Rusted door replacements

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Burtie2904

Active Member
Posts
117
Location
Winchester, Hampshire
Hi everyone,

I have a defender 110 and the base of all the doors have rotten, I need to replace all the doors and they are too rotten to weld a new section in. What where and how can I get some new ones which will fit for a good price. I cant afford too expensive. Finally how hard are they too fit.

Thank you, Burtie
 
I've been looking into this for years. All the doors bottoms and some sides are rotten or missing on my 110.

Choices:
1) Second hand- Almost all of them will be as rotten as yours, unless you find someone breaking a brand new Defender, in which case they will want £300+ for each door.
2) Brand new- !!!!! :eek::eek:
3) Lots of skin removal and welding and time.

Option 3 is all I can afford....when I can afford the time.
 
I've been looking into this for years. All the doors bottoms and some sides are rotten or missing on my 110.

Choices:
1) Second hand- Almost all of them will be as rotten as yours, unless you find someone breaking a brand new Defender, in which case they will want £300+ for each door.
2) Brand new- !!!!! :eek::eek:
3) Lots of skin removal and welding and time.

Option 3 is all I can afford....when I can afford the time.

Thank guys I will have to weld it, I can weld but I don't have welding kit and neither does my dad as im only 13
 
I got some ok doors for my Defender for £45 each (bargain tbh and the right colour too!)

They are just starting to go on the hinge corner but otherwise ok, they will do for now and are a good basis to repair properly in the summer, much better than my old doors that were, well there was nothing left!

For now I've hammerited them and filled the bottoms with waxoyl to try and protect them until I can get them repaired properly :)
 
I got some ok doors for my Defender for £45 each (bargain tbh and the right colour too!)

They are just starting to go on the hinge corner but otherwise ok, they will do for now and are a good basis to repair properly in the summer, much better than my old doors that were, well there was nothing left!

For now I've hammerited them and filled the bottoms with waxoyl to try and protect them until I can get them repaired properly :)

Do you know if I can get some for the same price?
 
The bad news is it does seem there are a lot of people looking for 'bargain' doors and that is likely to keep s/h prices high.
When I got my 110 I thought the doors were pretty rotten but having seen some others still in service changed my view and will take my time to find replacements rather than rush it and pay OTT.
 
Fair enough, the only reason I ask is because I have seen people restore some really bad doors in the past

I like to think I would be one of these people, I took a totally knackered door cut out all the swiss cheese, replaced the bottoms even the flat mid plate was knackered mechanically and chemically stripped it all and then had it galvanised, painted the frame with etch primer first, got a new skin off ebay, painted the inside of it with etch primer. This is not actually essential when putting aluminium and zinc into contact because they are more or less next to each other on the galvanic series, unlike aluminium and steel which MUST be separated to avoid corrosion. I then assembled the two pieces wish about a kilo of seam sealer between the skin and frame (again not essential but good practise) used clamps and thin battens of wood to clamp it all up and it looks great now.

I don't even worry when I see the terrible window seal letting water pour down behind the skin knowing that it's galvanised in there! Passenger side was a TD5 take off which was in excellent and I mean excellent condition, I just seam sealed it, I don't like water running down it!

IMG-20130314-01618.jpg
IMG-20130521-01853.jpg
 
I like to think I would be one of these people, I took a totally knackered door cut out all the swiss cheese, replaced the bottoms even the flat mid plate was knackered mechanically and chemically stripped it all and then had it galvanised, painted the frame with etch primer first, got a new skin off ebay, painted the inside of it with etch primer. This is not actually essential when putting aluminium and zinc into contact because they are more or less next to each other on the galvanic series, unlike aluminium and steel which MUST be separated to avoid corrosion. I then assembled the two pieces wish about a kilo of seam sealer between the skin and frame (again not essential but good practise) used clamps and thin battens of wood to clamp it all up and it looks great now.

I don't even worry when I see the terrible window seal letting water pour down behind the skin knowing that it's galvanised in there! Passenger side was a TD5 take off which was in excellent and I mean excellent condition, I just seam sealed it, I don't like water running down it!

View attachment 54841
View attachment 54842


It might have been a thread of yours I've seen, I'm hoping to do the same with my doors so I'll put plenty of pics up when I do it.
 
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