Your MOT tester has taken the idle mixture from one extreme to the other. 5% CO is too rich It's better to set the CO between 2.5% and 3% Your mixture is currently much too weak - which is why you need some choke to richen it up a bit. A friendly MOT station will let you check your mixture using...

It's actually better to do the opposite of this. Although it sounds odd, the problem stopping the front brakes on 109s being bled is a pocket of air behind the extended pistons in the wheel cylinders. If you adjust the brakes fully off, this pushes the pistons back in the wheel cylinders, and...

It's not unknown for new thermostats to stick. Try it in a pan of boiling water to see if it opens.

I struggled with my 109 too. To get the standard brakes to bleed, I took both front drums off, backed the adjusters fully OFF, and then tied ratchet straps round the shoes pulling them tightly in, fully pushing the wheel cylinder pistons back into their bores. Then a couple of pumps of the...

The outer column is fine - the broken part you can see is the outer race of the bearing. The ball bearings themselves are long gone. My bearing had failed and looked exactly like this photo; there was no damage to the steering column tube.

You can do the bearing by releasing the steering column tube from the clamp bolt in the top of the steering box. With ignition switch and stalks removed, the column clamp on the bulkhead released, the outer column slides out, bringing the bearing with it, and leaving the inner column...

Yes, the bulb is the obvious starting point.

Fix your charging lamp. The alternator needs this as a sort of kick start to get the alternator to begin charging. Sometimes, the residual magnetism in the rotor is enough to start the alternator charging when the lamp fails, sometimes, it isn't. Fixing your lamp should not cost much, and...

That's not the shaft which drives the oil pump, it's the quill shaft which drives the injector pump. There's another one between the skew gear you can see in the engine block and the pump in the sump.

I would look at the relief valve and more likely, the drive from the distributor drive gear (which must be turning!) down to the oil pump. There's a quill shaft, and the teeth at either end, or, the internal teeth on drive gear or driven gear can wear, stopping the oil pump. I don't think this...

I've always just jiggled the prop by hand and watched the joints to check them. If there's a bearing going tight, you have to drop the prop off to allow the joint to move freely to feel the tightness - but tight joints give rumbling noises when running rather than clunks. If the sliding joint...

I've used Champion RN1\1YC4 plugs in mine, and it currently has Bosch WR7DC plugs fitted. Both work well. I don't know the CR of my engine for sure. It has the raised boss on top of the cylinder head, but, I haven't found an eight marked on there. The compressions are all 145 psi - good for...

This is all a bit confused. Tons aren't a unit of pressure, nor are they a measure of kinetic energy. Here's another way to look at it. Assuming 2 tons of force, i.e. 20,000 N, this would give a Cd x A product of about 33, which is beyond plausible. An ordinary car might have a Cd x A...

Are there any published data on drag, frontal area, rolling resistance and so on for Land Rovers? 2 tons sounds a bit high to me. If it were true, dipping the clutch at 70 mph would mean the car would slow down as if it were an extreme emergency stop. Are you sure about the units of measurment?

It's much easier to fit the later type of seal which fixes to the vent flap using self adhesive.

It's also worth checking that; - some halfwit hasn't over adjusted the sterring box in a vain attempt to remove play [cost = zero] - that there's oil in the steering box, steering relay, and steering swivels [cost = negligible] - that the steering swivels have the right preload [cost =...

Have you tried the suggestion of using a test lamp instead of a multimeter? As mentioned earlier in the thread, it's very likely to be a bad connection anywhere between the switch and the back of the vehicle - look on the wiring diagram to identify the connectors.

Your multimeter isn't helping you. It doesn't draw much current when measuring voltage, and doesn't load the circuit up. It will have you running round in circles. Far better to use a spare bulb holder, and make a test lamp using a 12V 21W bulb. Put a crocodile clip on one wire to clamp to...

No, you don't need to cut the tube. Originally, there would have been a gauze there - it's just rotted or vibrated itself to bits over the years, and disappeared. If you look carefully at your pick up tube, you'll probably find a "collar" where the old solder was, holding the top of the...

There are some gauzes for sale now - ebay item 132576973813 I have no connection with the seller, otrher than as a customer