I have a clarke 150te and it does ally welding

The timing pointer on the injection pump are set to the individual engine to take up wear in the chain so not all the same, assuming nuts tight timing shouldn’t have moved unless it’s jumped a tooth perhaps. agree as shedload says check fuel and air first Sometimes the pick up pipe can pull up...

That’s a series 3 box but most likely 2a as it has the clutch slave housing on the LHS, the S means synchro on all 4 gears, if you’re keen to work on it, then best clean outside, strip , clean inside, inspect for wear, order bits you need then rebuild, they strip down quite quickly and not too...

Was there any white smoke when you limped home, head gasket? maybe a timing check, did it rev ok when driving or stationary

the pic looks ok apart from the wire colours the two thin ones go to the bulb, and a fat Brown/red supplies the 12v on yours it looks black when you turn key to heat i would expect to see 12v on the black dropping to 6-7volts on the red , you can see on diagram below if there is a break in...

Maybe post a pic of what the connections you have on the ballast resistor and how your wiring the plugs , have you got a multimeter

When testing them they don’t earth through the body as parallel ones do , have you tested them again as per pic above

I thought you would have been in there quicker 😀

The ballast resistor should lower the voltage from 12v to a lot less maybe 6-7 volts , the 6v heater plug bulb only needs an earth and that 6v to glow , each subsequent plug gets a lower voltage then the one near front needs to be earthed They need to be wired carefully so you don’t short them...

https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/blogs/news/article-200tdienginerebuild This might be useful in the rebuild, mine has the hole too

If you have any paint left the grille might look better in black too IMHO

I really need to update this with my Di, Top speed will be limited by revs unless you change the gearing https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/slow-diesel-road-test.339938/

Have a read here I’m happy with it easier starting, doesn’t leave puddles of oil and it’s a tough engine that’s easy to work on https://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm

As you didn’t mention the 200di, here it is, I also didn’t want to go to radical and keep it a simple swap My swap keeps battery and oil bath filter under bonnet uses same engine mountings, gearbox, exhaust without the extras of oil cooler and turbo leaving lots of access still under bonnet

Nice one, they do rust quite quickly, I wish I’d put some wax oil or similar on mine just after I fitted them, good when you don’t bounce out of seats going over road ramps

The lever is fixed(ish) as I recall below the bracket with round hole in and allows the leverage movement reqd to move transfer shaft in and out This pic shows it, bogoing sketch post 11

I don’t f recognise it , nearest I could find is here, but how did you hear that drop it’s tiny

Nice one, that angle on the hanger looks more like mine now, be interesting to see if there was a broken one among the leaves We’re the springs labelled so you could put the correct side on

Hate to think what mpg it gets , wouldn’t want to get stuck behind it in my series 200di😀

It may be that the shoulder on the coupling bolt keeps some clearance when locknut tightened up, obviously it needs to swivel around without too much play, you need to ensure the coupling is engaged properly with both selector pins when you reassemble, im not even sure if it would go back...