There have been recalls on a number of stands *similar* in design to those, above. Broken welds. broken locks, cracks on folds etc. I have 4 big iron base mothers, from probably the 50's or 60's. Huge threaded shaft and a spinny wheel-nut thing to adjust them. Apparently you can still buy...

Having water run down there isn't really the issue... it's the seam sealer they used - it's dried out, cracked and holds water./moisture behind itself, on the panel. The whole lot needs stripping off, rust removed and re-sealed with a modern urethane or modified polymer sealer. The factory...

Get rovergauge. make or buy a cable. Download the ZIP from Github. It's free, except the cable, but I think they were 4o pounds on ebay, or about half that to make, but you have to get all the bits. 14CUX has no "limp mode" in the traditional sense. If it's not running right, it's reading...

The MFU probably directly triggers the relay in the drivers footwell (RHD). My relay was faulty - replaced and intermittent came back.

It won't need a MAF then; just a replacement spring, every now-and-then.

Perhaps there is a lip in the rear of the cavity, so the seal is pressed all the way back?

None of my mates mentioned doing a ram raid on Thursday... but I haven't talked to them lately, because we've all been getting ****ed for the holidays 🤣 One of the Anaesthetists at work reported his car stolen... after a couple of drinks with workmates... The cops called him several days later...

ACE?

"The van was slowing down on a hill, so I pressed in the left pedal, so the revs could go up for more power..." "PUT IT IN H"!

What grade oil do you have, and how cold is it before start up? Oil is always thicker when cold, so it can take longer to flow - hence the invention of multi-grades. Engines don't actually need oil *pressure*, they actually require flow and the pressure is a rough indicator of flow. If you...

And make sure the timing is the same as it was (or at least, correct). If it's firing early, it might slow the crank speed down further, and prevent starting.

Have a look at the wire, while you change it and make sure it's still insulated near the plug - the insulation can go brittle and if it touches a grounded item it could trigger the light too.

Yeah, not a daily, but usually used every friday. 1997 V8 auto, Jap spec, in NZ. Did a bit of rescuing at the Mountain Bike park today. Local Boys High School had a teacher only day, so half the school was over there... massive off for one of them, so the Disco was ferrying kids back to my...

Take all out. LABEL the wires! I'd remove the fuel pump or injector fuse/s too, so it isn't pumping in fuel.

How have you determined you have no rear drive??? Without a difflock, that would normally mean NO drive... the output to the rear would just spin and the centre diff wouldn't transfer power to the front anyway.

If you can't sort out the basics of a Disco 1, I'm not sure you want to delve into the "fun" of a series...

In E39 BMWs, the tamper light shows up if the VIN in the LCM doesn't match the cluster. The Milage updates in the whole car, to whichever one is highest, every 100kms... but in the system, that could be in 1 km, or in 99 kms... I don't know about the Landy stuff, but I used "BMW Scanner 1.4"...

I've thought about earlier VW motors.... But I also have a mate who will GIVE me his 1998 530d Touring with BMWs M57 engine... But even the parts for the conversion cost so much that I'll probably not recoup the costs over the "economy" of the V8... because I just don't do enough milage.

so 90% is Britpart??? It's probably as useful and my Lego Defender?🤣