Sticky brake....?

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Hi all,

After a short run this evening of about 8 miles I got home and drove forwards onto my drive which slopes downwards. While the engine was still running I popped it into "N" and took my foot off the brake to just let it roll slightly forwards but nothing happened!

I then put it into drive and took my foot off the brake slowly. When I did this the freebie moved forward about an inch or two and then stopped. Eager to find out what this was I pulled the handbrake, popped into "P", turned it all off and went inside to grab a torch.

I shone the torch underneath and placed my hand on the VCU as I remembered someone saying that if the VCU was hot after a short run then it could be faulty. It was only slightly warm and I'd have comfortably been able to hold my hand there for many minutes if I needed to. Then I had the idea to check the wheels so I went around the freebie, placing my hand on each of the wheels in turn. Three were cold but the passenger side rim was hot - So much so that if I'd left my hand there for a few seconds it would have given me a burn.

Finding this, I shone my torch at the rim and found that the brake pad appeared to be against the disc (didn't see a gap) and when comparing this to the drivers' side one, the passenger side had only about half the pad thickness.

It seems as if it's sticking somewhat and may have been doing this for quite some time (hence the worn brake pad).

Any ideas as to what may cause this and how it is to be fixed? I'm going to have to get the pads changed tomorrow or Tuesday anyway now but I'm wondering if there is something simple that I can do to ensure that it won't just happen to the new set.

Thanks in advance,

Andy.
 
sounds like sticking caliper or rusty slide pins. check none of the rubbers are perished on the slide pins. repair kits are readily available in both eventualities..you've prob noticed it may have been pulling the vehicle slighty to that side while driving?
 
Finding this, I shone my torch at the rim and found that the brake pad appeared to be against the disc (didn't see a gap) and when comparing this to the drivers' side one, the passenger side had only about half the pad thickness.

There should be no visible gap between the pad and disc as the pads should be in permanent contact, it could be that the other side caliper or piston has seized leaving all the front braking to the hot side.
 
Finding this, I shone my torch at the rim and found that the brake pad appeared to be against the disc (didn't see a gap) and when comparing this to the drivers' side one, the passenger side had only about half the pad thickness.

There should be no visible gap between the pad and disc as the pads should be in permanent contact, it could be that the other side caliper or piston has seized leaving all the front braking to the hot side.

I agree - this is quite likely and what upstream is seeing is the back-plate close to the disc.

So perhaps almost no pad thickness left. :(

This is not good as he has only just bought it and the brakes should have been checked by the dealer/garage.

This is very unsafe - but I think he's getting it checked / repaired today.
 
Hi all,

Thank you for your insightful comments. This afternoon I visited a local garage (not the one I bought it from). The mechanic had a quick look and it has been booked in for Friday morning. Between now and then I expect I'll cover under 40 miles or so - so all should be well until then hopefully.

Interestingly the issue seems to be intermittent because although the problem was visible again this morning, when I stopped just now and popped it into neutral, the freebie started to move off due to the light incline. Also the front passenger side rim was warm but not hot.

Anyone know what a caliper might cost (assuming it is that)?

Thanks,

Andy.
 
Let's hope it doesn't come to that.

Keep your fingers crossed the pistons and / or sliders can be freed up.

New rubbers and seals kits are also available - new calliper is a last resort.

You may need a new set of discs if they are badly scored.

S.
 
The replacement caliper (less the surcharge) and a brake fluid change came to £159 at a local 'Quick-fit' garage.

They're on the same site as a Land Rover Dealership - the quick-fit mechanics just pop across to ask the LR trained guys if there is any problems, a great arrangement in my opinion!

My thoughts were "It's the brakes; My five year old grandson travels in this car; they have to be done!"

It feels great to drive again now, and the mpg is returning to the deep end of the 30's again!
 
I had the same prob a sticky calliper it was just because the pads were worn causing the piston to come too far out,
Replace the pads and put plenty of copper grease on everything but the disc, should solve the problem.
If all else fails a new calliper is only £25
 
I had the same prob a sticky calliper it was just because the pads were worn causing the piston to come too far out,
Replace the pads and put plenty of copper grease on everything but the disc, should solve the problem.
If all else fails a new calliper is only £25

£25 for a calliper...? I rang a 4 x 4 breaker this morning just in case and they quoted £45 ex VAT!

Andy.
 
I realise my work cost more than that, but I wouldn't entertain using secondhand or salvaged parts in the braking system.

And remember, the heat generated by the friction during the fault condition can do 'hidden' damage too, so having the work done by my garage obviously included labour charges, but is gauranteed for 3 months against re-occurance.

(Gone are the days when my health would've allowed me to do this myself....ho hum!)
 
I realise my work cost more than that, but I wouldn't entertain using secondhand or salvaged parts in the braking system.

And remember, the heat generated by the friction during the fault condition can do 'hidden' damage too, so having the work done by my garage obviously included labour charges, but is gauranteed for 3 months against re-occurance.

(Gone are the days when my health would've allowed me to do this myself....ho hum!)

I think that you may have got a bargain there - I wouldn't do my own brakes either so if that price included a brand new calliper plus all the fitting etc it sounds more than reasonable.

Just a quick question though... what was the surcharge you mentioned and what was it for?
 
Like most major components, the supplier makes a surcharge, which is refundable if you return the faulty component to them.

I don't actually know what figure the surcharge was, as all the invoice said was "Surcharge" followed on the next line by "Surcharge Refunded" with no figures in the cost column. Sorry.
 
How much did it end up costing you?

:mooning:it will surely cost more than a decent set of spanners and a good jack .You bought the wrong brand of motor if you intend getting a mechanic to do all the work .

You should consider it as an ongoing project and if your not going to get the wheel off, open the calliper and check the codition of the guide pins armed with sandpaper and copper grease .BURN IT .:(.
 
Just a quick update...

It's all fixed now. A local garage did it at a cost of £65 which included a new set of pads. I'm not against doing some work myself but when it comes to something where the function is an essential safety feature, I'd rather spend the money and have peace of mind that when I go out in it on my own - or with my family, that I'm likely to get home again without incident.

Andy.
 
I do not do much myself these day owing to a bad back but I have a great son in law and I would never use used parts on Brakes it is your life and anyone you have in the car with you I would never forgive myself for a few extra quid
 
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