:5biagree:The mention of air suspension seems to start people quivering with fear, but as Wammers says it's relatively simple to understand and work on, with just a little thought, common sense, and a dash of mechanical ability. There's plenty of info available and with a laptop/cable/EASunlock...

I ran with the Terrafirma's on the front and OEM's on the rear for a few weeks before I got round to changing the rears too, and the front was definately more stable than the rear!

Hi Rasheed, I reckon they're better on and off road. On road there's more stability, particularly noticable at standard height, less roll through the corners, and better turn in. Off road the wheels appear to maintain better contact with the ground and there's a bit more articulation thanks to...

If you search you'll find at least one positive review of Terrafirma's for P38's on here cause I wrote it. I've had them on the car about 12 months and I like them, they're certainly better than the OEM ones. Coupled with some Arnott Gen 2 bags it's like driving a different car. The other...

Finally got my heater o-rings replaced and heater back in service, without the bypass. So far so good, extended road test revealed no leaks and heat where there should be, although it looks like the distribution blend motor is either stuck or knackered, but that's a job for tomorrow.

I would say there are far to many variables to make any kind of generalisation. LR's new larger capacity TDV8 is more economical than the smaller one it replaced!

The viscous fan nut is always a pain, plenty of copperslip when you put it back together should make it marginally easier next time. Once it's off (and the rad hoses) you can withdraw the fan and cowl together. Protect the rad with a piece of hardboard and you should be able to get the stat with...

Mine does something similar too, although not all the way up to extended height, always after returning to standard height after cruising. As far as I can gather extended mode is triggered by a combination of extreme height sensor readings and loss of traction at one or more wheels, which it...

LOL. I'm not suggesting some sort of elitist thing, just seems to me quite a number of people still haven't got the hang of it after only 100 posts, of course there are also those that do. Even doubling it to 200 would give members a bit more time to get to grips with the distinctly unique...

Is it just me or are far too many supposed 'senior' members (those only just over the quota) creating thread wars over misunderstandings, bruised ego's and totally missing the spirit of LZ? Maybe it's time the senior member post quota was raised so they have more time to learn the ropes and...

:pop2::rolleyes:

As do the RAC and AA if I recall. They certainly used to recommend not showing your papers at the roadside even if you do have them on you, and to leave it to present them at your local station.

Started heater o-ring replacement having got fed up with more ice inside car than outside, and having a doris who won't even get in it till it's done! So far so good using the rangerover.net shortcut method, panels out, access holes cut etc. and temp sensor replaced. Now just the dammed o-rings...

Or you could try this one which is also mentioned in several threads... http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual-tyre-size-calculator

I used em for replacement bolts for rear shocks, arrived ok, but ****part and not to original spec. Instead of having smooth section through bush had thread, maybe the idea is to knacker bushes so you need new shocks too??

The thermal cutouts are only about £2.20 each, if bought in volume, but difficult to find singlely and you'll pay significantly more, I found. I got my Gen 2's from them too, as Datatek says, helpful and speedy, and yes ebay price was cheaper than direct via their website.

If you're using the smoothrite on steel, I've had excellent and as yet uncorroded results (nearly 20 years) using finnagans own 'rustbeater' primer underneath.

it does sound like belt slipped a little to start with whilst engine was running, then shifted a lot when it was turned off, due to dissimilar momentum between top and bottom of engine, hence it now won't start.

Has it always done it, or is this a new thing? Many of the faults people have experienced have been related to EFI causing the cars electronics to remain awake, rather than going into standby as they should. Is there a new transmitter of any kind nearby, cell tower, traffic or other telemetry...

If you describe the symptoms and what you've tried already you might get some suggestions at a fix, many people have suffered from this....