Thank you for providing an independent check of my calculation/numbers - that's very helpful!

Having done some basic calcs, as I've been thinking about head skimming on my 109, for 7:1, the total clearance volume should be 95.2 cc, and for 8:1, 81.6cc. The total clearance volume should include any clearance between the top of the piston and the deck of the block at TDC, and the volume...

1000 apologies if this doesn't apply in your case, but, again and again, I've seen steering boxes over-tightened **. As an example, my 109 didn't steer well when I bought it, and backing off the steering box adjustment to a sensible compromise between play and tightness made a big improvement...

For the sediment, it may be worth checking the mesh screens on the tank pick up pipe and in the fuel lift pump as well as the small filter on the carb inlet which you've cleaned out. For the popping on over-run, it's worth checking the exhaust for leaks - also, perhaps, check the exhaust...

Fully agree. In fairness to the MOT testers, I imagine that it's one of the rarest used reasons for rejection there are in the book, it wouldn't surprise me if they had never actually used it.

>>apparently its not an m.o.t fail to not have a working speedometer Interestingly, it is an MOT fail - there are 3 reasons for rejection; briefly, 1) No speedo fitted 2) speedo incomplete, clearly inoperative, or, dial glass broken or missing 3) speedo cannot be illuminated Just after I...

The government have consulted on introducing a rolling MOT exemption - here's their latest thinking, which should be relevant to those of us deviant enough to "enjoy" leaf sprung Land Rovers.... https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/roadworthiness-testing-for-vehicles-of-historic-interest

A few thoughts / possibilities; - If there was a large manifold leak caused by the fitting on the adapter plate which you've since blocked, the throttle would have to be opened a long way to get the engine to tick over. This could cause the idle circuit of the carb not to be activated by the...

One useful tip for angle tightening cylinder head bolts is to mark / tippex the head bolts after the torque steps, but, before you start the angle tightening. Say, for example you put a mark on each bolt head pointing towards the front of the engine, you can tell at a glance which bolts have...

I use an acient combined vacuum gauge / petrol pump pressure gauge, which I tee in to the fuel pipe to read the pump delivery pressure. But, assuming you don't have one, what you could do is to remove accelerator linkage and the two nuts holding the carb down, and lift the carb up an inch or so...

Is the petrol pump correct? The reason I suggest this is that the pressure spec for the petrol engine lift pump is 1.5 to 2.5 psi, while the diesel engine lift pump is 5 to 8 psi. A diesel lift pump, [or a diesel lift pump's diaphragm return spring] if fitted to a petrol engine would produce...

It was the lack of sparking when you shorted the solenoid which made me think the battery was kaput. However, 12.7V or so is absolutely fine. The next place to look is in the end of the starter motor to check the commutator, brushes and their connections,

Your description matches a flat battery. What's the battery voltage when you are trying to start the car?

If you follow the front propshaft backwards from the front axle, you'll find the front output of the transfer box. Just above this output flange, you'll see a thin steel cover plate with cylinder shaped cups. This is the cover you need to remove. You'll probably find it's wet and manky in...

No, there's no need to reduce the diameter of the shaft. The sleeve is only about 10 thou thick, and the oil seal will accomodate this. One trick I use is to assemble the flange into the housing, and then fit the flange and housing together. This allows you to check the inside of the lip of...

Years ago, I used a wear sleeve on a large commercial vehicle diff input flange. It worked well. However, without measuring the shaft diameter, I don't even know if wear sleeves for this Land Rover flange are available.

This repair may be a possibility; http://www.skf.com/binary/68-128020/11337_2-EN-SKF-Speedi-Sleeve.pdf

Here's Part 2, as threatened! Removing and replacing the bearings went largely as per the green book. I found it easier to release the high gear circlip, and remove the shaft, low gear and high gear before removing the front outer race. This then allowed me to drift out the front outer race...

In the hope that it may be useful to someone else attempting the job, here are a few notes and comments about the job so far, ... If you haven't got them, you'll need some Whitworth spanners! (but there are also some A/F, for good measure) To save stuggling when the unit was removed, I put the...

The bearings arrived today - the front one's a Koyo, and the speedo end is a NTN. So, not Timken or SKF, but, not sweatshop specials either. It's going to be a few weeks before I get the chance to do this job. I'll report back on how the Koyo bearing fits - the inner corner detail is a bit...