Dual mass flywheel ?????

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bandit600

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hello
been having a problem for some time now, last year my master cylinder went so i replaced that but never seemed right as was getting a kick when going into 1st and sometimes 2nd i bleed the clutch but still same so i assumed clutch was on its way out.

anyway about 10 months later clutch slave went so i changed the complete clutch whilst i had box off and put it all back together but still had same issue of slight kick going into the low gears so i bleed it all again, but still same i have now changed the master again twice and now wont go into first at all whilst engine running.

i changed the linkage bars but still nothing.

but smooth with engine off i have never had any grinding or crunching whilst changing gears

i did at one point think gear box f***ed but surely it would of gotten worse driving it approx 10000 miles but it didnt. thought overfilled gearbox but drain a little out but was ok.

i never changed the dual mass flywheel does anyone think it could be that???



any ideas as really stuck with ideas now

cheers
 
hello
been having a problem for some time now, last year my master cylinder went so i replaced that but never seemed right as was getting a kick when going into 1st and sometimes 2nd i bleed the clutch but still same so i assumed clutch was on its way out.

anyway about 10 months later clutch slave went so i changed the complete clutch whilst i had box off and put it all back together but still had same issue of slight kick going into the low gears so i bleed it all again, but still same i have now changed the master again twice and now wont go into first at all whilst engine running.

i changed the linkage bars but still nothing.

but smooth with engine off i have never had any grinding or crunching whilst changing gears

i did at one point think gear box f***ed but surely it would of gotten worse driving it approx 10000 miles but it didnt. thought overfilled gearbox but drain a little out but was ok.

i never changed the dual mass flywheel does anyone think it could be that???



any ideas as really stuck with ideas now

cheers

Sounds like synchros in gearbox to me, just a layman here!!
 
how many miles had clutch and dual mass done? ,you should really do both at the same time unless some unusal reason for very early clutch change ,vehicles with dual mass have clutch plates with no springs or damping as in conventional plate as dual mass does this much more effectively due to its size , its possible to put much better damping of transmission into it than a small plate ,modern diesels produce harsh torque ,when you put it into gear the flywheel face can rotate against springs and removes the shock as these wear it becomes loose
 
how many miles had clutch and dual mass done? ,you should really do both at the same time unless some unusal reason for very early clutch change ,vehicles with dual mass have clutch plates with no springs or damping as in conventional plate as dual mass does this much more effectively due to its size , its possible to put much better damping of transmission into it than a small plate ,modern diesels produce harsh torque ,when you put it into gear the flywheel face can rotate against springs and removes the shock as these wear it becomes loose

I'd listen to JM as I've never owned a dual mass flywheel:)
 
how many miles had clutch and dual mass done? ,you should really do both at the same time unless some unusal reason for very early clutch change ,vehicles with dual mass have clutch plates with no springs or damping as in conventional plate as dual mass does this much more effectively due to its size , its possible to put much better damping of transmission into it than a small plate ,modern diesels produce harsh torque ,when you put it into gear the flywheel face can rotate against springs and removes the shock as these wear it becomes loose

hello
the original clutch had done 70'000 miles. i was having issues going into 1st n 2nd gears where i had a bit of a kick as if the clutch wasn't fully engaging. i changed the master but still same.

then after few months the slave collapsed so i changed it along with new clutch & pressure plate. but still the same issues.

some times it goes into gears great other its a bugger, seems to get harder when engine warms up but if i pump the clutch most times it goes in for a short while.

its as if i have a clutch leak but have no signs of fluid at joints, pedal or coming from bell housing.

when clutch was changed the flywheel looked ok from a novice view no damage to the face or teeth

cheers
 
you have to feel it even then it can be hard to tell ,unless totally buggered , try changing box and put some new mtf in , does pedal have much free play ?
 
point is you shouldn't put a new clutch disc on an old surface, it will be hard and glazed even tho it looks good, and will not allow the clutch plate to bed in.
 
if it was slipping i wouldn't mind as much as atleast its a starting point, just dont fancy swapping box over and it not being that plus a waste of money lol
cheers
 
What oil did you use.

hello

75w90 semi

to be honest cant see it being that, it all started with my master cylinder failed at the pedal car was great before changed master and been kick at 1st/2nd gears ever since, then slave gave way months later.

does anyone know if ever been a problem with the pedal itself ??? bending or something ???

cheers
 
hello

75w90 semi

to be honest cant see it being that, it all started with my master cylinder failed at the pedal car was great before changed master and been kick at 1st/2nd gears ever since, then slave gave way months later.

does anyone know if ever been a problem with the pedal itself ??? bending or something ???

cheers


I'm fairly sure it should be MTF90 or ATF, normal gear oil is to heavy and would most likely give the symptoms you're experiencing. :)
 
.....

does anyone know if ever been a problem with the pedal itself ??? bending or something ???

cheers

Not necessarily the same problem, but my clutch bite point had been very low since I owned the car, to the point where it is sometimes reluctant to go into first. No amount of bleeding helped this (I now have a small air leak into the system somewhere as it needs bled every two months) so I cut off the pin that the master cylinder push rod clips into on the pedal and re-welded it a couple of mm closer to the bulkhead, which has had the effect of raising the bite point up to a respectable level.

Its a two minute job (fiddly though!) to get the pedal off, so if I had your problems, I would bag a spare pedal from a breakers and try that before taking the box out again.
 
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