then you should learn first how these things work cos TC acts in axle pairs too not just on one wheel so if the props are locked while for example a rear left and a front right whell are spinning the TC would try to equalise on each axle first then on both but the locked props will force things...

re-connect??? so it was once connected then disconnected by the PO??? 2001 modell might not have the "hardware" for that, are you sure you have what to "re-connect"? if the TB has the diff-lock spigot and working with a a spanner you are the only man who can decide how to actuate it important is...

As long as you didnt cut the cdl input wire to the slabs like some smart guys say you should nothing bad can happen cos the TC will be inghibited to not work against the locked diff with the early ECU.. as about i have no other comment though i'd like to see the arguments of some who say it...

Hi, it needs programming to set it exactly to your vehicle's equipment unless it was removed from a 100% similar modell like your's which is quite unlikely and i doubt you can be sure of that

then fix the diff-lock switch or it's circuit as to make the warning to work cos even if you fit a mechanical linkage you can't be sure the diff is locked or unlocked unill the warning shows it's on or off, plenty of info about that...

I must insist for the last time to measure the battery voltage WHILE CRANKING, the fact that the battery is new is irrelevant if there is a draw while cranking for some reason and the voltage drops more than 2V it will not start

Yes, after the orings were changed it's a good practice to check the oil level and smell in the first days after each drive

You are not supposed to push the throttle once it fired up untill it didnt idle a bit on it's own and if it started once and ran no matter how never touch the throttle without engine already running cos you flood the engine, insisting to start it without knowing a corect procedure can prolonge...

"OEM" means nothing these days, it's just a marketing scam for various aftermarket parts, if you can't afford genuine LR(which are actually green) then buy branded ones like Viton, a friend of mine fitted some so called OEMs and they leaked straight away

If you mean the method with the EGR actuator connected to the diff lock spigot on the transfer box which locks the central diff i'd ask why would you remove that if it works cos it's a good mod, all you can do is to replace it with a dedicated diff-lock linkage which is expensive... if it's...

was that while cranking? ...cos that's the only relevant reading... also dont try to crank it when you try to bump start it

Just seen this it must get above 250 rpm to start, see the battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 10.5V it will hardly start cos it needs more to open the injectors it's in the "Outputs" menu last line... better read the user guides available here...

Yes it can cos once you started it and removed the jump leads the battery voltage can drop below 10V which mixes up the ECU, injectors and sensor readings, the more the voltage drops the worst the engine will run untill it stops not working how? it doesnt react at all when you plug it in or...

Hi, contact THIS GUY

No it won't, the fuel cooler gets flow direcly from the bottom of the radiator, the return from the matrix goes into a T piece at the end of the cooler where it meets the outlet flow of the cooler when the thermostat in that piece is open cos when it's cold outside there is no flow through that...

I double checked the coolant flow diagram and i am convinced now that you can simply stop the flow toward the matrix from the top hose with a simple mechanical valve without affecting the engine's cooling nor the fuel cooler's function, cut the pipe in the area pointed with red and insert...

Hi, if the TPS live readings are as they should in the ECM inputs(track 1= 0.5-0.8V at idle/4.5- 4.2V at full throttle and track 2 = supply - track 1 all the time) while TPS inputs are wrong in the ABS i doubt that changing the fuel map will help at all cos the problem is with the ECM or ABS...

Only the pedal braking will work this way but without power bleeding the modulator once it was empty of fluid will affect the correct function of all the active braking modes(ABS, TC, EBD, HDC) cos air will be trapped between the OV's circuits, pump, shuttle valves and the expansion chambers cos...

Yes, you can for test just the ride heights might be a bit different but if you connect it and the compressor will not run like with the original you know that's it. If nothing changes you should swap the fusebox... what ever you swap disconnect tne battery's negative lead first and reconnect it...

Hi, which fuse exactly? No, at this point the first suspect is the fusebox or in the worst case the SLABS ECU unless it's a wiring issue somewhere and that coud be a nightmare.