Ahhhh The Tub Floor's gone

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Hey matt, Although some may not like this idea (I know my dad don't) I'm going to lift the floor out in mine and place 3/4 (18mm) WBP ply into the base of the floor coating the underside and edges with underseal before final fitting, paint the top side and then replace the aluminium floor on top of this just to add a little more strength. If you didn't want to replace the aluminium floor i'm pretty sure the Ply would be strong enough on it's own.

just a suggestion :)
 
Replacing the alloy floor plate is a bastard of a job even with the tub removed from the chassis. When I did it on my SIII I found there were hundreds of spotwelds and rivets to break. It might be worth considering swapping the whole tub. or just laying new plate over the old.
 
Hi,

when i needed to replace the tub crossmembers and tub floor I ended up drilling all the way round edge because of the spot welds and leaving enough to attach some L shaple angleiron to refasten the new floor to.

Very painfull job, unless you've got good reason just go straight over the top of what's already there.

TM
 
If you want to use wood, why not use a phenolic sheet, looks a bit and works like wood, only it dunt rot. A local geyser uses it for the floors of trailers he meks, if its good enough fer that it'll do your job.
 
I dont understand its a easy job?
Drill out the spot welds.
Remove old floor
Remove old supports
Replace supports (Tip use axle strap cut up in to bits to sit on the supports rails)
use old floor to mark the positions of the holes
fit new floor
Using best grade pop rivits fix floor in place.
Took me a day including welding and painting the chassie rails.
 
the latter and it is that simple, i ground the riverts off with mini grinder and drilled from underneath for new holes although i took a weekend!
 
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