eas valve block rebuild

Evening. I have a eas block and a seal kit from the Netherlands.
Questions:
What is the best way to clean the block faces ? Meths, denatured alcohol ?
Would spraying the seals with silicone lube before they are fitted help in the long run.
I have read someone put one in a dishwasher, not convinced on that one.
Any sensible advice much appreciated ( on valve blocks that is )

The problem for the seals leaking is down to a build up of the white powder from a failed piston seal. And this causes the diaphragm seal to be clogged up ensure you have that seal to replace in the kit.
I strip and clean with brake spray and a hi pressure air line which does a rather good job and gets all the gunk out.
Replace the air dryer to as this gets the powder in it to from the failed piston seal.
The kit is use from p38a spares comes with a grease for the seals but I have found fitting all dry is fine too, if you are doing it do the comp piston seal so all is done and cleaned out

This is a very good guide to rebuilding the EAS valve block
Hope it helps

Don't get the compressor parts from the lot in the Netherlands, it's crap.
Unless the block is full of white powder, a simple blow job with an airline is sufficient. Make sure you work on a clean surface, lay out the pieces methodically as they are not all the same and must go back in the right order as must the coils.

Datatek said:

a simple blow job with an airline is sufficient.

Click to expand...

Matron!

I rebuilt mine late last year and agree that the diaphragm kit from the Netherlands is poor. I got a replacement from a guy "Symalise" off Ebay which was much better. Make a note of which way the old one fits in the recess. Alcohol is fine for cleaning the block and valves and a smear of silicone grease or Parkers "O" ring lube is fine on the "O" rings, the slightest smear is all that's needed.
Dont make the same mistake as I did and just strip the solenoid valves off and put them in a "Pile"..there are three different types used and the bases and poppets are not the same, so identify which valve goes where and strip and rebuild one at a time. Finally, don't overtighten the solenoud valve screws or you will strip the threads, you can use a drop of LOW strength Loctite.
The guide "Enery" refers to is great, download and save the PDF to your computer for reference.

Thanks all. The compressor was replaced in the last 12 months, but i will take note for any future rebuild. I wasn't convinced by some of the guides saying to use vaseline, any petroleum based product is not good on rubber o rings ( i know that last sentence all sounds a bit dodgy).

bigsmellydaddy said:

Thanks all. The compressor was replaced in the last 12 months, but i will take note for any future rebuild. I wasn't convinced by some of the guides saying to use vaseline, any petroleum based product is not good on rubber o rings ( i know that last sentence all sounds a bit dodgy).

Click to expand...

Just depends on what the O rings are made from. A very, very small amount of silicone grease won't do any harm and will help them to bed. MS4 is good.

The white powder that gets into the valve block comes from the dryer.
If you are doing a rebuild it is a good idea to take the dryer apart and pour out the desiccant from one container to another to get rid of the fines. Preferably on a windy day.
Then microwave the desiccant to make sure it is bone dry.

dave4x4 said:

The white powder that gets into the valve block comes from the dryer.
If you are doing a rebuild it is a good idea to take the dryer apart and pour out the desiccant from one container to another to get rid of the fines. Preferably on a windy day.
Then microwave the desiccant to make sure it is bone dry.

Click to expand...

Tight git, better to buy a new dryer that will be good for another 10 years than **** about and end up blaming the EAS when it goes tits up.

Right, taken apart and rebuilt, refitted. Lets see what the morning brings..............