the lock on the side nearest the passenger door. The claw that holds the hasp in place is bright steel and should just be visible. Using a thin screwdriver, push this up towards the top of the drawer and that side of the lock should release. If you cannot see the claw, gently probe with the screwdriver aiming to catch it and move it towards the rear of the car. A long thin screwdriver inserted from the direction of the glovebox hinge should do it.
Now the door will drop low enough on that side to access at least three of the five screws that hold the glovebox upper liner to the dashboard. Remove as many screws as you can and without straining the assembly too much ease it away from the dashboard and top of the upper liner, which contains the catch mechanism will become visible. Locate the cable actuator and pop it out. It has two small tabs at the cable entry side (either side of the cable) that need to be moved inwards whilst gently applying outward pressure to the actuator (if you're doing this because you forgot to fit it before putting the door back, skip this stage).
Now the gold coloured link rod will be visible and moving the cranked part towards the front of the car will release the other lock.
Remove the remaining screws that hold the upper liner to the dashboard and disconnect the connector that feeds the glovebox interior lamp.
The glovebox is now completely detached from the dashboard apart from the small damper secured with a split pin. To reassemble, ensuring that the actuator works, the following points should be noted:
Support the dashboard assembly so it is located roughly in the right position (a small cardboard box will do nicely).
Replace the actuator: Lock the upper liner to the lower cover panel for stability. Locate the upper tabs of the actuator first whilst holding the link rod upwards so that the cranked part of the link rod fits into the white recess in the actuator. Push the bottom of the actuator firmly to click in the bottom tabs.
Test the operation of the actuator by pushing the glovebox release button and it should unlock. If it does not, you have failed to locate the cranked part of the link rod correctly. Test further by pushing the release button vigorously; if the actuator locating tabs are not firmly located the actuator may pop out after a couple of times (if this happens after you have put it all back together again please start again at the top of the page).
When you are satisfied that the actuator works and is secure, lock the two parts of the glovebox together and replace the hinge bolts as described below.
A point to note: The outer two glovebox hinge bolts, screw into square retainers that are not fixed to the frame (they will have fallen out when you removed the bolts). These two outer bolts hold the plastic upper liner of the glovebox by clamping it between the hinge and the retainer. When replacing the hinge, put the inner bolts in first, securing the outer panel of the glovebox to the crossmember, and before tightening them fully insert the retainer between the plastic and the metal crossmember. Then insert the outer bolt, securing the plastic between the square washer and the metal hinge. Note that the bottom edge of the plastic near the bolts locates behind the lower A post trim at the side of the footwell.
Once the hinge is secure, reconnect the interior glovebox lamp wire and then unlock the glove box and whilst still supported, replace the five screws to secure the upper liner to the dashboard.
Replace the trim panel above the footwell.
Finally, tell the missus/girlfriend/significant other that they now have access to their wet wipes (well, thats what my missus keeps in there).
(sorry, no photos because, a) you know what it looks like inside because you've probably had it to bits already and that's why it doesn't work, and b) I was really hot and had enough trouble seeing through my sweat streaked glasses as it was without getting my iPhone all sweaty as well)
HOW TO GET THE GLOVEBOX OPEN WHEN THE OPEN BUTTON DOES NOT WORK, AND THEN REASSEMBLE IT CORRECTLY
If work has been done that requires the removal of the glove box, when it is reassembled you may find that the glovebox will not open when you depress the button. The main reasons that cause this are, a) when you replace the release actuator you inadvertently fail to locate the link rod into the actuator, b) you forgot to replace the release actuator, c) the cable to the release actautor has somehow become snagged or kinked, preventing the cable running freely, or d) the release actuator popped out when you used the open button.
First I will describe how to open the glovebox and then I will detail the correct reassembly, highlighting important points.
Remove the trim panel above the footwell. This is held by three plastic fittings that pull out after the threaded centre pin is removed. If they don't unscrew, a sharp yank should remove it without any damage. If it is too difficult to remove the inboard fixing you can just leave it in situ provided the hinge bolts are exposed it wont get in the way. This will expose the glovebox hinge bolts.
Then remove the exposed 4 hex head hinge screws and the gearbox cover (outer) panel together with the interior plastic upper liner of the glovebox will come loose.
From a position outside the car, you should now be able to pry the drawer away from the interior plastic upper liner just enough to see where the hasp of the lid enters the lock on the side nearest the passenger door. The claw that holds the hasp in place is bright steel and should just be visible. Using a thin screwdriver, push this up towards the top of the drawer and that side of the lock should release. If you cannot see the claw, gently probe with the screwdriver aiming to catch it and move it towards the rear of the car. A long thin screwdriver inserted from the direction of the glovebox hinge should do it.
Now the door will drop low enough on that side to access at least three of the five screws that hold the glovebox upper liner to the dashboard. Remove as many screws as you can and without straining the assembly too much ease it away from the dashboard and top of the upper liner, which contains the catch mechanism will become visible. Locate the cable actuator and pop it out. It has two small tabs at the cable entry side (either side of the cable) that need to be moved inwards whilst gently applying outward pressure to the actuator (if you're doing this because you forgot to fit it before putting the door back, skip this stage).
Now the gold coloured link rod will be visible and moving the cranked part towards the front of the car will release the other lock.
Remove the remaining screws that hold the upper liner to the dashboard and disconnect the connector that feeds the glovebox interior lamp.
The glovebox is now completely detached from the dashboard apart from the small damper secured with a split pin. To reassemble, ensuring that the actuator works, the following points should be noted:
Support the dashboard assembly so it is located roughly in the right position (a small cardboard box will do nicely).
Replace the actuator: Lock the upper liner to the lower cover panel for stability. Locate the upper tabs of the actuator first whilst holding the link rod upwards so that the cranked part of the link rod fits into the white recess in the actuator. Push the bottom of the actuator firmly to click in the bottom tabs.
Test the operation of the actuator by pushing the glovebox release button and it should unlock. If it does not, you have failed to locate the cranked part of the link rod correctly. Test further by pushing the release button vigorously; if the actuator locating tabs are not firmly located the actuator may pop out after a couple of times (if this happens after you have put it all back together again please start again at the top of the page).
When you are satisfied that the actuator works and is secure, lock the two parts of the glovebox together and replace the hinge bolts as described below.
A point to note: The outer two glovebox hinge bolts, screw into square retainers that are not fixed to the frame (they will have fallen out when you removed the bolts). These two outer bolts hold the plastic upper liner of the glovebox by clamping it between the hinge and the retainer. When replacing the hinge, put the inner bolts in first, securing the outer panel of the glovebox to the crossmember, and before tightening them fully insert the retainer between the plastic and the metal crossmember. Then insert the outer bolt, securing the plastic between the square washer and the metal hinge. Note that the bottom edge of the plastic near the bolts locates behind the lower A post trim at the side of the footwell.
Once the hinge is secure, reconnect the interior glovebox lamp wire and then unlock the glove box and whilst still supported, replace the five screws to secure the upper liner to the dashboard.
Replace the trim panel above the footwell.
Finally, tell the missus/girlfriend/significant other that they now have access to their wet wipes (well, thats what my missus keeps in there).
(sorry, no photos because, a) you know what it looks like inside because you've probably had it to bits already and that's why it doesn't work, and b) I was really hot and had enough trouble seeing through my sweat streaked glasses as it was without getting my iPhone all sweaty as well)
