Yes a pretty rare option for UK. 3 Buttons would be along the bottom of the rear view mirror housing.

Dunno about the D4 but the D sport has a large grommet coming through from behind the passenger glove box. A piece of welding wire with cable hooked on the end can pierce here, just ensure it away from existing wires, and pushed through. The camera on rear of my D2 is bluetooth. Wire from camera...

I got EKA code for my D2 from nearest LR Dealer, no charge. So if code is 1234 start by unlocking and hold for 5 seconds til you hear beep. Release then unlock once, lock twice, unlock 3 times, lock four times. Unlock and hold it should beep twice if code is correct. D5C9 would be unlock x4...

Well I have to say I've no idea how to do it but it sounds like you doing it wrong ! Should never be that difficult. If there are no pearls of wisdom forthcoming you could try the Series 2 Forum. Later Series 2A doors are very similar.

As above but also check for water/damp around modules in passenger footwell.

Charge Light should only come on when ignition turned on, then go off as soon as you start engine. Check battery leads are tight and no more than 1" movement on longest stretch of fan belt. You should have about 14.5 volts across battery with engine running if you can check that the battery is...

When you tried them where they secured on a flat surface ? They can be very temperamental in their orientation.

Random guess would be a poor connection somewhere in the engine bay or a blocked/missing pipe.

I may have dreamt this, but is there a 'service mode' where you hold both gear shift paddles with foot on pedal to release ? 🤔 In the workshop it is possible to reverse the current direct to the park brake on each wheel using a slave battery.

It looks more rounded than seized so I would think the gripper type sockets would do it. When I first got my D2 the sump plug was completely round. Local garage got it off using a gripper socket.

For parallel plugs you don't need the ballast resistor. Wire with good quality cable, about 30 Amp, fed through a relay with a timer or warning light. You will also remove the final lead from plug to block.

Agreed, just keep topping it up with diesel to dilute. Back in the day we would put a pit of Petrol in the Diesel to stop it freezing. Mind you engines where not so highly strung then, but the TD 4 is a good engine, you should be fine. Just check no excess smoke before your MoT.

Not the length of rope I hope ! o_O

Wiring diagram tells me it is a 2 pin green connector LHS rear of engine. But as Sierra says you really need a proper code reader. I was initially told, for all models, Exhaust sensors work back from engine with 1 being nearest but diagrams do not bear that out ?

Supply should be 5v, only 3 of the 5 cavities are used. The wiring is mirrored on the other side, have you compared like for like ?

Not sure about 2008 model but at some point there was a Glow Plug Control Module under LH H-lamp, accessible from wheel arch. I do know there is a grey 4 pin connector between plugs and ECM, near top of engine on right, as you look at it. If car is starting fine. Have you tried clearing the...

You could try somewhere like Autosparks online, but if you visiting any Classic shows there are often several stalls selling these.

They are known for having good engines, other than that, dunno. But if you do buy, They are reputed to have good engines, other than thst, dunno. But don't go changing anything until you get used to how it is and how it should be.

Unfortunate turn of events. Be said to see it scrapped, but with those estimates it looks likely.

If they write it off ask to buy it back. Unless the impact was at speed and it has damaged the crash cans that looks an easy repair. Yours was stationary so no airbags to be concerned about. To be Honest, that age and mileage it not worth much on the market. That said I'd have it.