TD5 Auto gearbox

Hi all, i took my 1999 TD5 Auto to local garage to have gearbow oil and filter changed as car done 125k mileage and was told by Land rover agent that auto gearbox oil was due a change at 120K ad i dont know if it ever was?
Have use this local garage many times for different bits and bobs, recently ABS sensor change, and when i went to collect it and take round block for quick spin, i noticed immediately on engaging reverse i was on slight slope and reverse didnt hold the car and it edges forward. The spin round the block was awful, absolutely no power/drive at all, well barely, so took it back and they said they would look at again this morning.

when i went to see them, they said that the filter they had been supplied with was wrong and that they changed it and put more new oil in.
To be fair the car pulls well now, but ive noticed on selecting reverse, there is a slight knock/click as it engages which i dont believe was there before!!

would the wrong filter really have caused the lack of drive? and should i be worried by the slight knock/click when selecting reverse?
Am a bit worried by all of this now and wonder whether i should take to LR specialist to have it all done again, this time by LR approved engineers?
thanks

IMO if they were as dumb to mix filters they might have not knew the correct procedure of changing oil in a ZF4HP22 autobox, and u have to be sure it's dexron III in it. You better DIY, mr. U.P. helps www.discovery2.co.uk / Automatic Gearbox Oil and Filter Change

you cant fit wrong filter zf hp22 filters are the same now as they where 20 years ago ,more likely left o ring off as fiter has o ring where it joins valve block and o ring where pick up pipe joins filter ,no o ring or poorly fitted no suction to pick up oil out of sump,oil changes can alter changes etc as oil is highly detergent

Thanks very much for advice and the link was excellent.
For piece of mind and after the cobblers they've obviously told me, do you think i should take to Land Rover specialists and get them to do it again? could well be money well spent eh?:frusty:

i would just check level ,if it works now

Thanks again, but just wondered, like Sierafery, if they told untruth about 'wrong filter', maybe they used incorrect trans fluid???? how would i ever know? :doh:

if your worried get it changed for peace of mind ,nothing worse than a niggle in the back of your mind ,worth getting oil done more regulary than lr state anyhow theres less chance of oil change affecting operation if done regulary ,dexron 2 or 3 either dosent matter dexron 3 hasnt stopped the usualy parts failure that happens when they go wrong still the same as when first fitted in rrc

Sharky21 said:

Thanks very much for advice and the link was excellent.
For piece of mind and after the cobblers they've obviously told me, do you think i should take to Land Rover specialists and get them to do it again? could well be money well spent eh?:frusty:

Click to expand...

if you have money to waste then yes if not follow the advice given

thanks for the advice as always gents :5bcheers2:

Best advise if you cant do it yourself or cant be bothered is to supply the oil yourself and pay the labour charge....

This is what i did only cost me £36 plus vat in labour to change the all the diff oils and transfer box plus the gear box oil...
And i got to watch them do it didnt take them to long using the ramps....

sounds great to me. many thanks fella

evening all
further to the agro i had when a local garage changed my TD5 Auto box fluid, see previous comments, i have to say that once settled down, the gear change is now great.
HOWEVER, and its a huge however, having hooked up my caravan on the arse end to go away for New Year, the car was dreadful. The Auto box seemed to be 'slipping' like mad and i had no power up not that steep hills, and on occassions the gearbox temp light came on.
I am unsure if you have to drive these things any harder when towing, but i gues i was expecting the TD5 to pull anything anywhere?????
I also seemed to have a gearbox oil leak when i parked up when we got to the campsite, which i certainly havnt had before.
I have left the caravan on its site until i can get the Disco booked in at the LR dealer tis week.
Please, has anyone got any ideas what this lack of power or slipping might be??
thanks all

its not necessarily unlikely that oil temp light to come on during towing,slipping depends if you mean toque convertor then no problem unless it wont lock ,if clutches it would or should have burnt them and blackened oil,was this the first time youve towed with it ?oil level correct?they can feel poor till your going fast enough for t/c lock up

@Sharky21, that's someting u can DIY L worth a try, maybe u'll get an answer:

Stall test
$%44.30.1
Testing
1. Chock the wheels and fully apply the
handbrake.
2. Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature.
3. Apply the footbrake and select 'D'.
4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and note
the tachometer reading. The figures should be
as given below. Do not carry out stall test for
longer than 10 seconds, and DO NOT repeat
until 30 minutes have elapsed.
l V8: 2200 to 2400 rev/min
l Diesel: 2600 to 2800 rev/min
5. A reading below 1300 rev/min indicates a
torque converter fault, ie stator free-wheel.
6. A reading between 1300 and 2200 rev/min (V8)
or between 1300 and 2600 rev/min (Diesel)
indicates reduced engine power.
7. A reading above 2400 rev/min (V8) or above
2800 rev/min (Diesel) indicates clutch slip.
NOTE: The figures quoted above were
measured at sea level with an ambient
temperature of 20 °C (68 °F). At higher altitudes
or higher ambient temperatures, these figures
will be reduced.

hi james. I towed with it prior to the box oil change, to cornwall and back. On the way down there i drove it like i would normally do and it really struggled up some of the long drawn out hills and the temp light came on. However, on the way back i drove it a bit harder and made sure that i was in a lower gear before i started the climb. i kept the revs at around 3000 rpm and it climbed the hills at a steady 50 mph with no drop off in speed and no temp light on.
This time, after the oil change i expected it to be better than it was. The gearbox seemed to hang onto the gears longer and thats when the feeling of slipping occurred and the temp light came on. Maybe it was me again not driving it hard enough, but it just didnt feel right.
Im sorry James, im new to these vehicles so dont really understand what you mean buy Torque Converter locking out. How do i know?

hey Sierrafery
Many thanks for this test, i will give it a go. Does it potentially damage anything while you are performing the test?

IMO not as long as u follow the instructions.... it's quoted from the workshop manual

i will give it a go then, thanks again for the advice fella

theres a clutch in t/c that locks giving direct drive so that drive isnt through oil been thrown at a turbine which means engine revs higher than a manual would do as some power is lost and becomes heat,clutch slippage in box will blacken oil ,lock up occurs at 50 -56 ish

thanks James> so i guess i will need to have a look at the oil and see if its blackened. if this is clutch slippage will it have turned the oil black after the trip i just made, approx 100 miles??