110 Salisbury Axle onto a Series.

If you want to fit a 110 Salisbury (drum) axle to a Series (88" 2a) is it just a case of grinding off the spring points and welding them on at the correct point, or, is it more involved than that? I also assume you'll need extended wheel arches?

This has nothing at all to do with the fact that i've spent 2 weeks doing up a Salisbury axle and came to fix it in today at which point i realised it was not a 109" axle... :doh::doh::doh::doh: (I assume it is a 110 axle... might be wrong?...)

109 mounts would have been in wrong place anyhow ,basically as youve said making sure you get diff angle right presumably axle is 3.54 diff ratio and not 4.7 of series

ah, so it might be a 109 one after all... How do you tell?

Does the different ratio make any difference? Assume if its different to the front the back wheels will go faster than the front ones?

I have a couple already converted from 109 to 88 inch closer spring saddles shocks etc.

I will be fitting one to my 80 inch the diff nose is longer so you have to shorten your propshaft because on full compression i.e propshaft closed the propshaft can bottom out or run out of movement and thus punches you drive flanges/ transferbox bearings which can cause much o damage o to tranny box and diff.

I have successfully fitted a 110 axle to the rear of my 90.

Difference is obviously width and spring saddles if the spring saddle is on top of the axle and has 2 m10 tapped holes in them or circular discs then they are later 110 axles and most likley 3.5:1. If the spring saddles are on the bottom of the axle case and have a single locating pin for the leaf spring then its probably a 109 series salisbury and most likley 4.7:1.

Bump said:

ah, so it might be a 109 one after all... How do you tell?

Does the different ratio make any difference? Assume if its different to the front the back wheels will go faster than the front ones?

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exactlty rear wheels would go 30% ish faster and would need front swapping as well to use 4wd ,i fit quite a few 3.54 diffs in series especially with 200 tdi fitted ,but normally just fit later defender diff parts into earlier case

If you need 3.5:1 I have a defender axle here that I will be taking my Detroit out of to fit in my 4.7:1 which is on my mota. I went from 3.5:1 to 4.7 on my defender. Lonf story.

But I will have a 3.5 gear set kicking about which will go for sale at some point.

ok, so spring mounts are on the bottom which suggests its a 109 axle... so does that mean the diff ratios are ok and i just need to move the spring hangers?

yes

Bump said:

ok, so spring mounts are on the bottom which suggests its a 109 axle... so does that mean the diff ratios are ok and i just need to move the spring hangers?

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yes......unless the diff has been changed.....

Yup but do double check the ratio because so many have been changed. Not lots because its not as easy as the usual landy home mechanic job but it is doable.


I did a few pics when I stripped it out to fit my detroit and again when I cleaned the britpart sworf out of it.

excellent... final question then... how do i check?

lock one hub and mark flange and other hub so you can count turns ,with a 4.7 diff you would have to turn prop flange 2.35 turns for one turn of hub 3.5 diff you would have to turn prop flange 1.75 turns for one turn of hub

You can do it.
Theres a couple of firms that flog weld on spring mounts for coilers, these fit the series rear spring mounts, my 109 has a 110 axle on it, the 110 is a coiler my 109 is a leafer, the only other issue is the shocker mounts, I think the 88 has them part of the lower spring clamp so you can just grind them off and loose them.
If its a salisbury then its either a 4.71:1 or its worth more than yer landy, if not better make sure the ratios's are the same, better count it.
The spring mounts are on the outsides of the chassis on a 109, whereas they are on the inside on the 88, thats the only diffo, you'll manage it no probs if your any good at snotting up.

Just dug this out of mi archive, this is a disco spring mount on my rear 110 axle, it fits the rear leaf mount perfect, I just remembered I had to drill the centre hole out to I think it was 18mm or the inch equiv, dont be a divvy and weld the mount on the wrong side!, they go on the bottom.



Here it is bolted up for a trial:

Thanks, think it is a 109, think i was just being stupid as i hadn't realised the spring hangers were in different places on the 109 compared to the 88. No major problem, just a grind and weld, just need the time to do it - think i'm going to miss the Thursday deadline for a free re-test on the mot

Unless you have a friendly mot man.

dr pepper said:

Unless you have a friendly mot man.

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i do not.

The friendly one had a visit from some unfriendly folk

Worth Doing especially if its a Stage 1 axle. I am a reletivly novice and managed it with ease, I have mine running a TVR V8 engine, and so far no probelms at all with the diff...

speed increase was deffinatly worth it, will go to 80Mph easy - I get scared after that...

and MPG has increased too almost affordable, from remortgage house.

Propshaft services in London is who I used, great piece of kit, I would reccommend the large angle flanges as with diff the propshaft moves over a greater angle (as it is closer to the box).

I used 2 pieces of plastic pipe (one sliding over the other) to measure distance between flanges.

I have GB para's and extended shackles which gives it a 3" lift over knackered spring and there is NO vibration from prop....

only slightly tricky thing is lining up flanges, I did it with a 2" square bar and a bench cut off grinder to get ends square. Assemble diff and spring's but don't weld. then jack up flange until square.

Before you weld get a few mates to jump up and down in back - make sure its not in gear and no hand brake. This is to settle springs before you re-measure and then weld!!!

Easy and worth it - highly recommended.

Just got a great deal on a rear Salisbury axle for my 1973 88, thinking it would be an afternoons job oops!
Is there anyone in the Bristol area anyone can recommend to do job as I'm no good at welding?