Removing stupid steering relay

Right i have to get this steering relay sorted as it is all that is left to do before i put it up for sale.

Over the past 3 days ive been soaking it in WD40
I removed the top and bottom steering arms
I removed the lower collar (held in with four bolts)
I removed the two stiffest bolts in the world that go through the relay

I then used a jack and a large socket and i have jacked underneath the relay till the drivers side wheel is off of the ground.

I have now just poured half a can of brake fluid on it (best penetrating oil around)
And also used a sledge hammer on the chassis dumb iron but it still refuses to move.

Anyone have anymore ideas?

not good really but i have had to cut them out and replace crossmember

Hmm - there are two options. Replace the innards in situ or angle grind the chassis off the relay and replace the chassis. I've done both.
You could try some plusgas or similar penetrating fluid (WD40 isn't that good) and a bigger hammer. Or a length of chain and a trolley jack - wrap the chain around the chassis and the jack and try to push the relay out.
It seems they come off fairly easily or not at all!

I have a new one ready to fit in. The problem with mine is that it has a serious amount of play in it. Is it possible to swap the internals and bushes from my new one into the old one?

you replied at the same time i posted. Do i need special tool to do the innards as there is a seriously large spring in there.

You can swap the innards but be careful. Hammer the innards out of the old one into a sack or old coffee tin to keep the bits from flying about. Carefully dismantle the new one. Using a jubilee clip positioned around the bush nearest to the middle of the shaft, clamp the bushes on one end of the shaft, close to the middle so the taper will let you slide the bush into the relay. Now the difficult bit. Fit the spring, loosely fit the bushes with another jubilee clip and compress with a length of tubing over the loose end of the shaft (I did this on my own with a jury rig involving a trolley jack on its side - using a vice and a second person is probably best). When the bush is in position and the spring is compressed tighten the second jubilee clip - it should be positioned away from the centre of the shaft.
Apply liberal amounts of EP90. Place the shaft into the old relay as far as the jubilee clip allows, remove the jubilee clip and gently drive the shaft into the relay housing until the second jubilee clip can be removed, drive in all the way. I did this from the bottom using a trolley jack and a piece of tube so the force was applied on the bush, not the shaft. The upper ridge inside the housing stops the upper bush from popping out the top and once the lower bush is in far enough the lower ridge retains it. It's well worth wearing eye protection just in case!

I changed one years ago, by splitting it and removing the innards, once empty I applied heat from a blow torch inside, it came out after this treatment. And as someone has said already be carefull of the spring.

Get some big strong git with a sledge hammer and a good aim and batter the chassis with bottle jack under the bottom of the relay.
It worked for me

There's a vid floating about on youtube of some dutch (?) chap using a puller and a fook off breaker bar.....

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2OL9DXTPx0"]Land Rover Serie - Steering relay extraction - the easy way out - YouTube[/ame]

afters yer undo the bolts , drive two tapered steel chisels from either direction one either sidd on the flats of the chassis, drive them in till it moves only quarter of an inch then spray with oil or brake fluid, then tap back down with a rubber 'ammer, repeat a couple of times till the oil has worked its way round and down, might take a bit, once its moving, and lifted above the bolt holes, start turning it to left and right clearing the ****e from the steel of the chassis collar, mine went the same way in the end, took a hour or so , saved choppin the chassis tho, took one out last week , piece of ****, undid bolts and lifted it out , was in since 1962, some yer win some are a bastard !

A sudden belt from a hammer will be better than a slow lift with a jack. Diesel is the best penetrating fluid I am aware of.

Right ive decided to leave it overnight under pressure and see if anything has changed by morning. If not im going to rebuild it in the chassis.

Fact of the day series 1,2 and some 2a relays were greased from the factory which is why they are easier to remove that the stupid series 3 ones

Well the good news is I got all the internals swapped over and it works spot on now. The bad news is my land rover is now stuck in my field full of logs on a steep as muddy clay hill lol. And its way to dark to attempt to drive it out

I did mine a while back, using a similar method to the vid, only I welded some angles onto the chassis to put the legs of the puller onto, and the puller was a 10 ton hydraulic job, it didnt have enough power to shift the relay more than an inch so I wriggled the sticking up bit of the relay with the biggest pair of stillys you've seen while maintaining max pressure on the pullers and squirted it with wd every couple of minutes, it came out in the end, you couldnt touch it was that hot.