Well ill be down there this weekend so i will be sure to report back exactly what else is in the way if anything

Do you remember what it is you had to move out of the way? Other than the exhaust which I see as quite obvious

Yes it is a K series, I can see the support bracket in your image has been removed or wasnt there (goes around the drive shaft) but I can clearly see the IRD is still in which is good news! Thanks

Hey all! Another Thread :p I am looking to change the oil sump on the Freelander but last I looked the IRD and other brackets are in the way, if anyone has done it I would love some suggestions, I really don't want to have to take the IRD out again, I swear it's come out enough times...

Maybe? how could I tell? It's only attached to the brake booster via a pin and clip style connection, and the brake booster is bolted on. The hand brake used to do one click hence I think 3 may be too much, maybe the space could be the unused rotors with the unused pads and creating a bad feel...

I adjusted them to where I couldn't get the drum on at all, then 1 click back to fit them on, the hand brake goes up about 3 clicks so that tells me they need adjusting again, maybe the adjuster has gone bad on them?

It's perfectly possible and worth considering! For now though I just need an MOT it's been 4 months since I last drove it properly, gonna give it a quick shoot up the motorway before the MOT, I will be sure to let everyone know how that goes... Concerned for the emissions but that is another...

Even weirder that it applies the brakes a fair amount in that dead-space, but I think the MOT guy will be happy enough compared to last time :oops: You can adjust the pushrod on the pedal to the master, I've adjusted it a bit, but it is technically "Over-Adjusted" by about 0.5mm - 0.75mm so it...

Coming back to this with some good news finally! We managed to take it for a drive on... private road 🤫 None the less I can safely say while there is that 10-15% dead-space at the beginning the brakes still work in that range maybe it's just the steel lines I installed? Anyway the brakes...

Blowtorch sufficed :) though they almost went!

The rear brakes are Drums... :) When I refer to Cylinders I refer to the wheel cylinders in the drums at the rear, when I refer to calipers I refer to the Discs and pistons at the front :) I am very young though, thank you for noticing!

The wheel cylinders needed doing as before the pedal was spongy I only installed the calipers wrong after painting them, not my proudest moment... :p

All of that and I am just an idiot :/ I was doing some more googling and someone said "make sure the calipers are the right way otherwise the bleed nipples will be at the bottom. Lo and Behold reviewing some of the videos we took. That is the bleed nipple at the bottom of the caliper...

...Here we are again, this again didn't fix the issue... Good news though! The pedal now feels different... Still not good, but before it used to go solid but be very spongy, now the pedal is very smooth does not feel spongy but it goes all the way to the floor, it also (with the engine on)...

Painted the calipers Blue while they were off... 🤷‍♂️

Thank you for the reply, didn't even think to take them apart! My pressure bleeder seems to work alright, but I'll be using the pedal next time to ensure I get full range of the master to ensure air is taken out of that, going to fit them next weekend, painting the new front calipers I got...

It's me again! Finally managed to find the courage to look at the rear brakes... I hate drums. Found that the wheel cylinders feel like sh*te and don't return when pressed, they go no pressure from the pedal until about 3/4 the way down the pedal, I think either air got in there and can't get...

So I replaced the O2 Sensor to ensure that was not it, and nope... It is still misfiring... I don't THINK it is consuming coolant since replacing that bolt/nut properly on the intake but super confused what could be making it misfire / failing the emissions... I would think it could be consuming...

Used the PScan to code in 2 new fobs as mine died the other day and so couldn't start the car for about a week...

Hello everyone! Looking for some information and input really. As a spin off from - https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/unable-to-bleed-brakes.398398 I've recently learned about the Brake Bias Valve, also known by many names ("Brake Proportional Valve", "Pressure Reducing Brake Valve" and...