gauges

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dockrat

New Member
Posts
248
hi all been busy just latley sorting the 2 a out lots of welding and stuff .i use this vehicle every day now and have been trying to find out why my fuel gauge reads full all the time . its ex army so twin under seat tanks .there are lots of bodges on the wiring and lots of wires behind the clocks that go nowhere.i am thinking it could be the voltage stablizer needs replacing but i have no idea where this is or how to test it .it has never worked since i bought it so its nothing i have done .any adive would be most welcome cheers . dockrat
 
Disconnect the wire from the sender, then measure the volatge on the fuel guage with a multimeter, you should get 10v on both terminals, if not the stabiliser is either knacked or more likely not connected or incorrectly connected.
Then connect the wire that went to the sender to the chassis, the guage should read full, if the guage still reads full with the wire to the sender not cionnected to anything then you have a trapped wire shorting to earth or an incorrect connection.

Does the temp guage work ok?, if so then the stabiliser could be ok and the issue is more likely the sender or wiring.

Look at the schematic and try to make sense of the connections, if its a totall screwup the only way to get it right is do it again.
 
right then have been out all afternoon trying to sort out the wiring .part of the loom under the bonnet has been cut off execpt one which goes to the oil filter .then 2 thin wires and one thick one left hanging down .withno visable connections.
have taken the wires of fuel tank can only see one each side fuel gauge still reads full. is there a way to bypass the loom with new wires direct to the gauge to test if the loom is faulty .fuel gauge has three terminals on it bottem one one goes to the wipers the one next to it one the same terminal i think is live in. the top one what that dose i dont know .there is only fuel gauge and amps in this side .just got me baffeld at the moment
 
Hmm, not a lot I can say without seeing your setup.
3 terminal guages usually operate without a stabiliser, but i wouldnt expect to see one on a series.
Compare what you have to the schematic and see if it makes sense.
Might be worth as you say connecting a wire from the sender to the guage temporarily to see if that works.
Did you meter the sender to see if it presents a varying resistance when moving the float?
 
looking in the haynes manual at the wiring diagram it seems i have a positive earth one as from the back of the fuel gauge there is a wire up to the wiper moter .my battery earth connects to the engine block and the side of the rad housing .poss side goes to heater plugs then round to alternater .i think this was maybe a 24 volt one and its been changed on the cheap or something but most things work so i will keep using it but keep an eye on the fuel .thanks for your help .
 
Ok then.
If you get fed up of that and you cant sort it then there are guage kits you can get for tanks, they are popular for kit cars and boat water tanks, bung one of these on and stick the clock under't dash, they're usually insulated so pos or neg earth is good.
 
yes seen them in a electrical book .just taking to much time on the clocks so doing other jobs that can be done a bit quicker .will go back to them later when i have had a think about them .back at work now so will have to wait untill monday . cheers
 
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