half shaft or diff?

was doing a bit of offloading earlier in and out of difflock (transfer box lock) i think at some point i heard a clunk, when i took it out of difflock it wouldn't drive it was just making a grinding noise, the front prop was just spinning. so what could this be, the half shaft or the diff or something else and what would i be looking at to fix it myself? it seems that as soon as one thing is sorted something else goes :doh:

oh and is it ok to drive it at the moment in difflock as it will still drive?

sounds like half shaft & yes it's ok to drive with difflock engaged just don't try any high speed jinks in it.

You can drive in difflock for miles but remove the front prop first. Sounds like a half shaft to me but can't be too sure from here.

Beaten by Fasthand Redhand ... damn!

He's well-known for his 5 knuckle shuffle.

The hand is faster than the eye..

storm99 said:

He's well-known for his 5 knuckle shuffle.

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Thought he borrowed Mintys hand for that?

thanks for the speedy replies, wasn't expecting them that quick, so would the half shaft be rounded, they seem quite tough to me so would it have damaged anything else and would it just be a job of replacing it or would it be some other stuff E.T.C.?

olim said:

thanks for the speedy replies, wasn't expecting them that quick, so would the half shaft be rounded, they seem quite tough to me so would it have damaged anything else and would it just be a job of replacing it or would it be some other stuff E.T.C.?

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Lift a wheel and spin one at a time, you will know what one is broke, but the diff is gona have to come out to get the coont out.

ouch i was hoping that it was broken the wheel end so it would be easy to get out, would i have to take the axle off or can it be done on the car? is it fairly straight forward or is there a guide i could follow.

help appreciated oli

If it is the halfshaft and it's broken inside, try a decent magnet on a metal rod to try and pull it out

half shaft is a piece of ****, take the wheel off, take the 5 bolts off the drive flange (pentogon shapped thing), take the hub nut then locker washer the the other hub nut off. undo the front of the caliper and slide the disc off then just pull the half shaft out. Im sure you have to take the disc off, but i could be wrong, i cant remember

gil said:

half shaft is a piece of ****, take the wheel off, take the 5 bolts off the drive flange (pentogon shapped thing), take the hub nut then locker washer the the other hub nut off. undo the front of the caliper and slide the disc off then just pull the half shaft out. Im sure you have to take the disc off, but i could be wrong, i cant remember

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D'ye mean summit along these lines?

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/cv-joint-renewal-68945.html

yeh buster lol.

gil said:

half shaft is a piece of ****, take the wheel off, take the 5 bolts off the drive flange (pentogon shapped thing), take the hub nut then locker washer the the other hub nut off. undo the front of the caliper and slide the disc off then just pull the half shaft out. Im sure you have to take the disc off, but i could be wrong, i cant remember

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I wish they always broke at the hub end, personally never done one that has though. All the ones I have done on trucks have broken at the diff end and got stuck in the diff. The energy that broke the shaft can twist the shaft a little making it stick in the splines anorl.

But be optimistic it might be the hub end, and failing that the big magnet option might work.

If you need to take the diff out it's both halfshafts out, the propshaft off and a few bolts around the diff, drain the oil and heh presto.

Remember to chock the wheels since the brake wont do fokal jacked up.

david451 said:

If you need to take the diff out it's both halfshafts out, the propshaft off and a few bolts around the diff, drain the oil and heh presto.

Remember to chock the wheels since the brake wont do fokal jacked up.

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Spot on - but suggest drain the oil first, and be prepared to use a big hammer to separate the diff casing from the axle!

Took my diff off this morning - that was the worst part!!!

Oh, and nuts on the diff casing are probably 9/16" rather than 13mm - no point rounding them off and creating more fun for yourself

they are 9/16 3/8 unf same as prop bolts

ok so i have attempted to have a look today but couldn't unbolt the calliper because of the type of bolt that was holding it on, i can't remember the name but it has lots of sides and the sides are curved inwards. does anyone know the size of this so that i can try and get hold of a single one?

I removed the front prop today as well, i twisted the bit on the diff that the prop attaches to and the half shaft was actually spinning at the end of the wheel but the wheel didn't spin , does this mean anything? and is it ok to drive locally like this with just the back prop?

olim said:

ok so i have attempted to have a look today but couldn't unbolt the calliper because of the type of bolt that was holding it on, i can't remember the name but it has lots of sides and the sides are curved inwards. does anyone know the size of this so that i can try and get hold of a single one?

I removed the front prop today as well, i twisted the bit on the diff that the prop attaches to and the half shaft was actually spinning at the end of the wheel but the wheel didn't spin , does this mean anything? and is it ok to drive locally like this with just the back prop?

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from memory use a 13mm bi hex

ok could someone else also confirm this before i order it?