EGR on Freelander Di

Hello,
there is a lot of info about EGR on the Td4 engine, however on the Di it is almost inexistent.
concerned about the images I've seen of completlly obstructed valves, I've decided to take a look at it,



some gimnastics, an Allen e care for the bolts not falling on the sump guard and it comes off




surprise, instead of the "ooze" I was expecting the valve is pretty much dry and only some coal dust and grains, understandablle since it has made 200k km.



is it because:
instead of a butterfly this EGR has a piston valve,
since it is mounted on top of the collector it alows the oils to slip and be expelled through the exaust,
could someone with more experience and knowledge share some light on this?

I'm still considering about blinding the EGR but I would like to hear some opinion about it before doing the job.

best regards
Miguel Baptista

Try here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/discovery-ultimate-egr-guide-46089.html

thanks for the link Lazydog, some of those I had already read but they are mostly about Discos and Td5, there is plenty on the Td4 also, wonder if someone has done it on the old Rover engine that fits the earlier Freelander, pretty sure someone must have.
Since I'm blanking the EGR there is no use in keeping the EGR cooler so I was thinking of bipassing/removing it to, but how will it afect the cooling sistem, I guess it will be no harm but really needed someone who had done it to clear my mind of these questions.

The cooler is for the turbo not egr :doh:

now I'm even more confused, part 15 of the diagram

I was considering something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-blank...s=63&clkid=5352720111538539694#ht_1506wt_1185
the way I see it when the EGR opens some exaust gas comes in throug the botom of that part and throug the hose that is protected with the metal mesh (1st foto) back into the intake, by blinding the EGR I am covering the colector and the intake so all that is between could come of.

I will leave this one mate to the freelander experts one will be along soon

up
is there a Freelander Expert in the house?

I bought something like this EGR blanking plate KIT ROVER 220 25 420 45 MG ZR ZS FREELANDER STREETWISE HONDA | eBay and fitted it to my L series after removing the EGR. When it came off I checked inside and it was probably dirtier that the pics you have posted, although not all tarred up or jammed like some horror stories online say.

Anything that may help low down torque and the turbo spin up at low revs is welcome, and for 8 quid what's the worst that can happen!?

Maybe an "expert" can come on and flame that statement now though...! On a TD4 the mod makes little real world difference however (or so LRO magazine said in a question answer a few issues back)

Sorry, in answer to the cooling questions above:

The complete kit comes with a small pipe that simply joins the coolant pipes together where the EGR used to sit. The EGR no longer needs to be cooled, but the coolant flow is therefore un-interupted and doesn't effect anything else with the engine or cooling. The unsupported pipes can then be zip tied securely away.

have just ordered a egr removel kit for the L series, has anyone done the mod yet and what was the result? Mark

I did the EGR at weekend brilliant.
It let the car respond better and great.
This extra bit of rev finally killed a heater coolent pipe ,so i changed that for a silicone one i was lucky to have and near exact match of a st220 mondeo.
It runs great ,then i changed my servo as the old one was getting vacumm but no assistance .
This worked but on the test run a fault started.
Its like you have to tease the accelerater pedal to get going.
it will run but if you put your foot down ,it runs out of diesel and starts looking like its going to cut out.
I bled under the fuel filter but is there some sort of fuel rail bleeding valve.
Its intermediat fault and i believe its some sort of air in the sustem.

Looking like it was the brake light switch.
Ive ordered a new one and having it fitted today.

I was talking to an ex Rover technician (sounds better than mechanic) the other day about the EGR and removing it from my 2.0 L series.. He said not to bother removing it but just block the vacuum tube with a ball bearing or similar.

brulynn said:

I was talking to an ex Rover technician (sounds better than mechanic) the other day about the EGR and removing it from my 2.0 L series.. He said not to bother removing it but just block the vacuum tube with a ball bearing or similar.

Click to expand...

that is one way people do it but if you spend a little money i paid 8.50 for my removal kit

Yep defo take it of.It doesn't take long and as long as you use a good quiality allen key all will be good.
I like the way it opens up the space so the other pipes around can be checked on.

hi just doing mine now which vacume pipe and which end? im guessing its the one to the turbo area/exh manifold?
ta

EGR Blanking Kit for MG Rover 25 ZR 45 ZS L-series Diesel Engine | eBay
in the diagram for this kit i havnt removed the egr just the top pipe and blanked that will that work?

thequeenscheese said:

hi just doing mine now which vacume pipe and which end? im guessing its the one to the turbo area/exh manifold?
ta

Click to expand...

the only one that conects to the EGR

thequeenscheese said:

EGR Blanking Kit for MG Rover 25 ZR 45 ZS L-series Diesel Engine | eBay
in the diagram for this kit i havnt removed the egr just the top pipe and blanked that will that work?

Click to expand...

yes, but if you take it all off you'll get a lot of free room in the engine bay

I dont ttust the bolts at the min until I've got enough down time if one snaps plus dont have any allen key bits lol, do I still need to plug the vacume pipe with it blanked higher up and the egr still on?
Cheers

I dont ttust the bolts at the min until I've got enough down time if one snaps plus dont have any allen key bits lol, do I still need to plug the vacume pipe with it blanked higher up and the egr still on?
Cheers