Nanocom to Diagnose Air Suspension Fault

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frostymorning

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Scottish Borders
Does anyone have any experience of using a Nanocom Evolution to diagnose faults with the air suspension on a Discovery 2.

I've just got myself a Nanocom, but I'm having difficulties interpreting the results of my tests.... voltage readings across the valves and relay.... and I'm not even sure if I'm using it correctly..........

Thanks.
 
I use this tool really often and I´m really pleased with the results.

(but I think I`m the only one on this planet ;-))
 
Well that's very encouraging to hear Ahaggar.... but have you ever used it to diagose faults on the air suspension or to inflate the bags?

I'm having a few problems and would appreciate some guidance.

Thanks.
 
I have deleted the faults and inflated the bags and everything else.

The only bug that I found by now is the well known issue with the transport mode.
Avoid to store the Settings in the menu with the point " Transport mode"

If you want to change the ride high go to Utility and use the rise and lower options.
Then store your high directly inside the Utility menu.

Sorry for the easy English, It isn't my first language.

When I got the NC in spring of last year I learned how to use it in a proper :) way.
Plug it in, try every window, drain the battery, find the bugs and then use the rest of the day for finding solutions.

If you have any troubles feel free to ask
 
Thanks for the offer of help Ahaggar. I had read about the "Transport" problem before and I'm aware of that.

I think I must have some kind of electrical problem. My problem is I've never used Nanocom on the SLS while it was working properly, so I don't know what responses I should get to the various tests.

When I try to inflate the bags, the compressor appears to run for 5 seconds and then I get a message "Test Complete". This happens for both the left and right suspension units no matter how many times I try to inflate them.

The readings I'm getting across all the three valves is 0.00V or 0.06 V, whether the compressor is running or not. And I'm getting a reading of 0.20V across the relay.

None of these seem right to me, but I'm not sure what these readings are telling me.

I'm going to continue this thread in the Air Suspension - Definitive Guide thread in the hope that someone else may have come across this problem... and that any solution I get may be of use to other owners.

Thanks.
 
hi,
i have just received a nanocom evo today.

i can get my air suspension to raise/lower etc. i just needed to get the level sorted which i have done.
what is your issue with your suspension
 
My issue is that I can't get any of the valves to open. When I start up the engine, the compressor runs briefly but neither of the inlet valves open and there appears to be no voltage across them. Then after a few seconds the compressor stops working.

The car is sitting low due to a leak in one of the bags, so the bags definitely need inflating and the sensors appear to be working fine.

Looks to me like a wiring or ECU fault and I was hoping someone might give me some guidance about what tests I can run to identify the fault.

I have now got some documentation regarding the wiring and possible ECU faults and I'm going to have another go at resolving the issue tomorrow... but a little help with a recommended sequence of tests would be much appreciated.
 
My issue is that I can't get any of the valves to open. When I start up the engine, the compressor runs briefly but neither of the inlet valves open and there appears to be no voltage across them. Then after a few seconds the compressor stops working.

The car is sitting low due to a leak in one of the bags, so the bags definitely need inflating and the sensors appear to be working fine.

Looks to me like a wiring or ECU fault and I was hoping someone might give me some guidance about what tests I can run to identify the fault.

I have now got some documentation regarding the wiring and possible ECU faults and I'm going to have another go at resolving the issue tomorrow... but a little help with a recommended sequence of tests would be much appreciated.


You have got ALL DOORS FIRMLY CLOSED HAVEN'T YOU?
 
Well i didnt think you could do that sort of stuff on the nanocom. apart from calibrate the height and input the required height. I havnt looked into the compressor settings or valves yet as I havnt needed to.
If you have a leaking airbag it would only drop on the side that's leaking. Not both.
I would sort the leak out first as you may need a new pump as its been running all the time when driving.
Sorry I can't help more.
 
Thanks thebiglad, but that was my first thought. I don't think you can imagine how many times I have gone around that vehicle opening and shutting all the doors...... Also the Nanocom says that the door switch is closed.
 
The car is sitting low due to a leak in one of the bags, so the bags definitely need inflating and the sensors appear to be working fine.

Fix your leak first, before you burn your compressor out. A £60 fix or £60 + £250 for a new compressor.
 
Thanks guys, but I know the bags need replacing. I had already bought new bags and new sensors, BUT........ on the Friday evening before I was going to replace them the car developed this additional fault. And there is no danger of the compressor burning out coz it's only running for a few seconds. That is part of the problem. The other is the valves won't open.

