Heater hot AND cold at the same time!

My 1999 autibiography 4.6 auto, is blowing nice hot air from the heater on my side of the car (drivers), but freezing cold air on the passenger side. The air con is switched off (light on button is ON), but it's still blowing the cold air. What could I check to see whats going on?

I have thought that maybe there is a problem with the heater matrix on the passenger side (providing it has a seprate one to the drivers side, but I don't know) is faulty or blocked.
The little book is lit up on the heater display panel too - what does this mean? Is it related to my problem?

If anyone does know what the problem is or could be, can you tell me how to go about fixing it too if you can please?

I hope someone can help...

Blend motors

Expanding on Nathan5346 book symbol is caused by fault in HEVAC system. I think there's only one heater matrix, so it's not that. There are 3 blend motors that control direction, flaps, temperature mix, and left and right temp's Chances are it is the one on the LHS that is acting up, they are buried VERY deep in the dashboard, have a look at Rangerovers . net for a step by step and good shortcuts. Can only buy all three motors at once but scrap merchant might have an odd one that may work.

Have a read of this...

Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes

Guy

Hi, My 1999 had exactly the same problem. Book symbol showing, cold passenger/hot drivers side. Datatek suggested exercising the Blend motors. So I sat in my Rangie for half an hour engine running pressing all the heater direction buttons and hey presto the motors sorted themselves out. They sometime get clogged with with dust and dirt and seize. The excercise worked for me but for some it wont work because the Blend Motor teeth sometimes sheer off hence new motor required.

I think the motor causing you problems is the passenger side behind the glove box. I have been advised that this is the easier one to get at.

You can buy single blend motors instead of all three, there is a chap in Poole who can source them singular. PM me if you want his details

Thanks for that. I've just bled the cooling sytem - in case an air loack is the problem (but I doubt it), and I've checked the fuses too and they're ok. The next one is to 'have a play with the buttons then, and last of all, change the 'black box'. I can get one on ebay as it happens or at my local Landrover Parts Manufacturer in town (I know I'm lucky!).

Has anyone had the glove box out and changed one of these things?

Right, the blend motors that are responsible for moving the air to the appropriate vent actually work as they should with the correesponding action being correct when a button on the HEVAC is pressed. But what motor of the 3, is responsible for distributing the HEAT?

Hi KJT,

First of all, follow kooky_guy's advice and follow that link, it helps diagnose which motors are at fault and how to go about getting at them.

I have a similar problem as you and I've just bought 3 blend motors from a breakers on ebay for £80.00.

Guess what I'll be doing at the weekend?

Good luck!

D

Hi I have just been reading the above string and I am having a similar problem. I drive a 1996 2.5 DSE and the air con is also OFF, but although the heat setting is on high the air is not very warm until I turn RIGHT??
Is this the same problem with the motors or is this a more mechanical problem? When I turn left the air gets colder?!

Any suggestions?

Cheers

Yes, I re-read the advice on the link and mine does seem to be pointing to the one on the left that is responsible for the heat part of things so I bought a new one for £60.00 with LOOM PLUG attatched! Well happy with that.


Lets hope I can find it, get to it, and get it done asap.....

Finished replacing the LH 'blender' yesterday and all is well in the footwell now. I took the approach mentioned on rangrover.net and used a holesaw to cut through the plastic pipe infront of the said blender and got to it in about an hour.
But, the wiring loom for the old one dissapeared off into neverland in the middle of the dash and the new one had a SHORT lead but with a multiplug. So when I bought it, I thought "this will be a piece of cake to refit - no soldering etc".

How wrong I was! I had to open the motor to find no teeth had been damged, but the motor had had it (it turns out later) unsolder the wiring from the circuit board in the motor to mke them as long as possible, but it only hung down just enough to be exposed into the footwell. I had to clamp it in place so that i could work on it and prep it for soldering - and yes, as a result of all this, I had to cut the multi plug off! So for the next few HOURS I was struggling with soldering only 5 wires together. Of course they were all different lengths in the original motor, and I didn't have anything extra to play with so it turned out to be a time consuming nightmare from that point - all to be done in mid air with no extra pair of hands. I did clamp the new motor to the centre console area though so that I could just concentrate on joining the wires as best I could.
After soldering I taped up each wire with insulation tape, and then a large shrink wrap tube over all of them. Ichecked that the motor was working and - eh presto!

I reconnected everythingelse and as soon as I was putting the lower glove box panel in, I noticed that my interior lights were all lit very dim and the hevac was flashing like mad when I put the ignition on. The dash clocks had decided to alternate and flash on and off in various sequences too.
The stereo is now dead as well. I rang a mate about it, and his first question to me was - did you disconnect the battery before you started? AND THE PENNY DROPPED!

No I didn't - what an idiot!
So today, I have the fun task of trying to work out what has gone wrong and how to fix it.

If anyone has any Idea, then please post!

Might depend on what sort of soldering iron you used, it could conceivably have damaged the BECM. Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, make sure you have the EKA code first and the radio code.

Ripped it all out AGAIN! AAARGH and it turned out all I had done was blow a permenant live fuse under the drivers seat. I replaced that AFTER dismantling everything but it's sorted now.

So check ALL fuses (not just the ones under the bonnet) first!