Hi, you have to use a nanocom or hawkeye to make sure tat te ECU is not the problem even though it must get above 250rpm input to start coded how? can your diag tool make the ECU learn the security code?

Go with nanocom In BCU - Settings - Alarm/others - 4'th page and make sure that Cruise control appears as "Enabled"

There are more electronic relays within it, i didnt open one to explore but as long as there is power on those pins the problem should be inside, that's in the user guide about those inputs: · BCU switch power: This is the supply voltage as measured by the BCU at its transistor switching...

Not easy, you'll have to remove the turbo first iirc, just buy branded gasket, i used THIS

it depends on the brand, Mahle or Mann have the o-ring attached and most aftermarkets too e.g https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-discovery-2-td5-engine-oil-rotor-filter/

Check if you have power in C0660 pins 1, 3 and 13 against pin 11(earth) with ignition on and if you get +12V in all of them replace the BCU, disconnect the battery first then after replacement and battery reconnection turn ignition on(dont try to crank it at that stage) and let it turned on 5...

This means that the electronic side is working cos the signal gets there... if the latch mechanism wasnt bran new but some scrapyard part send it back and ask for refund cos that's the problem...if the latch is new well speak again but not untill i'm 100% certain that it's working.

Hi, first of all the pics are not about a resistor but about the power transistor pack LR part number JGN100011, i know nothing about those 0700 manufacturer part numbers you mentioned but if the D2's connector fits into the part it should work, if you are skilled enough with electronics all you...

+1^^^ they are all made on the same principle as in the attachment, IMO you better buy a good used ignition harness from a scrapyard and get done with it , i couldn't find a part number for D2 loom, no matter how i search it comes only together with the barrel as new, they seem available only...

Classic symptom of blown fuse F25 interior fusebox: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/warning-light.331412/#post-4280411

+1^^^ ... brute force carefully applied to the right point each side is enough, i used arm jack tools one at a side and they came out but you can lift consecutively one side at a time step by step this type

Hi, i hope this helps

Welcome. Maybe the plug was not connected well then, I'm glad it was so easy... aamof i learned English in high school first then trained myself in many ways ;)

the early 15P engine pre-facelift discos originaly fitted with MSB101340 ECU had a very strange "hybrid" fuel map, a kind of Eu2/Eu3 mixage and that 104 AAP reading at idle while the MAP is 96 makes me think that who played with the remap loaded an Eu3 fuel map which needs the 4 wire AAP sensor...

Nothing seems wrong with the sensor readings but it's visible that it's low on power for some reason, go in autobox ECU programming(or utility i can't remember) and reset addaptive values if the engine ECU was replaced, if it still has the catalyst it might be a restriction there so the boost...

Not working: "unable to expand INPUT.zip it is an unsuported format" ... convert it to xlsx and share it with a link, something like this https://www.transfernow.net/dl/202505293Y4xwenQ or other free sharing platform

How?? did you run the 5 throtle purging trick completely untill the EMS stopped flashing then cranked it without throttle? if yes measure the battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 10.5V it willl happily crank but hardly start

Then find somebody with nanocom, it activates all the lights in the "instrument pack" menu unles it's some other issue

Yes but AFAIK only nanocom can do it... though did you try the "Autographics" menu in the BCU programming or you checked only the "Gearbox" section?

yes, see THIS