So with exhaust leaking while pump is running the diaphragm almost certainly needs doing. It was probably that failing that killed the old pump. Valve block has to come out to do it as the valve sits between the blocks highlighted below. The solenoid is the one top left in that picture, and...

Roll on P21 . . . . :handbag:

+1 on check for white powder - if there is the dryer is breaking down & either needs replacing, or new dessicant. Diaphragm leaking could be either dryer powder preventing it from closing, or a split in the diaphragm. Full valve block rebuild is often a good idea, but without taking it apart...

I'm sure it will boil for a while yet !!

No that's the compressor inlet filter. The exhaust silencer (not filter - my bad) is at the back of the block. It just unscrews by hand.

Take the little exhaust filter out & check if there's air from the port while pump is running. If there is, then the diaphragm valve is leaking. That valve is on the same 12V that the pump uses, so it should engage together with the pump power. It's all in the System Info Doc (see technical...

Clearly you are rather over sensitive to anything contrary to what you think you know. Most of the comments early in this thread were why it might not be a good idea. You took them as direct critisim rather than answer in a technical manner, i.e. anything on either forum that doesn't agree...

:handbag:

If it went down one of the oil returns, chances are it's in the sump ? From that angle, my bet would be it bounced on chassis or drive shafts & is lodged or stuck to an oily bit below. If it hit the ground it could have bounced anywhere (been there done that & found the nut after scrabbling...

Cycle the ignition a few times without starting. On mine I can usually hear the motors moving after a while. The docs say it self- calibrates every X hundred uses, but who knows what the real number is !!

:handbag::dance:

yes but not my cars, someone else can be the % This is project P38 since getting it on the road. Previous MOT was 2014 before I bought it !!

Last year I put vacuum on my Blue P38 AC system, but didn't get round to having it gassed. Re-checked to day & it still has full vacuum, so hopefully gonna get it done this week. Green P38 AC is nice & cold, so that one is getting used mostly. While I was outside, I puts some exta R134 in...

The other next steps is a banch test like this: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/97-p38-gems-eas-issue-which-seems-to-have-expanded.387706/post-5576496

GEMS has an additional cover plate, but I think the 1999 onwards it's part of the sump on Thor engine ? Not sure about diseasel though. The bell housing inspection plate should be enough to see the flex plate on all types ?

Yes you can just fit one scrader valve in place of the compressor, but you will also need to activate the diaphragm valve to fill the tank. This also assumes there are no other leaks. The problem with this approach is the tank will get emptied while driving as the system adjusts. Hence...

My local MOT guy will do a dummy MOT test for the standard fee. That way I can fix it before the real test & avoid fails or advisories.

You were the one saying to were offended !! Most of us just want you to go ahead and do it & report the outcome after the trip.

+1 it's all described in RAVE, but that doesn't detail the ECU strategy. Only how valve-4 works & the stages.

If the pump is not refurbished yet, just put the valves on the four airlines that go to the airbags. Tyre pump might do it, but most are only good for 35-40psi. The airbags need about 50-60psi for standard height. Once the airbags & pump are sorted, just get the system running & clear...