Recent content by mrchurchill109

1. This is not a sprint it is a marathon. Don't get discoraged - as has been said one thing at a time and you'll be amazed at what you end up with. 2. Bought my first Landy over 20 years ago (a IIA 109 pickup) and it was far worse than what you have, and rotten to boot. I still have it- did 300...

Can't hurt to service them. When I bought my ex-MOD truck the injectors were horrid. A good service and cleaning did them wonders. i eventually replaced them (worn pintles) but the service did make a significant difference. ajr

Just went through this exercise finding a dud coil on my 109. 3.x ohms is OK for the primary and the 6.2K for the secondary is fine as well. Alan

You mean in, right? Ran into this problem before - fulltime 4WD gets toed out because they pulll in under power.. Part-rime 4WD gets toed in because they toe out on the road.

OK, i've tried this trick a few times and never managed to get it right. I always feel like I'm fouling the suspension trying to get to the back and front inside rim - I don;t feel like I've adjusted it properly. Do tell a few details - my 109 could use a bit of tweaking in this respect, i...

Actually, i've seen that happen. Had a valve stick in a 2.25 petrol and though lumpy it drove 30+ miles home with no problems. Pulling the head and dealing with the ****-poor reaming job the machine shop did on the valve guides was another story... :( Alan

So you saying you were off your rocker? :)

Just bleedin' brilliant... :)

Gonna sound like a dumb question, but have you tried running it with the valve cover off at low idle and touching the rockers in turn? Did that on a pesky RV8 rattle once and it let me track it to a punched-out rocker arm. Isolating the problem to one or two valves might make it easier to...

Were it me I'd be hiunting him down to throw dosh at him for the guts of the speedometers...case and face can be sourced from broken speedometers.

First, get a wiring diagram for your car - it will be a good thing to have. With the coil, the 12 volt wire from the harness goes to NEGATIVE. The wire from the distributor goes to POSITIVE. Putting both wires to negative created a dead short. Fix the wires and try again.

The switch actuates through a hole in the cable sheath - when the shaft is pulled out the switch drops down. Find that bit and tie-wrap it up. or simply disconnnect the +12 at the switch. Whaat are you going to use for a choke cable?

Lowest idle that sounds good to you. I believe the spec is 800 RPM (but i don't have manuals in front of me at the moment). Personally, I go for what sounds correct rather than a number.

Yes, been there and drilled it out. Not specifically on a Series III column lock, but done it on door locks and an early IIA ignition lock. Be careful and use a light hand and it's doable.

Long done - and 300 TDis are not exactly thick on the ground in the Northeast US. I like the 2.5D, actually, even though the one I fitted end up having a bad pistonb and turned into a goat rodeo to fit. Lovely engine in good nick - which it is now.