revs limited and engine management light!

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taLL

New Member
Posts
26
Location
south wales
Hi again guy's, I have a problem, think I know the cause but wanted to run it by you before I spend the cash!

Firstly ive had a bad starting fault for over a year (there is another thread on here trying to get to the bottom of it that I will link later) In the end I decided to use a local diagnostic garage that id been recommended. He cleared all the fault codes and told me to drive it a bit till it came back then he would re check it. But in the week I had it back I blew the turbo!:rolleyes:

He then proceeded to fit a new (recon) turbo, along with all the associated filters and oil. He also changed one of the injectors as a fault code kept returning.

The car drove fine but the starting problem was still there (although not as bad, possibly due to warmer weather) (glow plugs are new).

Anyway the starting problem became worse again the last 2 weeks, then tuesday driving on the motor-way at about 70-80mph the engine hesitated for a second then carried on no problem. Later that evening driving home though town it wouldn't rev past 3000-3500 rpm. The next day it wouldn't start, no attempt at all to fire the engine and i couldn't hear the low pressure fuel pump at all. i left the car and used the wife's for 2 days. just had a look at it again and it started (low pressure fuel pump could be heard again) and if i hold the throttle down it will rev to 3500 rpm and a second later the engine management light comes on.

Is it a fair assumption that the low pressure fuel pump is nearly dead and that has progressively got worse causing the bad starting to deteriorate and then ultimately cause the rev limiting symptom due to fuel starvation resulting in the engine management light coming on?!!!

FEW! That was a long story, but it has the detail so hopefully you can help me! PLEASE:D
 
would agree that the lp fuel pump needs looking at, esp if you couldn't hear it on one occasion, when mine failed, it had the same symptoms (although would start) wouldn't rev and kept bringing eml on.

might also be worth looking at a leak back test on the injectors as this can cause starting issues.

good luck
 
sounds very similar to my freelander revs to 3000 ish, first changed the filter which was rank this sorted it while i was priming the filter the pump made some noises but i thought this was normal only to go out for the day happy as larry only to need a tow home after the low pressure pump packing up. All sorted now
 
this is all good info guys, think ill look into getting a new pump.
dont suppose anyone has a link to a good 'how to'
 
HiSame thing happed with mine (TD4) would not rev past 3k then eml comes on.Replace LP pump and filter under rear wheel arch. What mileage are you on as these pumps are known to pack up after 70-90k?
 
Tall your problem description is exactly the same thing that happened to me, I am going to have to order the LP Fuel pump and filter. Does anyone know the best place to get one and if possible a part number ?

Cheers guy for the great advice
 
This sounds like what happened to me today.

I was on one of my local 60mph roads and overtook a vehicle. I was in 3rd gear on the steptronic. The car ran out of revs but didn't change up automatically, which I thought was odd. I manually changed up.

Later on I was playing on one of my favourite twisty roads and realised the same thing was happening, but it wasn't getting to the red line, but hitting a ceiling of 3000-3500rpm. The orange EML light came on.

As soon as I eased off the loud pedal, the EML went out. I repeated this several times, with a Ronbox on 7 & high, 7 & Eco 1 and the stopped and turned off the a Ronbox. Still the same.

Sounds like my fuel pump in the offside rear wheel arch might be the culprit from reading em above posts. It is absolutely fine most of the time as it rarely goes over 2000-2500rpm around London and I very rarely drive it fast.

I also have a pronounced diesel knock whenever the loud pedal is used, regardless of speed or rate of acceleration.

Any thoughts?

TD4 auto with 120,000 miles on the clock.
 
but hitting a ceiling of 3000-3500rpm

had that .. but with No dash light ( brick-wall at 3500 rpm in 3rd gear )
changed filter and pump ..
sorted .. well only tried it up to 3500 rpm in 4th once .. seemed more than willing to go beyond
don't know if it were the filter or the pump
( have yet to cut open the old filter for a look-see ..
( or figure how to test the old pump ..
filter had 75k miles on it .. same for pump but it were still working ..
i.e. bar 2 occasions .. were as 'noisy' as when i bought the hippo at 37k miles

as for :
I also have a pronounced diesel knock whenever the loud pedal is used, regardless of speed or rate of acceleration.

i'd guess fuel quality .. and/or .. injector ..
( did you not write that you had an injector problem .. or was that sorted ? )
the bmw engine has 2 ( or 3? ) phases of injection ..
designed to smooth out that 'diesel knock'
so if an injector is playing up .. at a guess .. extra 'knock' could be a symptom

a low cetane fuel would probably induce more 'knock'
or fuel with contaminants such as water
( well all diesel will have some water in it .. to a point ..
( hence draining the sedimenter as a service item

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2176872-post16.html

only time i've had what i'd consider to be more-than-usual-knock
was when i fueled up once with shell fuel-save .. plus it were summer time ( i.e. hot temps )

now i always use 'diesel rhino' plus a small amount of 2-stroke ..
and use 'regular diesel' ( now trying texaco )
engine be very smooth ..
 
