Moving oil

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DougR

DougR

New Member
Posts
67
Location
Kent
Hi all,

About to do an oil change and move to 5w30 fully synthetic. Looking at oils some say made for ford or vectra etc. surley as long as it acea B1-B5 it should be ok. The only reason I ask is there is a difference in price, even though it's the same manufacturer and viscosity.

Very confused.

Any help would be appreciated. I know didley squat about oil.
 
Cheers that's the B1-B5 bit isn't it? I believe A1-A5 is petrol. Some say they are both A and B is that ok.
 
As long as its same grade and meets same specs you are fine. most oil comes from same place and just stuck in different bottles.

main one to wartch for is modern engines with DPFs fitted. if you dont you buy a "low soot" content oil then it will **** the the DPF and cost a lot to sort.
 
I didn't even know you could get low soot oils. Sadly I've always followed the oil make that the manufacturers told me to. However the Landy is 11 years old and me thinks things have moved on a little. This the swot to fully synth. So I take it low soot is better for my little TD5?
 
They dont have DPFs fitted as far as im aware. keep to the same spec and just change it every 6k(my opinion) with the filter.
 
DougR said:
Hi all,

About to do an oil change and move to 5w30 fully synthetic. Looking at oils some say made for ford or vectra etc. surley as long as it acea B1-B5 it should be ok. The only reason I ask is there is a difference in price, even though it's the same manufacturer and viscosity.

Very confused.

Any help would be appreciated. I know didley squat about oil.
Click to expand...

ACEA Sequences

B5 has slightly better anti-wear properties than B1, but usually much more expensive since its made from higher quality stocks (true synthetic). Bit of an overkill for the Td5.

Would stay with a "synthetic" B1, going for the highest possible ILSAC grade (GF-5 better than GF-4 better then GF-3). Also 5W30 is the right viscosity IMO.

HTH
 
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