I hate my exhaust manifold! Rusting/seizing prevention??

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
oxides said:
That's the stuff I meant - must give it a try.
Click to expand...

worked a treat on me cortina n mini its also more commonly known nowadays as grate polish or blacking ( last time i got some the young lad behind the counter looked at me like i were fookin mad when i asked fer black lead polish) not realising it dont have any lead in it no more but still as good

ps also available in 10 min drytime aerosol aswell :D:D:D
 
johnny curt 1 said:
never mind the high temp paints i just get black lead polish for stoves from any fireplace shop its only £4 for a 500ml tube and can take temps up to 2500 degrees and lasts a lot longer and dont stink like the dikkens when yer get it hot for the first time
Click to expand...

Hey, can you post a link of where I can get this amount for this price? A quick google show 75ml tubes for about a fiver.
 
Water247 said:
Jeeeze Johnny, I am amazed you drive a car. What was wrong with the horse and cart? :D Actually, I jest, I am all for small businesses with physical premises. The down side being they tend not to be open at 8pm :D
Click to expand...
last time i went to me brothers his kids killed neddy and burnt me cart to cook the bugger (rrraaaaggggg aaaannnnddd bbbooooonnnneeeee):D:D:D:D
 
It's a graphite based polish usually comes in toothpaste sized tubes which go a long way. Use on smooth cast iron (polish it up with a wire brush) apply with an old toothbrush and polish off. I use it on my grate.
Zebrite or Zebo are the two makes I've used.
 
copper slip can stand very high temp more than any engine can throw out, providing the head as been removed getting broken studs out can be a bummer of a job but can be defeated with care,if the studs are broken flush with the head place a punch on the stud and give it a sharp hit with a hammer then spray releasing fluid on it then drill a small hole and use a stud extracter to remove it,if you have the knowledge to strip the head off you have the knowledge to remove broken studs and it seems to me you have your own head screwed on and i dont think you will have a problem,
 
For anyone else reading this I ended up buying a new manifold from Brookwells. After painting it with graphite paint (aerosol) and getting new studs and bolts to make the job as pain free as possible I started assembling everything, just to find that the cast of the exhaust manifold was so inaccurate that the inlet manifold didn't sit correctly between it. I had two options, either return for another one with no gurantee the replacement will be any better and let this saga run for another few weeks; or 'adjust' it with the club hammer and get the job ticked off - albeit slightly less perfectly than I was hoping. Needless to say I chose the latter and the improvement to starting, ticking over and power is noticeable but I am ****ed off what should have been a pleasant hours work turned into a 4 hour botch job because Brookwells replacement part let me down.

I still have the old manifold with snapped studs and intend to overhaul when I have more time. I tried to drill a pilot hole in the stuck stud and snapped my drill bit! Then managed to get a small hole in it with another bit but gave up in the end. I think I need to invest in some quality drill bits and stud removal set (cheapo purchases were definitely a false economy) and also need a power drill with reverse speed as all I have that turns in reverse is a pretty weakly powered cordless drill.

Grrrr, I am forever compromising between doing the job properly as I want to and doing the job in a way I can afford.
 
Water247 said:
For anyone else reading this I ended up buying a new manifold from Brookwells. After painting it with graphite paint (aerosol) and getting new studs and bolts to make the job as pain free as possible I started assembling everything, just to find that the cast of the exhaust manifold was so inaccurate that the inlet manifold didn't sit correctly between it. I had two options, either return for another one with no gurantee the replacement will be any better and let this saga run for another few weeks; or 'adjust' it with the club hammer and get the job ticked off - albeit slightly less perfectly than I was hoping. Needless to say I chose the latter and the improvement to starting, ticking over and power is noticeable but I am ****ed off what should have been a pleasant hours work turned into a 4 hour botch job because Brookwells replacement part let me down.

I still have the old manifold with snapped studs and intend to overhaul when I have more time. I tried to drill a pilot hole in the stuck stud and snapped my drill bit! Then managed to get a small hole in it with another bit but gave up in the end. I think I need to invest in some quality drill bits and stud removal set (cheapo purchases were definitely a false economy) and also need a power drill with reverse speed as all I have that turns in reverse is a pretty weakly powered cordless drill.

Grrrr, I am forever compromising between doing the job properly as I want to and doing the job in a way I can afford.
Click to expand...

Why do you need a drill that goes backwards?
 
oxides said:
Why do you need a drill that goes backwards?
Click to expand...

Why do I get the feeling I'm about to look really stupid...

I thought to remove the stud I would have to first drill a pilot hole (normal drill bit in normal right spinning drill), then drill into the pilot hole with a left handed drill bit/stud remover (with a drill turning left) so that when the bit bites the inside of the stud it would hopefully grip it from the inside and start to undo it.
 
Water247 said:
Why do I get the feeling I'm about to look really stupid...

I thought to remove the stud I would have to first drill a pilot hole (normal drill bit in normal right spinning drill), then drill into the pilot hole with a left handed drill bit/stud remover (with a drill turning left) so that when the bit bites the inside of the stud it would hopefully grip it from the inside and start to undo it.
Click to expand...

no you extract the stud by hand you'll snap extracter if you use a drill
 
buckshot said:
no you extract the stud by hand you'll snap extracter if you use a drill
Click to expand...

You mean by using a hand brace? I never really got that far as couldn't drill a sensible enough pilot hole to start me off. Though, the stud seems rock hard so not sure I can see me being able to use a brace to make any impact on the stud - certainly not with the cheap **** stud removal tools I bought. So is it best to make the pilot hole quite close the the actual stud threads? ...I pictured just a small pilot hole in the middle and drilling the rest out with a left handed drill bit.

Appreciate your help.
 
Either
drill pilot hole in centre of stud, screw in stud extractor anticlockwise until it grips then use a tap wrench (not the plumbing sort) or small spanner (I'd use a small socket - a 12 spline will go on) on the square end of the extractor and gently apply torque. If it's the blind hole don't drill too big a hole, if the stud extractor bottoms out it will break and they're a pig to get out. Don't use cheap extractors - they're too brittle and will snap.
or
drill a pilot hole in the exact centre of the stud. Find a drill bit that's a snug fit in one of the other stud holes, drill out the stud and carefully remove the remains of the stud with a fine punch. A pillar drill to keep the drill parallel with the stud is useful.
...and have the address of your local engineering specialist to hand in case it all goes wrong. The worst case scenario is to drill out the stud hole and retap and make up a stud with two thread sizes on it.
 
think this was covered a while ago

i just wire brush the entire manifold then lather the entire thing even the studs n nuts in fire grate blacking (black lead polish) it contains loads a graphite wich really helps protect from rust on the threads and looks the dogs danglies when its done ( it can stand double the temperature any manifold can throw out )
 
not sure if its relevant now, but i ended up drilling and tapping out to M10,
using stainless studding, and drilling out the clamp holes on the downpipe.
used stainless nuts too.
edit.
may have slotted the clamp holes, it were a while ago.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dominicbeesley
2.25 exhaust manifold with 2.5 inlet
Replies
0
Views
806
dominicbeesley
dominicbeesley
Q
Freelander 2 leaking exhaust fumes
Replies
5
Views
913
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
R
Help with cracked exhaust manifold
Replies
11
Views
552
Knappster
Knappster
EmilH
Series 3 Think i found the problem.....
Replies
1
Views
223
biketeacherdave
biketeacherdave
EmilH
Series 3 Update on my military 109
Replies
5
Views
330
steve2286w
steve2286w
Back
Top