I guess if ALL the wiring loom is there then its is a goer, replacement screen, hvac, relays. But if not, you could use a stand alone hws kit like you can get for defenders or make one up. Spare blank on the top consul might be suitable for the switch. I'd check under the plenum for the two feed...

I've done that on the 110 and the 38 with no oil loss, couple of drips clinging to the shaft at worst, a rag on the floor and another to wipe the shaft as you withdraw it if your drive is nice.

I think nano can read boost?

Had an epic oil change day. Engine, autobox, transfer box and both diffs.

A tapered drift would likely pull that straight. On my 110 (same set up really) I knocked the drift in from the opposite side to where the bolt goes in, once it was lined up the drift protruded to far through for me to get the bolt in, I carefully removed the drift but it shifted slightly again...

I did one at a time on the 110 but it still rotated a bit. A jack under the diff nose and a long tapered drift through the remaining bolt holes pulled it straight .it was a faff though and I've got a pit too, lying on your back would be a pita I should imagine.

What he said. Not on a 38 but a 110, I had to jack the nose of the diff up, which rotates it, a bit to get the trailing arms lined up.

This is the resistance reading I got on a brand new no4 injector.

Durty perv. :vb-eyebrows:

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/info-repairing-window-switchpack-switches.187593/

My 110 csw has one.

Read the owners hand book. There's a bit of a knack using the key/screwdriver to get it to engage.

You can fit the later over centre type spring, can't remember if you need to change the pedal as well. Another option is a servo which is more involved. Oh, and welcome, best put your questions in the 90/110 forum.

People who run veg or bio use it to aid starting in winter, called mis fuel in those circles. I would have it but I don't know where you are, otherwise list it as miss fuel on market place or some such site and a vegger might be near? I've used up to 10% petrol in my 200tdi in the past but 5%...

It stays on until fitted.

No, the spring movement of the ign switch would trigger the relay. You don't need or have a timer at the moment. Timers we're just a modern convenience like auto chokes, electric handbrakes and other unnecessary stuff.

The resister I mentioned is on the bulkhead engine side, nothing to see behind the clocks other than the thick cable direct from the ign switch which can go straight to the first glow plug, number 4 cylinder. That cable, for the original engine, would have gone to that resister on one side then...

Does the thick brown cable from the ign switch go to a resister on the bulkhead? It's a curly spring looking thing in a bracket, cable from that goes onto the glows. That thing isn't needed for a 200tdi just for earlier diesels. That 'might' be bringing down the voltage as I believe the glows on...

Britpart glowplugs are generally rubbish. You will get a voltage drop when all glowplugs are operating but does it start OK now? I let them glow for around 10 to 15 secs when it's frosty but that's with bosch glows.

M8 they are.