Was going to have a look at the wiring this weekend but the drive has turned into a mudbath and it's probably not that great an idea trying to trace an electrical fault in driving rain.

Basically my query is:

How can I test the compressor is working properly. It's running, but only for a few seconds at atime.
If the compressor is working properly, how can I test the wiring to the valves?
If that's OK, how can I test the ECU?

Probably won't get a chance now to look at it until next weekend.

Thanks.
 
Thanks guys, but I know the bags need replacing. I had already bought new bags and new sensors, BUT........ on the Friday evening before I was going to replace them the car developed this additional fault. And there is no danger of the compressor burning out coz it's only running for a few seconds. That is part of the problem. The other is the valves won't open.

Was going to have a look at the wiring this weekend but the drive has turned into a mudbath and it's probably not that great an idea trying to trace an electrical fault in driving rain.

Basically my query is:

How can I test the compressor is working properly. It's running, but only for a few seconds at atime.
If the compressor is working properly, how can I test the wiring to the valves?
If that's OK, how can I test the ECU?

Probably won't get a chance now to look at it until next weekend.

Thanks.

Go into slabs on nanocom, ignition on. Go into outputs sls and you can test left and right valve, exhaust valve and compressor. Stand outside vehicle and work through open drivers window, All doors shut
 
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there must be a menu for circuit tests in nanocom which will let you inflate the bags through the tester each side at once or both together ...if you'll be able to do that and then the heights of the sensors inputs will be correctly stored the system must work...unless the ECU is faulty
 
Done all that.

With the engine on and running, all I get when I test the valves are readings of 0.00V or 0.06V. And the reading across the relay is 0.20V. Same readings with ORM selected... or when using Nanocom to inflate the bags. Zilch. Nothing. The fuse is ok and the relay seems to be ok. That's why I'm thinking it must be a wiring or ECU fault.

I can't even use Nanocom to lower the one good bag. The exhaust valve won't open and I'm getting the same reading of 0.00V or 0.06V.

I've opened and shut all the doors many times over and the Nanocom confirms the door switch is "Closed", so it can't be that either.

I'm beginning to lose my sense of humour..............
 
Thanks sierrafery, that's what I was beginning to suspect. Any ideas on how I can test the ECU if I pull it out? I've got details of which pins are connected to the valves.

Or is it really a job for an auto electrician ...if I can get one to come out into the wilds... or for my main dealer?
 
Water ingress or corrosion at the slabs ecu plugs it's quite common... did you read the fault codes? were there any codes stored? if a "compressor duty cycle exceeded" code is stored it might disturb the system... or if you worked within the compressor housing make sure that the plugs there are not mixed, cos it could happen
 
Thanks again for the ongoing advice sierrafery.

There were no fault codes stored and I haven't touched any of the components inside the compressor housing yet. Just a visual inspection.

I'll take a look at the ecu plugs as soon as I get a chance. The weather at the moment doesn't exactly favour electrical work outdoors. Guess that's my fault for buying a vehicle that's too tall to go in my garage...........

And I'm curious to know how water ingress is such a common problem... given that the ecu lives under the glove box..............
 
The slabs ecu self tests when you ignition on. It will even tell you if the earth to the ecu is bad etc. If you suspect the valve connectors are bad, unplug them one at a time and read the fault codes when you ignition on.
 
Not much progress due to the freezing weather. Highest temperature today was -1........

The only fault code I get when I switch the ignition on relates to a faulty ABS sensor on the hub that was replaced by a garage a couple of months ago. Not relevant to my current problem, but something for me to take up with the garage when I'm up and running........ No fault codes at all for the SLS.

Spent the day trying to get the plugs off the ECU. Got all off bar the one to the SLS. They looked clean enough, but the fact I can't get this plug off may be relevant. Any suggestions on how to remove a sticky plug. I'm depressing the retaining clip, but it just won't budge. And I don't want to use too much brute force in case I break the thing.

Not tested the valve connectors yet. Will try that tomorrow if it doesn't snow too heavily overnight. Why do these things never go wrong in the summer?

Changed the height sensors, as I was intending to do that before my current difficulties. Was going to change the air suspension units too, but maybe not such a good idea until I've got a way to inflate them. Or can someone suggest a way to inflate the suspension units with a standalone compressor?

Thanks for your help.
 
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