We (still) have proper Nordic winters here, even that I live in southern Finland. It has been -30 celsius in the northern Finland this week. This is also why we change to nordic winter tyres in around November here.

Went for snowy tracks last night. Had a moon and clear sky last night which makes it even more beautiful in the forest.

It was time to swap the Falken Wildpeak A/TW3A's on 18" Sport wheels to my 16" studded winter tyres. We got 10 cm's of snow this week and it's now -10 celsius here in Finland.

I replaced both sides on my 2004 Sport, drivers side was badly corroded. Only difficult part was to separate the rear aluminium bushing from the arm. No way I could have done it keeping the rear bushing bolted to car. If I'd do it again now, I'd probably get new bushings, just in case the old...

I've read somewhere that in a pressurized system using a proper coolant/water mix the boiling point could somewhere around 150C.

My 2004 TD4 FL1 has been running on the cool side all the time I have had it, due to the sticking termostat. Haven't have motivation to change the oem thermostat or doing the inline termostat mod either. Car has FBH and cabin heat has been ok, not spectacular. It's winter here in Finland again...

That's a long road, but you have learned new skills. A lot like myself, no mechanic education or background, I just started doing things some 15 years ago with old cars. Got myself a Kemppi mig couple of years ago and learned welding.

The two carrier bearings that hold the VCU in the middle of the car could be one possible reason. Try to lift up under the propshafts, is there play in the bearings?

SRS light on my D2. This time it wasn't the connectors under the front seats. Nanocom told about permanent error in drivers airbag. So I removed the airbag and opened all the wiring connections, gave them a spray with electrical connection cleaner and put everything back. SRS fault cleared.

I bought it from a hardware store in Finland but those can be found from ebay, like the one andyfreelandy posted.

Turbo vacuum pipe. This was actually a good point in this video: Checked mine and the fabric around the pipe has lot's of tears in multiple points - it has done it's job. Turbo works as it should be so the pipe itself is propably fine still. Could be a good idea to replace the pipe sometime. I...

If I just think about looks externally - the original design, pre facelift, looks cleaner. But overall, including interior and functionality I prefer the facelifted Hippo.

I got the spanner at around 19:00 position and then added the extension bar. Aircon belt was cracked all around. The long one didn't have any cracks at all. But now I know the age of those belts.

Uups, a double post..

Belts changed. Bought 15/16" spanner and grinded it flat. I also have this spanner extension bar which gave me enough leverage to do this job alone. Didn't drop the sump guard or anything else, just took the wheel off.

I'd happily buy the commercial version of Jimny. My FL1 TD4 is the same - two seater, a small van basically. Jimny is what Land Rovers were in history before this luxury thing came a trend. But sure, there are more refined options, if that is what you want.

I really like the new Suzuki Jimny. Yes, it's small but if you don't have kids, it's plenty of room. It's a classic already so the value won't drop that much even if you buy it new.

Thanks! Went with Gates belts instead because they had the oem part numbers, which Meyle didn't have. Don't want to end finding out I have wrong belts after I have dissambled everything..

Was thinking to change both aircon & auxiliary belts to my 2004 TD4 during the summer holidays. Started looking for replacements, would these Meyle parts be the right ones? Meyle 050 005 0875 (Aircon) Meyle 050 005 2030 (Auxiliary)

Tested my new summer AT tyre setup in wonderful early summer weather. Like the sidewall protection of 55 profile tyre with these oem sport wheels.