LPG or Quad ??

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I gather autoboxes loose the most???

Yep. And if its a lock up converter can compound the issue more too. Also after market stalls can give very misleading figures.

Even with a stock torque converter one of my cars will show a PEAK wheel torque of over 500ft lb, despite the engine only making a PEAK of around 370ft lb.
 
I've never had a bad experince of a RR yet

I've had cars on DASTEK, MAHA etc and they have all given the same result to within an acceptable error and have matched standard cars to an acceptable level. comparing WHP on various dynos is not that great since the weight of the drum in each set of rollers can be different and the heat of the gearbox oil on each run can be different.

A before and after graph from the same rollers is the only way of seeing what has been done but knowing what mods do what to an engine also gives you an idea of how unlikely a claimmed output is too.

If you have never put your car on the rollers you can't claim a power output.

I certainly wasn't calling anyone a liar, just in my experience rolling road figures are pretty pointless to use to start claiming flywheel figures, and here's why:


-there are many different types of rolling road. You get inertia drag brake types and you get eddy current types. The latter can load the engine more by increasing the drag weight (either hydrolic or electronic). Static inertia system simply use a big heavy weight which can't increase it's drag on the engine. The result of this is, different types of rolling road dyno can produce significantly different results. Both are correct in terms of how they are achieving the figure, but they are not directly comparable to each other, let alone comparing to manufacturers engine dyno figures.

-along with the different types of dyno you also get different makes. These can vary results too, more so if it's a hub mounted rolling road

-correction factors. When manufacturers dyno an engine they have to conform to very strict guidelines on ambient temperature, fuel, ancillaries, humidity, DA and a host of other values. These are usually defined as standards, SAE Net (Society of Automotive Engineers) is one example, although DIN and a few other standards are used in the EU and Japan.

There are a host of calculations that can be applied to "correct" to a standard. Not doing so can show massive differences in output, e.g. a 300rwhp V8 muscle car can show a variance of 20-30rwhp by correcting to SAE or not

-Metric/Imperial. There are both metric horse power (PS) and imperial (HP). They have slightly different values, so knowing which one is being used is rather important

-Drivetrain loss. This is really the biggy here. It's all guess work!. Sure some dyno's might measure coastdown, but that doesn't tell the entire story. Deriving flywheel figures from wheel figures is vague at the best. For normal rwd cars some will say 12% + 10bhp, others 15%. Yet there are loads of theories......

4x4's, well some claims 25%, others nearer 18%. Nissan will have you believe their GT-R is nearer only 6% drivetrain loss, which frankly is pure science fiction.

-Graph smoothing, to little graph smoothing will usually show false PEAKs giving artificial PEAK numbers.

-Operator error, either by accident or design. This occurs on both the correction factors and drivetrain loss. Most dyno's allow the operator to input the values for these manually, so they easily have the ability to manipulate the figures.


So I'm more than happy to see a dyno plot, in fact the plot and under the curve performance is far more interesting to me than out right PEAK figures.

I suppose what would be ideal is to have a base line 'before' whp plot, then on the same dyno an 'after' whp plot. That way it'd show the actual gains made over stock.

And bearing in mind many 4.6's don't make 225hp stock anyhow. (think LR faced legal action in the States over it).
 
What it comes down too is planning a route for gas stations not ideal if you live in a area with gas staions what range will you get for the conversion the d2 has two 45litre tanks but only gives a range of 180 miles while on petrol with a full tank the range is over 300 miles so think of the travel implications.
I was not impressed with a pitiful 4 gallon of petrol and a 90 mile range and went 20 miles out of my way to find gas

Mine takes 80 litres of gas and 25 litres petrol which gives me a minimum of 320 miles and if I take easy 400plus is possible.
 
We fitted a new short engine to our D2 in 2009, the vehicle as purchased came with multipoint Zavoli LPG, twin sill tanks and the full-size petrol tank.

We have done 36000 miles since then with no problems, always have the full petrol capacity if needed, and will generally run between 14mpg and 18mpg on LPG running around and A/B roads, less on motorways where we tend to run at the speed limit, rather than potter along at 60mph.

On a 450 mile run to Holland at the weekend, we ran at 70/75mph, got 11.4mpg on LPG, roughly equivalent to 22mpg, depending on fuel prices. 3 adults and luggage, plus 3 cwt of engine castings in the back.

LPG is a good option if multipoint and correctly set up, generally the power loss isn't that noticeable. Our D2 is manual box.

Towing our fully laden 3.5 tonne trailer/RV, we get about 11/12mpg on gas, depending on terrain, and that is also running at 60mph and UK/Holland/UK.

Nuenen2011167.jpg


Peter
 
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Fett, you are missing the point in your earlier comment about Auto's.

Sure you lose a bit of power, but you can at least pick your nose when you are driving.

What more can a man want, V8 engine noise and public nose picking?

Also, on LPG, sure maybe from a financial point it doesn't fully add up, but, when you are driving the wagon and you know the fuel is cheaper it feels great.

It's a bit like my other half coming back from the shops in a sale showing me how much money she has saved on things she wasn't going to buy in the first place - the more miles I drive and spend on fuel - the more money I save - if I drive faster I save even more.

Go LPG, feel green, save the world and save a fortune
Go Auto and pick your nose

You know it makes sense.
 
Johnny,

I run a 1992 Defender V8 which has twin SU's. After I rebuilt them I went from 15 mpg to 17 mpg. I then fitted LPG (myself) and get 15 mpg using LPG with NO noticeable decrease in power. The trick is to fit an ignition amp (I sourced mine from RPI) and this adjusts the advance/retard when you switch between petrol and LPG. If you were to do this AND fit the 4 barrel carb, imagine the improvement you could get !! I reckon I get the equivalent to 25 mpg given the price difference between petrol and LPG.
 
Hey chaps just my tuppence.....i have a RRC 3.9 Efi. She has multipoint lpg. It would always run just "ok" on LPG but if i had the lights on and was trying to overtake then she would start to grumble and lose power. I took out the "special LPG bosch four point spark plugs and replaced with normal NGK plugs which did make a difference but not brilliant.

I then bought a dual timing gizmo and timed it to 16 BTDC on the gas, it automatically retards it to 8 BTDC when on petrol.......result? Well she now pulls like a train on both gas and petrol and i get loads more miles from the lpg as opposed to the petrol.

Dual timing seems to be the way to go if you are running LPG.

Cheers, Stu.
 
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