Adjusting the steering lock stops as you mentioned could have probably helped and perhaps the sachet would have been fine I am guessing.

But for what LR charges for this stuff, at least give a quality case or be consistent on your packaging Even britpart made a practical case...... But this is the type of cap i meant.

The only thing is for european oils, castrol is the only oil I can get anywhere off the shelf and most affordable. in conversion, it costs me 22 english pounds, for 5 litres which is pretty good for quality stuff. Everything else in that bracket is driven towards north american oil specs. Unless...

Casterol 5w40 A3/B4 But I switched from Casterol 5w30 A5/B5 because I was getting this noise and temps are 30+ here. Prefer the protection over fuel economy

I see now, must have been a new design but that is definitely not what mine looked like. That is a super pointy end. Yeah, If I had that design of a bag would have fit perfectly. I didn't take a photo but basically it was square. The end bit was like the bottom left corner

"Do you squeeze all your toothpaste into a bowl first anaw?" Yes, but not a bowl, a funnel. there is a difference..... But also, a mouth is 48milimeters from top to bottom so that is a big difference compared to a little fill hole. Bought the LR one shot crap. Waste of money. Please be the...

The noise does vary. Recently it has not been occurring. Truck still has not changed since I posted this post. Idles fine. Does it sound like my exhaust bolt snapped perhaps? this just came to mind. I will just let it be but will take your word on it. I could I think use a remap.

When you say valve related, what do you mean? I am hesitant though of mixing additives in my oil but will dump plenty in my diesel. How could it help the valves?

No, but LR did…. 😭 When I have it on full lock, the inner part of swivel housing leaves the fill hole only a quarter open. It just overfills from hitting that inner housing. (Not sure what that inner part is) Hence why I had to chain my steering wheel full lock because it will obviously not...

🤣🤣🤣in this context it sounds ridiculous. I read on another forum it makes it more runny therefore making it pour better, which given the size of whole could help for some but for myself, did not

Thank you for the tip, i will note this if i decide to use grease again. I have finished the job earlier. Most likely will probably use 80w90 moving forward. cheaper and already added a bit previously and had no leaks. I am guessing after a few front diff flushes I will be able to remove most...

I did, I even chained my steering wheel to my mirror to get a maximum full lock but still slow as hell. I have to say, a plastic end bit for the sachet to just fit into the little hole would have been perfect. I just leave it in the funnel, warm it up a bit, do few rotations to let it breath...

Well I’m already under the truck, takes time wow. Tried warming up the sachet and it blew. Found an easier way personally for me, but when I clean this out one day I will probably switch to oil. Hope this method is an alternative for some who also blew the sachet trying to warm it up in water

I lied, my local LR just got a case of 10. Last time I called they said they didnt have it. Guy told me when there is a car in for service that needs that part they will order a case (LR cost) and service that part. Just a chance of right timing.

But at the core route of why use grease over oil is for leakage? I don’t see there being a performance reason as I would believe gear oil would lube much better than grease?

So can I make this mixture myself?

Since you posted this I did some research, and I learned that LR used gear oil in the swivel pins previously. One shot grease is not hard to get unless I order overseas but purely out of convenience and cost, can I not just use 80w-90 as the same as I put in my diffs. My front diff already...

You can also in most situations , just take off in 2nd gear. Play around with second in gear when your taking off, may help you. Worth a mention, There is a lighter spring for the clutch pedal you can purchase for a softer pedal and shorter gear lever to reduce the travel on your gear shifter...

Update, noise is gone all together for the last three days. I leave the key turned to prime the pump but won't start it for about 30sec after the pump is primed and then when I do give it a start it sounds fine. Seems to be working. Not sure if this actually does anything or just psychological...