Heater fan keeps blowing the fuse!

[JP];1281831 said:

well.. i hope you are wrong lol!
was pretty easy to get it out, wasnt forced between any parts or anything, and ive noted the angle it came out...so it just needs to get back in the same way.... i hope!

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sounds like a hexpert now

wiltshire landyman said:

sell the defender and buy a rr..i have to turn my heater down i get that hot..

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My heater has always been fine mate, honest, since I bought and last winter always nice and toasty inside.
just been parked for months and now this happened...

storm99 said:

Looks like you've got same set-up as me..disco 200 in a fender with the original air filter...just watch your pipework and be aware and old matrix doesn't like being shaken about...be an arse to put it back together and find the matrix has sprung a leak.

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not the original airfilter, its off a disco 200, with a few mods to make it fit, its all one piece (as I've sealed all connections) from the turbo to the snorkel. all comes out in one single piece

oh how we loves the cold eh..

good luck wiv gettin it all working again

anyone got a spare fan motor. JP's is shagged -seized - even after judicious use of wd40 and grips - it would turn, just, but just kept overheating the wires as soon as power was applied .

Try Iannotts.

cheers for the help testing it MHM!

I'll PM Iannotts see if he has any spare....

The Mad Hat Man said:

anyone got a spare fan motor. JP's is shagged -seized - even after judicious use of wd40 and grips - it would turn, just, but just kept overheating the wires as soon as power was applied .

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Feckin hell that must be the longest heater motor fix in history!
Dint we say it was fooked on the second of december and needed replacing??
Drill an eight part hole in the botom of the fan housing and a 3/16th hole in the intake cowl to let any future water ingress out, also lengthens the life of the fan before it needs replacing again.
Replace the foam seals to if required when your in there

My 200 tdi did the same last year, the fanny gland had got blocked with wet leaves and snow went down the heater air intake and filled the bottom of the heater matrix box with water. It needs to be clear or rain will fill it too .When I turned the fan on it sprayed up onto the wiring and shorted it out. I removed the matrrix and dried it out and it worked fine for a few weeks but water must have got in bearings as fan went stiff and started shorting again - I ended up putting a td5 heater box into it, simple job £60 parts off ebay. Hope this helps

just incase you cant find 1 bud

Land Rover Defender 90 110 Heater GWO Genuine part. on eBay (end time 11-Dec-10 17:15:53 GMT)

LAND ROVER DEFENDER RHD HEATER BLOWER MOTOR TO`94 on eBay (end time 22-Dec-10 16:45:25 GMT)

Land Rover Defender Heater Blower Assembly on eBay (end time 08-Dec-10 16:51:33 GMT)

thanks for that mate!

put the first one on watch list

the other ones, well, today when I was at MHM he looked at Paddocks and was £45+VAT... dont know how those new ones on ebay are more expensive!

I've also bought a scoop intake to replace the open grille on the wing top, that will stop rain/snow.etc going straight in

Well... just in case anyone was wondering how the heater motor looks inside, I was bored today, so I opened it...
dont really know what im looking at to be honest, nothing looks burnt to me...

and I bet busterbus doesnt have a pic of this in his library! lol

See - i told ya he was an expert .




lol
If yu can reassemble it after having lubricated the bearings - it might work.


on the other hand it might still pop fuses

[JP];1284799 said:

Well... just in case anyone was wondering how the heater motor looks inside, I was bored today, so I opened it...
dont really know what im looking at to be honest, nothing looks burnt to me...

and I bet busterbus doesnt have a pic of this in his library! lol

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Can you do me a favour and measure those carbon brushes (width & hieght) I am taking my heatr off in a few days as it packed in. While its off I'm going to fit new brushes and check the resistor.

Regards

SC

The Mad Hat Man said:

See - i told ya he was an expert .




lol
If yu can reassemble it after having lubricated the bearings - it might work.


on the other hand it might still pop fuses

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there's no bearings there mate... the whole thing is just hold on the plates on each side of the motor..

I did notice something though... you see the 2 magnets with a spring, they are close to the other bit on the left side of the motor spindle in the pic..
shouldnt this bit have a flat surface?
because its kind of concave (if that's a word)

mercanlandy said:

Can you do me a favour and measure those carbon brushes (width & hieght) I am taking my heatr off in a few days as it packed in. While its off I'm going to fit new brushes and check the resistor.

Regards

SC

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yeh sure, will post it in a bit.

Cheers JP

I think yu will find there ARE bearings - sintered bronze bushes normally at each end - normally siezed solid in their housings

ok, just been out and took more pics...

mercanlandy, some pics for you, they are 1,1cmx2cm

now... is this bit supposed to be like this? shouldnt it be flat?


and this seems a bit too brown to me? should it be clean?


and found these marks....does it mean anything?


and here's your pics mercanlandy

fok it!
just seen MHM post! the bit I took the measurements of... its not the brushes is it???

hahahaha :doh:

[JP];1284940 said:

fok it!
just seen MHM post! the bit I took the measurements of... its not the brushes is it???

hahahaha :doh:

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Probably not as the sizes quoted seemed odd, however excellent pics and very helpfull, thank you.

Should it be flat - yes - do they wear like that - yes - is it significant - probably not.
I you wanted to refurb the motor, then you could get it turned on a lathe and have all the ickle bits between the copper undercut (old trick was to use an old broken hacksaw blade ground so that they was no "set" to the teeth).



Should that be clean - depends - it means the carbon brushes have worn down and that is the carbon dust - normal in an electric motor - if it was going to be re-used than a good dose of brakecleaner would remove - is it significant - no.



Do those marks mean anything - possibly to the manufacturer - to anyone else - it looks pretty

The reason why yours didnt work is that the shaft at each end should be running nice and smoothly in sintered bearings. Yours had siezed! - now yu could clean the shaft up with emery, and remover the sintered bushes from the casing, immerse them in engine oil and heat on a cooker (100 deg C) until no more bubbles came out of the bearings and refit, but is it worth all that hassle - I would suggest not - that is, if you could rebuild the motor.