Last edited:
had that .. but with No dash light ( brick-wall at 3500 rpm in 3rd gear )
changed filter and pump ..
sorted .. well only tried it up to 3500 rpm in 4th once .. seemed more than willing to go beyond
don't know if it were the filter or the pump
( have yet to cut open the old filter for a look-see ..
( or figure how to test the old pump ..
filter had 75k miles on it .. same for pump but it were still working ..
i.e. bar 2 occasions .. were as 'noisy' as when i bought the hippo at 37k miles

as for :


i'd guess fuel quality .. and/or .. injector ..
( did you not write that you had an injector problem .. or was that sorted ? )
the bmw engine has 2 ( or 3? ) phases of injection ..
designed to smooth out that 'diesel knock'
so if an injector is playing up .. at a guess .. extra 'knock' could be a symptom

a low cetane fuel would probably induce more 'knock'
or fuel with contaminants such as water
( well all diesel will have some water in it .. to a point ..
( hence draining the sedimenter as a service item

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2176872-post16.html

only time i've had what i'd consider to be more-than-usual-knock
was when i fueled up once with shell fuel-save .. plus it were summer time ( i.e. hot temps )

now i always use 'diesel rhino' plus a small amount of 2-stroke ..
and use 'regular diesel' ( now trying texaco )
engine be very smooth ..


The EM light came on several times tonight in a short 70 mile run to South Oxfordshire. Kept the speed down to around 50-55 mph. Coped with all the hills okay.

I am using millers and 2 stroke oil in every tank full. I will get some diesel Rhino shortly.

Yep still have injector problem. Getting worse. Will replace all 4 next month.
 
I am using millers and 2 stroke oil in every tank full. I will get some diesel Rhino shortly.

only reason i use that is 'cause i used the original version when based in the usa back in the '70s 'n driving artic-hgv's ..
and .. it dispels water in the fuel .. ( v.important when using diesel in sub-zero temps :)

anyhow .. If one looks at the separate chemicals used ..
essentially many of the 'fuel additives' makers use the same ones ..
or chemicals of the same 'family' .. each for it's purpose ..

Yep still have injector problem. Getting worse. Will replace all 4 next month.
that's probably the extra diesel knock your getting ..
plus .. adding millers .. or whatever .. won't cure it ..

injectors might even be the source of your other problem
( unless you know the pump is past-its-use-by-date )
either way .. if injectors are leaking ..
the pump(s) will have trouble attaining the pressure required on demand
and if so ..
the ecu will cut the engine power in an effort to prevent damage to the high pressure pump ..
 
There was no leak back when I last had the injectors looked at.

The low pressure wheel arch fuel pump has started to make much more noise than normal when you turn the ignition on, and as it has done 120,000 miles, it is a good place to start. I suspected a problem there a few months ago, but everything seemed okay, so I left alone.
 
What are the symptoms of a failing CPS?

according to the m47r pdf ..
if the signal becomes corrupted from a failing CPS ..
the engine stops and won't restart
( and a fault code is logged )
 
No fault codes logged in my Scangauge and the engine starts and stops fine at the moment.

When cold the EML came on at about 1500 rpm with gentle acceleration but as the engine warmed up I saw the light less and less.
 
When cold the EML came on at about 1500 rpm with gentle acceleration but as the engine warmed up I saw the light less and less.

set one of the scangauges to LPH
you'll note when the engine is cold the Litres Per Hour figure is relatively high ..
then as the engine warms up .. the figure drops ..

aprox. mine @ idle :
no ac or ptc heater .. .56-.61lph
with ac 'on' .. .91 lph ( can drop to .75 lph )
with ptc heater 'on' .. .91lph .. rpm rise to 852 from 776 ..

when first starting ( current outside temps ) idle lph is about 1.51 lph
drops back to .56/.61 after about a mile or two ..

seems like your engine dash light might suggest a lack of fuel pressure
i.e. as the engine warms up .. the demand ( go pedal ) for fuel pressure on acceleration would lessen somewhat ..
 
set one of the scangauges to LPH
you'll note when the engine is cold the Litres Per Hour figure is relatively high ..
then as the engine warms up .. the figure drops ..

aprox. mine @ idle :
no ac or ptc heater .. .56-.61lph
with ac 'on' .. .91 lph ( can drop to .75 lph )
with ptc heater 'on' .. .91lph .. rpm rise to 852 from 776 ..

when first starting ( current outside temps ) idle lph is about 1.51 lph
drops back to .56/.61 after about a mile or two ..

seems like your engine dash light might suggest a lack of fuel pressure
i.e. as the engine warms up .. the demand ( go pedal ) for fuel pressure on acceleration would lessen somewhat ..

Thanks, that is what I thought....

New low pressure pump winging its way to me.
 
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