Green car into workshop, had a bit of an electric drive around on starter first as most of it will go in the scrap bin!! All bits in better condition than donor engine swapped over; pcv, fuel return hose, broken clips etc. All top disconnections made. Started underneath, all bolts soaked and...

Wear goggles !!

Just revisiting this idea. To accommodate the comments made, proposing Saturday 13th September. Again, if there are enough 👍then I will do some planning.

Engine cleaned up. Broken IRD off. Replaced clutch. Replaced vacuum hoses and starter motor contacts. Parked up on trolley waiting for IRD from failed engine then ready to go in. Have to strip out failed engine and box first !!

It's just this is your 4th post with the same problem. Makes it really difficult to see what responses you have had and what has been advised and tried. Remove duplicate posts, post results of tests and you'll find this is one of the best forums there is. Help yourself and keep it simple and...

Another one !!

It's out of the donor car. So about 3 hours to drain fluids and do all the top disconnections (that is disconnect not cut or chop !). And about another 3 hours to drop the front subframe, remove driveshafts and drop assembly out using an engine crane and trolley underneath then lift body off...

I posted this a while ago, but can't find it now. This is the way I remove glowplugs and have recently done 2 engines with 7 out of 8 being successful! The last one came out fine with the torque wrench approach and unscrewed leaving the tip of the plug stuck in the head. The electrode came...

Back onto this one again now. Donor car is on the ramp, warmed up and drained all fluids. Removed all failed glowplugs. One left a tip in the engine. Will add how I got that out in the glowplug thread. All disconnections made on top and all bolts sprayed with penetrative oil underneath ready...

OK. Might have been worth mentioning your location for best results !!

Where abouts are you?? Details not on your profile. What is wrong with engine?? As above, delete your phone number and place ad in wanted.

Good report 10/10 for the TD4 Sport Auto. Never missed a beat. 1650 miles. Overall average 34.6 mpg. That included a week on Mull in 3rd and 4th gear. Motorway runs averaged 36.5 mpg at a steady 70mph over 450 miles. Took a bag of spares, lp fuel pump, aux belt, tools etc but nothing required...

If you JUST want to open tailgate window and, as above, don't want any other functions to work, wiper, washer, glass to drop to allow door to open, window calibration for correct operation, then simply apply 12 v to pins 3 and 6 of the window motor and reverse the polarity to close it again...

it is possible that the device could be over boosting the engine and it will limit to prevent damage. Depends how it works. Purely increasing fuel pressure may not be detectable but if it generates more boost to turbo then it may limit the engine and show engine light. If not, another thing to...

Cam sensor is my best guess from what I read. Doesn't always generate a fault code so beware. Freezer test is easy and worthwhile.

No the 'in gear' bit is not correct. The four wheels are connected together by differentials IRD and propshaft. The gearbox connects the engine to the whole lot. One wheel up passes all the torque through the rear diff then the VCU and ends with a stop as the front wheels are on the ground...

Does the engine run? As above, the disc by your finger is loose to turn. It acts as a spacer to allow clamp to pull tight. If they are wet when removed they may be stuck open or some other reason for overfuelling but let us know if it runs first and why removing them.

Probably this... https://ebay.us/m/c2jj6U

They have contacts on the elbow bit that break. Not sure why they are made with a contact rather than a continuous strip? Someone knows. JLR ?!?!?

Sounds like the bulb holder see my post above. Swap it for other side and if that solves it then simple and cheap to replace.