Turner engineering H180 torque cam anyone?

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bencorkill

bencorkill

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barnet , north london
Got my rebuild going, dont wanna put standard cam shaft in, what have you guys used and what benefits/flaws have you had? dont want a mad race cam that has 400000bhp at 12000rpm just want more down low torque as its a auto cant afford to lose any torque but would like abit more gas n go! And few more MPG when not using all of that GO!
 
Ben,

kent H180 is lovely, particularly with the auto box - Piper Torque Max very similar - extra 20-ish bhp and great torque - just make sure you shim the rocker stems correctly - shims and instructions come with the cam kit - sounds daunting but very easy.

If you are running hotwire and you can afford it, get a Tornado ECU chip as well - you can advance the timing for extra poke and it runs lean when cruising so you get much better economy on a long run. most people say 15% or so.

You tend not to see any benefits lower down because the temptation is there to spin the world backwards with all the torque.

My last Disco 1 had both of those plus carbon trumpets and a stainless branched manifold and exhaust and it was very quick and responsive and drove like a dream.

I sold it to a guy on this forum who lives in North Wales and he loves it. I miss it actually - it was a great car.
 
Last edited:
Ben

the shims go at the bottom of the posts that position the rocker arms on top of the cylinder heads - the reason they have these is to eliminate any risk of over-streching the springs and damaging the valves if, for example the heads have been skimmed.

It is dead easy - when you have fitted the cam and new lifters your next job is to insert the pushrods and put on the rocker arms.

You then slowly rotate the cam and watch the valves open and close - if you see two opening at the same time (overlap) you will have to add a shim to the bottom of the post - then you try again - generally you don't have to fit one, or find that one is enough - but you can go 3 deep on occasion.

Don't worry about it - it takes 20 mins to take the rockers off and re-shim them.

If you buy from Turners Richard will talk it through, or you can talk to Kent Cams direct - but they take a while to call back.
 
griffman said:
Ben

the shims go at the bottom of the posts that position the rocker arms on top of the cylinder heads - the reason they have these is to eliminate any risk of over-streching the springs and damaging the valves if, for example the heads have been skimmed.

It is dead easy - when you have fitted the cam and new lifters your next job is to insert the pushrods and put on the rocker arms.

You then slowly rotate the cam and watch the valves open and close - if you see two opening at the same time (overlap) you will have to add a shim to the bottom of the post - then you try again - generally you don't have to fit one, or find that one is enough - but you can go 3 deep on occasion.

Don't worry about it - it takes 20 mins to take the rockers off and re-shim them.

If you buy from Turners Richard will talk it through, or you can talk to Kent Cams direct - but they take a while to call back.
Click to expand...

Cheers! looking forward to it haha
 
btw they are one of the only routes I found to getting US made lifters as opposed to those made in the third world like all others are so far as I could tell, regardless of brand
 
its a very very mild cam - not really worth it for the work in changing the cam IMHO


what engine do you have?
 
I was going to say go for the Viper Cyclone Camshaft from real steel for the 3.9 which give a bit more low-mid range torque than the hurricane.

are you using standard heads?
 
bencorkill said:
Rebuilt but standard, think i will be sticking with the hurricane as i dont wanna go mad!
Click to expand...


the hurricane is a "wilder" cam - its supposed power band extends beyond that of the cyclone (6000rpm) with standard heads you are not going to be making power at that rpm. the cyclone's power band is only to 5500rpm making it the better choice IMHO
 
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